Trouble on the Road to Kratie and then the river pirates

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8th April 2009

Our mini-bus arrived to pick us up at the guest house at 7:00am to take us to the bus station. As we’ve come to expect our bus was old and foul and we had a 9hr journey ahead of us. The plan was, and what we thought we’d paid for, was a bus to Kompang Cham to then be met by a mini-bus that would take us the rest of the way to Kratie; you’d think this would be simple wouldn’t you?

We made several brief stops along the way, mostly for toilet breaks and the occasional quick coffee. Pili and I ate the tuna baguettes that I prepared for us at the back of the coach. The whole journey to Kompang Cham was hot, cramped and boring. On this type of trip I try to distract myself from the heat and the ever present annoyance of the loud Asian music or cheap kung fu movies playing in a loop all controlled by the driver. My usual method of escapism is to bird watch through the window as we cross country. I soon realised that the countryside is void of wildlife. In over 9hrs passing endless paddy fields, scrub forest and waterways, plus the endless miles of telephone wires I saw only four individual birds, three common Myna Birds and a Cattle Egret. At the rest stops there was always a few Sparrows knocking about but that was about it for my wildlife count.

In all the market places and gas stations along the way, there was a cornucopia of local delicacies on offer, large, black fried spiders and beetles, and various meat on sticks - god knows what it was, I hate to think. In the last few days I’ve been offered dog and cat several times, of course I’ve politely declined much to the bewilderment of the locals. But the thing that drove me almost to despair was the small cages crammed with local finches, sparrows and even swallows. These birds aren’t usually bought as pets but as food. The only reason I didn’t purchase all of them and set them free is, apart from blowing our cash, it would only encourage the traders to go and catch more. If it moves they eat it and consequently they have all but emptied the country of its fauna; it makes my heart break and future generations are going to ask why was this allowed to happen.

At approx 1:30pm we arrived sweaty and exhausted at Kompang Cham, we heaved our bags onto our backs and then started to enquire where we were to meet our next bus. We soon realised that the bus had long gone and that we were either stranded or we would have to catch the next bus that was scheduled to leave in the morning!!!! Of course we were met by a dozen or so taxi drivers who wanted to help us out by offering their services for massively inflated fares. I replied with my middle finger and a sarcastic laugh, they all got the message. I did manage to befriend one helpful driver who seemed genuinely embarrassed the way the tourists were being exploited. He offered to take me on his bike to use the phone to call the booking office. I was very wary of leaving Pili but she was with two other guys we’d meet who were in the same predicament as us. The guy was true to his word and took me to a phone where I could call the office. When I did get through the woman on the other end of the phone was less than helpful and she kept relaying what I was saying to her colleges in the background, I couldn’t believe it, they were laughing openly at me. I gave her a real piece of my mind and slammed the phone down. The driver bless him was very embarrassed and kept apologising for the way we were being treated, he suggested that I might be able to stop a local in a van or truck and get a lift for a few dollars. I thanked him but in truth I had already realised this was the only option I had if I didn’t want Pili and I to overnight in this boil on the arse of the devil township. I was determined to get us out of here.

When I arrived back to Pili I told all the guys plying for business that I needed any transportation to Kratie TODAY and I would pay $20 for the four of us. Immediately they started running around making calls and even flagging down traffic. Within 20 minutes we were sorted, well sort of. Our chosen transport was a wreck of a ten seater mini bus; the roof was loaded with all kinds of crap including a guy who looked thoroughly sandblasted from his journey so far. Much to our horror the bus already had seventeen passengers on board; we were confidently told it would be no problem for the four of us to squeeze in. Of course we had little choice so in we squeezed. I’m still not quite sure how this was done and once wedged in along with all the other people, chickens and various bits of house hold cooking items there was no changing our minds. Our bags were tied onto the roof and off we went. The two young guys who’d been on the original coach with us were hanging out of the window to keep cool, this is when one of them looked up onto the roof to check our bags and saw the guy who’d been sat up there all along opening up the bags. We stopped the bus immediately and sure enough this local had one of the guy’s cameras. The guys volunteered to sit on top of the bus and in no uncertain terms I told the local guy to get the fuck off the roof and in the van or I would personally remove him from the vehicle. It is amazing to me that all these people apparently spoke no English but I’m sure they understood every word I said. I asked the lads who were now sat on the roof to check our bags and they said they looked all normal. Inside the bus all was silent and nobody would make eye contact with me.

