#67 Teaching at Taizhou College, China (Beijing - The Marco Polo Bridge)


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Published: January 13th 2007
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The Marco Polo Bridge, (Lugou Qiao)The Marco Polo Bridge, (Lugou Qiao)The Marco Polo Bridge, (Lugou Qiao)

It was an honor, stepping on its marble stones, that have seen over 800 years of Chinese history. In 1937, the bloody battle against the Japanese invaders marked the beginning of a brutal conflict, forever edged in the heart of every Chinese.
Some ten miles from Beijing's city center stands the "Lugou Qiao", also known as the "Marco Polo Bridge", named after the famed traveller, who enthusiastically described this enduring, 11-arched bridge in his famous book, "The Travels".

The historic significance of this 820 year old bridge is close to the heart of every Chinese, not only for its beauty of the marble-stone construction dating to the Jin Dynasty of 1189, but also for the bloody battles of 1937 between the Japanese Imperial Army and the Nationalist Chinese Soldiers, leading to the Japanese occupation of Beijing, followed by a full-scale war.

The pain and the suffering of the Chinese people in the hands of the Japanese is never to be forgotten, much less forgiven. The conflict and the bloody atrocities remain today as one of the great divides between the two nations. It has been the topic of many of my conversations, from party members to bus-drivers as well as with teachers and students. These talks have always been painfully, if not angrily initiated by them, and usually begin with the question: "What do you think of the Japanese?"

Only two months ago, "Japanese and Chinese Relations" was the theme
Each lion is carved with a slightly different appearance.Each lion is carved with a slightly different appearance.Each lion is carved with a slightly different appearance.

Over 400 uniquely carved stone lions decorate each balustrade along the length of the bridge on both sides.
of a seminar given at our college, to which I was invited. The ferver with which the destain for the Japanese was presented, and is still expressed daily around me, leaves no doubt in my mind, that the wounds of that sorrowful conflict will take many more decades and perhaps centuries to heal.

The cost of human lifes and the cruel suffering of the Chinese population will always be deeply impregnated in their hearts, and will be remembered with great reverence by each of China's successive generation. The population is reminded of that part of its history through daily doses of TV war-movies and in the on-going education of the young.

Japan's reluctance to admit and apologize for the misery it had caused during its occupation does nothing to ease the deeply felt antagonism and pain entrenched in the soul of every Chinese.

The solid-marble Marco Polo Bridge spans the Yongding River at the town of Wanping in the Feng Tai District, and spans some 876 fascinating feet. Most visitors traverse it somberly as if pilgrims, in quiet contemplation, reminding each other not only of history's tragedy, but also of the uniqueness and beauty of the bridge.
A dry river-bedA dry river-bedA dry river-bed

The bridge now spans a river, that has dissapeared.


Both ends of the bridge are graced by "stelae", huge stone-blocks recording history for posterity. These stelae are inscribed with the poetry of two Qing Emperors.

Other beautiful monuments, park areas, and historical reminders surround the bridge entrance, and invite further exploration before entering the fortress-wall of the city of Wanping, once used as a garrison-quarter for the Japanese occupation forces.

The balustrades along the length of the marble bridge are decorated by over 400 hand-carved stone lions, each one slightly different in appearance and each a pleasing work of art. Legends tell, that these fierce-looking carvings come to live during the night as guardians of this marvelous construction.

Much of the bridge is still in its original form, and the unusual width provides ample room for the visitor to linger and ponder one of China's special memorials. Though never constructed or intended as a monument to China's martyrs, the sounds of pain and sorrow and sacrifice of brave men and women linger upon every stone of the Marco Polo Bridge.















Additional photos below
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It would take hours to admire each of the lions.It would take hours to admire each of the lions.
It would take hours to admire each of the lions.

400 lions now guard a "river of green grass" below.
Lion with cubLion with cub
Lion with cub

The female lion seemingly restraints her cub from danger.
Mother and cubMother and cub
Mother and cub

This lion cub snuggles close to the warmth of its mother.
Arthur reflects on the bridgeArthur reflects on the bridge
Arthur reflects on the bridge

With the gate and walls of Wanping in the distance, Arthur poses proudly on the Marco Polo bridge, which holds special significance for every Chinese.
StelaeStelae
Stelae

Each stelae is inscribed with a poem by a Qing Emperor (Kangxi and Qianlong). They are located on the ends of the bridge.
How to construct a bridge 800 years ago.How to construct a bridge 800 years ago.
How to construct a bridge 800 years ago.

Surrounding monuments document the construction of the Marco Polo Bridge under the Jin Dynasty in 1189.
This was not work for the weak.This was not work for the weak.
This was not work for the weak.

Life-size representation of laborers show how each stone was put in place over 800 years ago.
The transport-cart is waiting.The transport-cart is waiting.
The transport-cart is waiting.

Masons make ready each marble-stone for transport.
Ancient Taxi...Ancient Taxi...
Ancient Taxi...

... providing more "comfortable" transport for the wealthy. These too were usually pulled by beasts of burden.
As a laborer returns home, ...As a laborer returns home, ...
As a laborer returns home, ...

... he is joyfully greated by his family.
Another monument surrounding the bridge shows the return of a caravan of camels from their grueling trip...Another monument surrounding the bridge shows the return of a caravan of camels from their grueling trip...
Another monument surrounding the bridge shows the return of a caravan of camels from their grueling trip...

... along the Great Silk Road, bringing with them exotic goods from foreign lands.
Inside WanpingInside Wanping
Inside Wanping

The fortified town of Wanping, situated in front of the bridge, was used as a garrison by the Japanese during their occupation of China in W.W.II
RestorationRestoration
Restoration

In preparation for the 2008 Beijing Olympics, many of the buildings in the town of Wanping are under re-construction.
The walls of WanpingThe walls of Wanping
The walls of Wanping

Completely surrounded by fortress-walls, the town was used by the Japanese invaders as a headquarter.
Stories on stoneStories on stone
Stories on stone

Boldly shaped granite stones surround the walls, now guarding the town of Wanping. They are inscribed with the history of the battles and its martyrs.
War MemorialWar Memorial
War Memorial

It is dedicated to the thousands of Chinese, who gave their lifes for their country against the Japanese. Many of my Chinese friends have expressed repeatedly their gratitude for the help from the Americans.


13th January 2007

I love your picture in the Marco Polo bridge! You look very nice! I can't wait till you come visit us!MARU
13th January 2007

Wow
That is amazing Herr Schneider. I'm hoping to eventually grow to be as well traveled as you one day. On a side note, I heard that you are returning sometime soon to visit us. Any idea when this is happening?
16th January 2007

All the pictures you show us fill me with envy! I now haaaaaave to visit china some day and see all the beautiful history and memorials. All i can say is WOWZA. Its all so beautiful! **Green with envy** Can't wait to see you...
23rd January 2007

you have no idea how much i miss you teaching german.. Rumor has it your coming to miami? hmm? will you making a stop by german period 4? :) please visit. i miss you so much
24th January 2007

WHERE ARE YOU?????
schneider, it's the end of the month... where the hell are you???
25th January 2007

I've been following the journal quite silently for a while now, and my silence is a proof of my astonishment to see and read Schneider's journeys.. in any case, can anybody provide me with Schneider's email? thx a lot fellows, hope you're all having an amazing time, as well as you Herr Schneider.

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