China

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As we complete our 6,854 nautical mile trip from Sydney, Australia (with a total of 10,000 miles from Auckland, New Zealand) we prepare for disembarkation at Tianjin, China, the seaport gateway to this large nation's capital – Beijing. Packing and saying goodbye to both staff and guests we've shared many experiences with on SS Voyager we are faced with packing for a side trip of two days in Xi'an of the total of five days in China. It's amazing to see how the crew works together to simultaneously disembark 270 people and their belongings, embark a like number on board for the next segment and facilitate several hundred ashore for single or multiple day excursions. After our last sumptuous breakfast aboard, a bus trip of 2 ½ hours brings us from the ship to the heart of the capital's 19 million people. Our guide Jessica (her adopted English name) turns out to be the best we've experienced with an amazing command of our language and its nuances plus a terrific sense of humor. Through her descriptions and background explanations during the next few days, she shares her love of her country, with all its foibles, and some wonderful insights into understanding the inscrutable Asians.
After a typical Chinese multiple serving lunch at the fancy Capital Garden Restaurant and Refreshment Club (where we saw friends Marcia and Doug Rector from our South American cruise) we began our tour in China's self proclaimed center – Tian'anmen Square, the largest public square in the world. It was Mao's belief that China needed a gathering place after visiting Russia's Red Square and flattened government offices to create the square. As we traverse this formidably large area bordered by Mao's memorial tomb, government offices and the Forbidden City of past dynasties, we note the presence of plain clothes police and uniformed guards. While they don't restrict movements by us and the many Chinese national sightseers one can understand their concerns because of past incidents at this very important piece of real estate. We do have bag screenings upon entering the square and the Forbidden City but this is no different than the daily concerns in our capital city or boarding an aircraft.
The emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties occupied this 250 acre complex of pavilions, halls, courtyards and gates showcasing some of the most important treasures of China's imperial past. It. survives because, unlike previous conquerors, these dynasties kept the complex to preserve the face of leadership the people had known for centuries. Mao did the same thing but turned the complex into a museum vs the leaders' residence. Our overnight accommodation is the sumptuous Regent Beijing with wonderful (but expensive) meals and a view of the heart of the city.
After a breakfast offering of western and oriental foods we board a China East flight to Xi'an and a visit to the Terracotta Warriors Archeological Museum. First excavated in 1974 after being discovered by farmers drilling a well, the 7,000 life size clay warriors and horses are acclaimed as the “eighth wonder of the world”. The warriors are grouped in battle order, rank by rank, some mounted on horse-drawn chariots and others in infantry groups originally armed with spears, swords and crossbows. Each figure was individually created with unique characteristics including the representation of senior officers, archers, lancers, etc.
Xi'an in the Shaanxi Province was the political heart of China until the 10th century when it moved east to Beijing (more about that city later on). The Han, Sui and Tang dynasties were based at this terminus of the Silk Road. China's first unifying ruler Qin Shi Huang caused these fired clay figures to be created over a decade to provide (archeologists believe) a protective army for the emperor in death. After his death, one of the marauding band of armed men discovered these buried figurines and trashed them. Today's archeologists are painstakingly reconstructing the “army” and are working in several buildings, created by putting roofs over the dig sites. The largest is Pit #1, an aircraft hanger sized building housing 6,000 “warriors”, many of which have been carefully restored. As you walk around this display you marvel at the skill of their creators 2000 years ago. Our evening entertainment is a dinner show highlighting traditional dance and music played by young women musicians on ancient instruments. The very colorful costumes depict styles during the various dynasties.
The next day we visit the Xi'an City Wall, originally built during the Tang Dynasty when the city, then called Chang'an, was the capital of China. It is the only city wall existent in China today and was constructed with a tower on each side capable of coordinating this 9 mile long defense rampart. We climb the 77 steps to the wall's top to marvel at its restored completeness and views of the city. The Shaanxi Provincial Museum depicts the many ancestral cultures here with fascinating artifacts. We also visit a small but impressive museum maintained by an art school where we get a lesson in Asian calligraphy from an impressively knowledgeable guide/teacher before we eat at a “dumpling” restaurant.
During our travels in this city of millions we learn what bad traffic really looks like. With seemingly no coordination or rules it's the supreme game of “chicken” between small and large vehicles alike. We also see more creative ways to pile things on a bicycle, motorized or pedaled. We're told that in the last 20 years all the bicycles that used to dominate China's urban travels have been replaced with cars and motorbikes. Of course the parking is: “wherever you can” including sidewalks. It makes Boston traffic look like a walk in the park.
We've learned that housing is a much sought after commodity with the state building mass high rises ala urban renewal in the states. Even when you build your own house the land still belongs to the state although recently the laws have been changed to allow the homeowner to own his own land for 70 years. After tearing down the old single story family “compounds” of ancient years they're now preserving what's left. We learned boy babies are sought after since a girl joins the husband's family household to do the chores and take care of the elderly. Clothing and other costs of living are high here, probably because of taxes hidden in the prices.
The next day we return to Beijing for our obligatory visit to the Great Wall at Badaling, originally constructed over 2000 years ago and restored in the last 40 years after suffering the ravages of men and the elements. Escaping the crowds on the more level portion, Mary and I climb in the opposite, and almost vertical, direction, earning our t-shirt. Our lunch is in the rear of an exquisite jade jewelry store. The previous evening we got a chance to use our plastic on silk items in another store run by the state. Our last night in Beijing we enjoy a sumptuous Peking Duck multi course dinner at another fancy hotel.
Departing China the next day our United flight leaves ahead of schedule and, with connections, arrives in Florida ½ hour early. Our limo driver greets us as does Cappy on our return to the warm and friendly atmosphere of home. We look back on 53 days of eating, drinking, sightseeing and learning with a feeling of pleasure while understanding that Americans are very lucky people.

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