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Published: September 26th 2011
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I'm currently sweating it out at an internet cafe in Pnhom Pehn, capital of Cambodia. Finally found some free time to update the blog after 4 days in Siem Reap, the base town for exploring the temples of Angkor. Siem Reap is the second major city in Cambodia with a population of only 120,000 compared to Phnom Pehn's 1.5 million. The town had a laid back, almost bucolic charm but probably not for long. Signs of development are everywhere geared for massive tourist influx. My guide told me a new much bigger airport is being planned (in cooperation with Korea) to allow larger planes/more international flights. The government obviously sees the potential for Angkor to be the major attraction in southeast Asia and after visiting the temples it is easy to see why.
Just like Rome or Greece the remains of this once grand civilization are awe inspiring. The Khmer (ancestors of present day Cambodians) empire in the 12th-13th century stretched across most of southeast Asia. The area around Ankor Wat having a population of 1 million at a time when London had about 40,000.
I stayed at the
Golden Banana B&B , a charming guest house near enough to the old center of
Siem Reap. The staff was extremely helpful and friendly, the place was clean,comfortable and set amidst what was once a banana grove. They arranged for an all day guide ($25) and transport ( $15 via tuk-tuk) to the temples. My guide was very extremely helpful shedding light into Khmer culture/history and current Cambodian society. I highly recommend hiring a guide and reading up about Angkor beforehand, the shear number of temples is daunting. I found the
Footprint guide most helpful.
Here are a few of my favorite experiences of the past few days:
*
Dawn at Ankor Wat This spectacle that has been going on for 800 years makes waking up at 4:30 worth it. I will never forget seeing the outline of the temple slowly emerging as the sun rises, its reflection on the water, the sensation of witnessing something so grand and timeless. The temple is huge,some say the largest religious structure ever built. Constructed around the same time as Notre Dame. The wall carvings (bas reliefs) of battle scenes and Hindu lore and the architecture which is so different from western style can keep you preoccupied for hours.
*
Angkor Tom Built after Angkor Wat was the city
at the height of the Khmer empire, at the time that the state religion switched from Hinduism to Buddhism. The central temple called the Bayon is like nothing I've ever seen. A forest of towers topped by 4 Buddha faces aligned with the cardinal points.
Ta Phrom Instead of clearing the overgrown trees during restoration, some have been left, giving it that perfect lost-in-a-jungle look, very Indiana Jones or Lara Croft (in fact the latter was partly shot here). The roots of giant trees embracing the temples were a good reminder that most of this area were lost to the jungle for centuries.
Bantaey Srei About 30 minutes away from Angkor Wat and 200 years older. The name means citadel of women due to the carvings of Apsaras (dancing women/nymphs) that adorn it. I found this temple to be particularly beautiful because the carvings seemed more vivid plus they used a reddish sandstone (instead of gray). We were very lucky to reach this temple. An hour after we visited a bridge collapsed due to heavy rain and flooding. Reportedly one person died and about 250 tourist had to be airlifted back to Siem Reap by helicopter. So I
saw the temple but missed out on a free helicopter ride.
Wading through Siem Reap After my first day which was sunny and hot, it rained for 12 hours non stop. The river over flowed and most of the old town center flooded. I had planned to go to the floating village in the lake (Ton Le Sap) but due to high water this was impossible. Anyway I didn't need to since Siem Reap was turned into a floating town. One time, my new found traveling friends and I had to abandon our tuk tuk and wade through, in parts, thigh high floodwaters. Once we got back to the hotel our rooms had flooded and we had to be moved to the second floor.
On my way out of town the tuk-tuk could not take me to the bus station due to high water. The guesthouse owner offered the services of his Hummer. It felt very odd riding on this huge truck that barely fit through the alleys while people on bikes, motor cycles and on foot made their way through town. Everyone seemingly taking the flooding in stride. No one seemed upset, no raised voices, no traffic
jams. Granted this happens yearly but even my tour guide said this year was worse. I guess it's a testament to how good-natured the Cambodians are (considering all they have been though). The ones I've met are so welcoming and so genuinely interested and friendly.
Well that's is for now. Next up Pnohm Pehn, capital and site of a darker period in Cambodian history.
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Michelle, Dan, Shane & Maddie
non-member comment
Your writing is wonderful!
Hi Garret, Your writing is amazing - we all feel like we are right there with you! Shane saw the pictures of you in the flood and said, "Garret swimming - beach!" Thanks so much for taking us on your journey! :-) Michelle