Siem Reap Cambodia

Ancient Angkor Wat

As I touched down in Siem Reap in Cambodia I noticed the very green landscape dotted with wooden shacks and lakes. I opted to take a moto into the town for $2, my driver Li was a pleasent 28 year old guy who spoke broken English and became my best bud for the next 3 days.

I had been overwhelmed with what I had seen on the journey; the roads in the town were packed with motos and bicycles, all going in different directions and insisting on using their horn to warn each other to move. It was frightening, especially because no one wears helmets, three or four people pile on one moto, babies included. I held on for dear life and closed my eyes! Eeeek! By the sides of the road there were rows of stalls selling fruit and veg, clothes and water. For every one person working there were five others sitting watching, it was a very hectic yet laid back scene. I saw cows and elephants, bicycles piled high with goods. It was a completely different world.

Jumping off the moto at Angkor Wat I was surrounded by children selling books, flowers, water, postcards...and they did not take no for an answer. Angkor Wat is said to be the 8th wonder of the world, and I could understand why; its size was impressive and architecture mind blowing. It is the largest religious building in the world and is said to represent the creation of the universe. Surrounding this huge temple is a beautiful moat and inside there are elaborate bas-reliefs that depict scenes of Heaven and Hell.

Angkor Thom holds some of the most beautiful and important monuments in Siem Reap. With huge monumental gates showing four faces of the Buddha of Compassion, it is an impressive sight. Bayon, Terrance of Elephants and Baphuan are all within these 6 meter high walls. Bayon being my favourite with its 216 huge faces watching down on everyone. Many of the temples have undergone huge restoration after the revolution of the Khmer Rouge in 1975. Over 4 years 2 million Cambodians were killed or died due to disease and mistreatment. The effects are still devastating but it seems tourism is playing a huge role in helping the economy now. Saying that, you do feel like you are being conned for being a foreigner, so I would say stand your ground and be selective about who you chose to buy from. Many of the children work from 5am selling things at the temples, those that are lucky, go to school in the afternoon and learn a little English, Japanese and Chinese in order to say phrases to tourists, such as counting to ten and the population of London. The children, although annoying, are gorgeous and once you stop to talk to them, ask them about their life, they are happy to sit with you at length. I was given beautiful flowers, drawings and a bracelet by chatting to a couple of very sweet 8 year old girls. One boy of 21, the oldest of 8, told me how he teaches his younger siblings English every evening, about the police and corruption here in Cambodia, as well as the difficulties he will face obtaining a house and setting up a decent life for himself. Throughout this he still had a smile on his face and a sense of hope.

Over the next three days I visited numerous temples, saw Buddhist monks working and meditating, tried many Cambodian dishes and the only thing I said no to were cockroaches! Yuk! After each day roaming the ancient ruins I went for what I thought would be a relaxing massage...think again! I was pushed and shoved into the most unimaginable positions, my toes and back were cracked and she even stood on my bum! After three days I could hardly move so opted for the foot massage instead. I also spent one afternoon at a beautiful pool called Aqua Cambodia, it had a buzzing English community, all of which moved out here 5 years ago and told me how much Siem Reap had changed in that time. There only used to be one bar, and now there is a place called “Pub Street”. In the evenings this is where I went, caught up with friends I made along the way and watched the mesmerising Aspara dancing. Their costumes are vibrant, music enchanting and they use dance to act out stories of Cambodian life.

Cambodia was a huge learning curve in terms of haggling but I don’t think I would ever get used to the hoards of children surrounding me at every turn, it broke my heart. I truly enjoyed my time in Siem Reap, the lively markets and manic roads were a striking contrast to the silence at the temples. A real retreat. Cambodians hold the symbol of Angkor Wat with such pride and are content in their way of life. Men playing cards at the side of the street, children playing hopscotch in the dirt and families lazing in hammocks under wooden shacks, paints the perfect picture of this inspirational town, a true eye opener.

Xx Shaz

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