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Published: March 10th 2007
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Shwedagon Paya at dusk (Yangon)
Yes - real gold tiles, with a couple million dollars with of diamonds and precious gems at the top (invisible to bystander at the bottom). This blog by Lucas
Jac and I would agree that Myanmar was one of the most DIFFERENT places we have been on this planet. A true melting pot with Chinese, Shan, Bangladeshi, numerous hilltribes and Burmese inhabitants, as well as more monks per square meter than anywhere else in the world, makes for an interesting cultural mix, and perhaps thankfully, it is totally cut off from Western influence. No MTV, Gap, McDonald's or Coca-Cola here (although a few people smuggle Coke in for prices similar to the opium trade). Trade sanctions and an isolationist government make Myanmar (formerly Burma - but that sounds too colonialist to the current regime) a communist mecca: all clothes and bikes from the same factory, ugly grey 'bloc' buildings, propaganda everywhere in the media and street signs, and all the inefficient trappings of a government-run economy. So let's start political - with Myanmar's almost comically inept and propagandistic, dictorial military regime (I kept thinking of those puppets from "Team America"), who in their entirely government-controlled media claim that the "People's Desire" is as follows:
1. Oppose those relying on external elements, acting as stooges, holding negative views.
2. Oppose those trying to jeopardize
Lost in Translation?
Cooperate And Crush All Those Harming The Union stability of the state and Progress of the nation.
3. Oppose foreign nations interfering in internal affairs of the state.
4. Crush all internal and external elements as the common enemy.
Progressive, eh? Maybe Bush wishes he could speak this directly? Now I have never tried to run a country or economy before, but from our first impressions of Myanmar and discussions with the actual people on the street, here is what I think the "People's Desire" should be:
1. Pave one road, just one, in a city of 6 million people. Or at least fill a pothole on any of the few paved roads that exist.
2. Implement a health care system to help the victims of "human land mine detection" and leprosy.
3. Stop blocking web-based email like Hotmail, Gmail and Yahoo so the "people" can converse with the world.
4. Open this economy to tourism so the "people" can make some money (they don't seem to be benefiting as much as the government from China's interest in Myanmar's offshore oil reserves).
5. Provide an adequate supply of electrical power and water so we don't have to run generators every
night just to keep our lights on or run a restaurant.
6. Work to lift trade sanctions and encourage the return of international banks, ATM networks and foreign investment to help improve our standard of living. Zero ATMs and no credit cards makes it difficult for tourists to leave their money with us.
Ok, so this is a dim view of Myanmar, but it is really the government and lack of basic infrastructure for the people that is so bad. The people themselves are some of the nicest and friendliest on the planet - especially with their dark skin and unique whitewashed make up / sun tan lotion made from tree bark. They seem to be more concerned with basic infrastructure needs (electricity, water, healthcare, maintained roads) and the chance to do business rather than the West's mantra of freedom and democratic government. This country made me realize that tackling infrastructure basics and enabling enough rice to feed a family for a day is perhaps a better place to start than free elections and violently overthrowing regimes. I think the people would prefer to avoid international conflict and stay peaceful - it is a very, very Buddhist country.
And, we met a young twenty-something running an internet cafe who knew more about the upcoming US and Australia elections than either Jac or I - the internet is educating Burmese people faster than the government can keep track - and perhaps the uprising will come from within.
As for the natural and religious sites of Myanmar - they are world class and totally off the radar screen for most travelers. Myanmar is still very much untouched. The temple-filled plains of Bagan and Mt. Popa were more spectacular to us than Angkor Wat in Cambodia, and Inle Lake is an exotic oasis of pristine beauty.
We started and ended our Myanmar trip in Yangon (formerly Rangoon), and spent 4 days in and around Mandalay (flying from Yangon on Yangon Airways - that was an experience....). These two cities (6 million and 1 million, respectively) are dirty, dusty, busy towns filled with ugly communist-bloc style buildings and the very last remnants of fading english colonialism (not nearly as good as the architecture the french colonialists left behind in Vietnam and Laos).
But, Shwedagon Paya in Yangon is up there with the Golden Gate Bridge, the Eiffel Tower and
the Statue of Liberty in terms of awe-inspiring monuments. Mandalay is nothing special beyond a nice hike up Mandalay Hill, but is a good base for 3-4 spectacular day trips including Mingun, U Bein's Bridge and Pyin Oo Lwin (see pictures below). Pyin Oo Lwin was an old English hill station that is a nice cool respite from hot and dusty Mandalay (1.5 hour drive), and has great 50 cent noodle vendors in a bustling market and a nice botanical retreat at National Kandawgyi Gardens. Mingun has what could have been the world's largest stupa had the king not died before completion, and you can climb to the top of the brick base (1/3 of the original planned height). U Bein's Bridge is perhaps the best sunset spot in SE Asia, as monks in deep red robes cross the bridge on foot and bikes. All in all we disliked the two major cities of Myanmar but loved the people and sites within and around them.
Yangon Highlights:
Shedagon Paya at dusk
Sandy's Myanmar Cuisine - lakefront restaurant with view of Karaweik Royal Barge on Lake Kandawgyi
Mandalay Highlights:
U Bein's Bridge at sunset
River trip to Mingun for Mingun Paya and whitewashed Hsinbuyme Paya
Hiking to the top of Mandalay Hill
Eating at Shan noodle shops and getting to know the wonderful Burmese people
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