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Published: July 28th 2006
Our pre-Cambodia reading notes that "Cambodia, is like your always tripping". Words that will become a footnote for our time here.
The first noticeable difference is that compared to the well organised and manicured paddy fields in Vietman, here they are more haphazardas, less well managed. A second difference is unlike the Chinese-Vietnamese border, the border here not only seperate two distinct countries, but two very different ethnic groups. The difference in Khmers is quite apparent; darker complexions, less 'oriental'. In cultural terms, while the Vietnamese side is heavily dominated by Chinese influences the Khmer culture has deep roots with the Indian subcontinent.
We settle in Phnom Penh at 'No Problem' guesthouse, in backpackersville overlooking the Boeng Kak Lake. Coming in at $3 a night, with a relaxing patio's over the lake, cheap food, cheap beer and a guaranteed sunset over the lake, this place really is already taking on qualities hard to find in Vietnam...mainly RELAXATION...
Our first day in Cambodia, July 8th also has more meaning than just a visa stamp. Today is my mum, Jan's 50th (congrats Mum) and although we're not able to be there for the celebrations, we head out for beers to
celebrate for her! Aren't we kind!
The next day we head out to the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek and the S21 torture camp (formerly Tuol Svay High School) where 17,000 people perished.
You are greeted at the Killing Fields by a giant Memorial Stupa holding 8,000 skulls of victims killed by Pol Pot's Khmer Rouge. As we walk around deep pits the guide describes how the victims were killed; babies, their heads smashed against palm trees and adults, their heads decapitated through severing their necks with palm branches (like a blunt saw) to save precious bullets. Everywhere you walk, you see clothes sticking out of the soil, teeth from the victims on the paths and at worse still attatched to jawbones. It's gruesome.
We leave the fields, sick, sad and wondering how something so sickening could ever have happened. As we jump back in our tuk-tuk our driver asks us if we want to head to the shooting range. This typifies Cambodia 'always tripping'. We've just seen the mass graves of 17,000 people and he wants to know if we want to go fire off some rounds... We weigh up the pro's & con's for about
a millisecond...guns aren't toys....take us to S21 please boss!
S21, the place the educated were rounded up, totured into making fictional confessions of their "guilt" before being hearded to the killing fields. It is equally disturbing. Torture and holding rooms, black and white photographic records of the thousands of people killed. The place is so surreal that a once colourful and vibrant place was converted to a place of death. It is chilling that it looks like many of the other buildings in the city.
Phnom Penh is what it says on the tin. There's a particularly edgy feeling about this city that really intrigues and is unique to this city. We hit downtown and it's bars for a last crazy night. We're using it as a hub for moving around Cambodia and we're looking forward to coming back.
We leave for Sihanoukville, Cambodia's premier beach resort. The place is fantastic, so relaxed, so raw. The weather, being rainy season is really trying to dampen our spirits...but it's to no avail....we're far too relaxed for this to spoil our fun. I pop to the internet to periodically check my bank account, and find out my cards been
cloned and I'm now running on empty ("Cambodia, is like your always tripping"). We play on the beach with the kids, and in the sea, well Elaine plays lifeguard while I sit on the beach guarding the 70,000 bracelets the kids sell to tourists. By the end of our time there we've virtually adopted two of the sweetest (cheekiest) girls and a very shy little boy - whose face lighting up as we bought him a plate of chips was a highlight in itself.
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Jules
non-member comment
Guest House...
$3... didn't realise you were on the luxury leg of the journey!!