At this point I began to realise I didn’t really like Cambodia and its people very much. The natives were unlike any other people we’ve met along our travels, very mercenary and cold. We found no joy in the faces of the people, just an inquisitive eye on to how they can screw you. I understand the hardship these people have suffered but compared to India’s history they dealt with relatively nothing. The Indians were always joyful and warm and they all seemed to enjoy life. I think one thing that really separate the Indians with the Cambodian people is that the Indians still have a love and respect for nature, it’s all around their lives, weaved into the fabric of their very existence. As I’ve pointed out the Cambodian people have abused and lost this connection with nature and now the only thing that inspires them is money and materialism, their souls have been taken away or they’ve sold them off to the highest bidder. We were openly laughed at when we’d point out to everyone we tried to do business with that we were the ones being exploited because of the colour of our skin. You have to expect to pay more than the locals for goods and services, maybe a 10-15% white man tax. These guys tried to hit you for a least a couple of a hundred percent mark up on everything. When you refuse and try and barter they reply with a swagger that we could afford it as we have huge wages in England and Europe. I couldn’t help myself, on several occasions I pointed out that the UK was especially in dire straights and that our inflation was way above what they had to contend with. When I informed the ones who were listening about our taxes on everything, the cost of food, housing, fuel and everything else that they could recognise they looked at me in total disbelief. I told them our country was in more individual debt than just about any other country; we are on the point of bankruptcy. I know I was wasting my time but I hate to be treated like an idiot especially by this lot of crooks. All the tourists we met had also had the same kind of experiences, we were not alone!

Back to our journey, sorry about the above waffle but these things really piss me off.
At our next toilet stop I crawled out of the side window and checked on the guys on the roof. They told me that on re-examining our bags it looked like the pockets had been opened. I hauled myself up top to check and sure enough their assumptions were correct. I lept down from the roof and banged on the window where the little bag rustler was seated. I shouted for him to get out of the van NOW!! The driver and his mate shot out and came round to me; I explained my problem and that I needed to search the guy’s bags and pockets. They pretended not to understand and tried to shove me back into the vans. I stared the biggest guy down and told him I would pull the effin doors off and drag this guy out of the bus if he didn’t volunteer a search. I also made them aware it was not a good idea to touch me again. Again incredibly they understood perfectly and made the guy get out so I could do my search. Luckily for the guy he had nothing else on him from the bags, I think we originally removed him from the roof before he could really go through everything. I asked him why he would do such a stupid thing and everybody just laughed. I told him he was very lucky I hadn't found anything because if I had he would spend the night in the ditch beside the road, miles from anywhere. The laughing stopped!

For the rest of the journey the bus was completely silent. We were both very relieved to arrive in Kratie and get showered and settled into the Oudom Sanbath hotel. We then went to the famous local bar "The Red Sun Falling" where we ate, had a couple of beers and arranged for a 6:30am start to go and visit the Irrawaddy Dolphins in the Kampi area of the Mekong River, approx thirty minutes bike ride away. This is the only reason I’d visit the place. Kratie is another cesspit on the Cambodian landscape, filthy, noisy and very inhospitable.

9th April 2009

Up at the crack of dawn and our two bikes with drivers were waiting outside the hotel. I’d more or less forgotten about the disasters of yesterday and was really excited at the chance to spend one and a half hours that I’d negotiated on the famous Mekong River photographing the small population of the Irrawaddy Dolphins, now one of the rarest mammals in the World.

The ride to the river was a great way to wake up, the wind in your face and the smells of cooking on wood fires in the air. We rode through the local villages as they were stirring and beginning their day. In India every man, woman and child would have shouted and waved good morning, not here though, all we received were cold unwelcome stares.

