Birthday at Angkor

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Aw...another early flight from Malaysia to head to Cambodia. ..we're seeing too many sunrises for a "vacation!". Our guide met us at the airport and took us to our guesthouse so we could rest for a few hours before heading to the Angkor complex for the late afternoon and sunset.

One look at the ancient structures and I immedidately knew why I wanted to spend my birthday here. Simply spectactular.

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OLDER THAN DIRT

Massive three-tiered Angkor Wat constructed in the mid 13th century and rising 65 meters from ground level. By sunrise looking almost new, the sun shadows hiding any sign of decay. (And the day began three times...that is you can actually view the sun rising from 3 different locations on the grounds as if for the first time. Especially for we who rarely experience dawn, to do so was a real awakening!). Later, touring by full light you see the results of late 18th discovery. Many heads of sacred statutes had been stolen for bounty. Even holes in the walls which were the results of searching for gold and jewled talisman, hidden to guard the temple and it's king's grave in the afterlife, now long gone. Still, an awesome walk through the oldest structure Wendy had ever witnessed. Other damage as a result of wars. We were fortunate to be there on our second night for a once-a-year performance of both a French modern dance company and a traditional Cambodian Apasara Dancers. Live music for both. Think symphony meets street band. And in the backdrop the Angkor Wat temple fully lit. Awesome. But such an odd program diversity. Similar to the temple's history we suppose...built as Buddhist and then "converted" to Hindu later, the original carvings made acceptable with additional inscriptions and curved/rounded faces and bodies.

Many tourists around the temples and in the town. The main streets of Siem Reap catering to the monied traveler who is so critical to the improvished economy. A 5-star Le Meridian hotel on one corner, a Sofitel with a casino on the other. Turn in one block, however, and the houses are made of tin with grimy dusty streets full of smoke from the wood fires where simple meals of rice are cooked outside.

We stayed in a guesthouse that was on one of these streets (where most backpackers stay), and almost choked in the dust and smoke but marveled that we could get a decent memory-foam bed (we did use our travel sheets however), a western toilet, air conditioning with with running water (tho the shower is actually part of the small bathroom with a drain in the floor rather than our comfortable seperate shower/tubs still the water was warmish and the towel no worse than what you'd get at Motel 6) and a mini-refrigerator full of bottled water for only $15 a night. No luxury which was a little discomforting at first until we realized that all of our basic needs were met for a fee that we later found out is 1/2 the average monthly wage of most residents.

Angkor Wat is the prime site everyone who "does" Siem visits. There are even hawker's souvenir stands and outdoor cafes semi-permanently installed. Impressive discovery given that modern civilization re-found it all with the French colonialzation. It's easy to forget. Unfortunately each temple is crowded with tourists and locals who fight hard to sell you crap for a few bucks. The child merchants are the toughest to ignore as they follow you to your car while begging you to spend $1 on a book of postcards...hopefully they didn't lift wallet in the process

Tip for Angkor touring...hire a local guide. Our guide Dara provided much detail on the history and intricate carvings. He was able to take us in the opposite direction of most of the tourist and es

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Photos

Permission Required - thanks Dara
Buddhist Monk at Angkor Thom