After twenty five minutes riding I realised we were close because of all the Dolphins carved souvenirs that were lining the streets. After purchasing our $9:00 tickets we made our way down to the river's edge and to our boat and guide. My bike driver told me that everything had been arranged and that I would receive not the normal hour but an hour and a half on the river to make sure I had all the photos I needed. We paid a little extra for this privilege because I was certain I won’t be visiting again and in all probability the poor dolphins will go extinct within a few years like their poor cousins the Yang See River Dolphin that slipped into the infinite darkness of extinction just last year.

The Irrawaddy dolphin lives in both salt and freshwater, and is found in a small handful of locations in South and Southeast Asia. There are three exclusively freshwater populations: 50-90 individuals live in a 190km-stretch of the Mekong River (Lao PDR, Cambodia); 30-50 live in a 420km-stretch of the Mahakam River (Indonesia); and about 50 live in a 370km-stretch of the Ayeyarwady River (Myanmar). In addition, very small numbers survive in the partially freshwater Songkhla Lake (Thailand) and the brackish Chilka Lake (India). The freshwater populations are all classified as Critically Endangered, as is the Songkhla Lake population.

Within a few minutes of being on the river we spotted Dolphins. Of course these animals are incredible hard to photograph as you never know where they are about to break surface. Fortunately by now I’m becoming a dabb hand at this game because this is my forth species of dolphin encountered during my travels. It was a lot of fun trying to get close enough for good shots. It’s a fine balance and I’m fully aware that it is easy to disturb these shy animals. I made sure our boat skipper didn’t chase or get too close; the work can then be left to my 400mm lens.

Pili, during the trip was in charge of the video filming and she’s done a great job so far. I think we’ll need to invest in some new cameras for her when we get back home. The morning was a great success until the skipper started to head back to shore after 50 minutes. I reminded him that we’d agreed an hour and a half. His reply was that I’d seen plenty of dolphins and had lots of pictures, if I wanted more I’d have to pay him again. Here we go again, I told him no way and to take us to shore where I had it out with the skipper and my guide/driver. Again the same attitude applied, tough luck we could afford it topped with the attitude of ‘what can you do about it anyway'; you’re westerners in the outback of Cambodia’. I was seething and I let the guide know that I held him responsible. He shouldn’t sell tours that he couldn’t guarantee. I also told him that I was prepared to take this tour for both of us for the next four mornings, now I would have to find someone else.

Well this really pissed him off and when he got back to the hotel with Pili on the back of his bike he just dumped her and shot of without even waiting for his money. My driver seemed very sorry about what had happened and apologised profusely, I gave him $4:00 instead of the agreed five because of the shortened trip and told him I would also pay his friend the same but he would have to come and collect it himself. We did see the guide several times but he never uttered another word to us so he didn’t get paid. He did moan to a westerner called Jack who was well known in the area as he’d had some kind of business set up until recently. He took it on himself to mediate and told me in a friendly fashion to forget about it a pay the guide. HA, HA I don’t do business with children and that was exactly how this guide was acting. Again I told Jack that I was happy to pay the four dollars bike fare if the guy came to me and asked for payment. Maybe an apology would also be nice for dumping Pili on the side of the road and allowing me to get ripped off by the boat guy. It didn’t happen and I’ve lost no sleep about it.

We did go out once more on the 11th April. We’d planned again to go early morning but it poured with rain and the skies were illuminated with fork lightening. We got up anyway and went the hotel bar where we had booked the trip. We sat and watched the sheet rain and had a nice breakfast, we re-scheduled the trip for 3:30pm the same day. Pili and I also had a chance to pamper a very young kitten who was impossibly cute. Pili gave him a breakfast of cut up cheese omelette which he gulped down and then curled up purring on Pili’s lap and fell into a deep sleep that only cats seem to do. I hope this little fella doesn't end up in the pot at some point, I don’t fancy his chances much if I’m honest.

The afternoon Dolphins trip went perfect and I got all the photos I needed. We did get stopped at an armed police road block, they were searching for weapons and smuggled animals. They checked the luggage compartments in the bikes and let us through. We spent the rest of the day walking along the river side and in the evening had a few beers and an average meal of chicken noodles. Tomorrow we’d be leaving this god forsaken place and are heading for the capital Phnom Penh.

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