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Published: February 7th 2013
Monk Fan
From a monk statue lining the pathFriend Jenny and I set out for Khai Yon Cave, a short distance from Mawlamyine. I thought we'd see the usual Buddha filled alcove, maybe smell some bat guano, and make a hasty retreat.
We ended up staying far longer than we anticipated.
Part of the complex is being developed, which means a lot of cement is being poured. But what delighted us was the opportunity to see a real artist at work. He was creating an elaborate set of life size figures in cement. They were coming to life before our very eyes. Even though the figures were all grey from their cement surface, they already had eyelashes, as though this was one of the most important things to do first. Most were handless, and one female figure was emerging from the ground. Another figure had half a head, and had brick chunks for brains.
The artist's helper was forming hands nearby, and four were curing while another was under development.
Behind the lifesize figures was an extensive miniature mural on the wall. We saw a wrestling match, a guy climbing a palm tree, Buddha teaching, pilgrims climbing a hill. Palm and other trees fluttered with
Nat Work
Dim lighting adds to the atmosphere as a "nat gadaw" or spirit medium, sprays liquid from her mouth on to a "patient." greenery, as though that bit of color would give the greyness of it life until it would be painted in the bright colors we saw elsewhere in the complex.
We witnessed the creation of an entire world in progress, and felt the excitement and the intent behind it. The young sculptor did not say much, but enjoyed seeing some of the photos that we snapped.
More murals, figures, and Buddhas filled the walls and a nearby small cave. We saw elephants, and a forest with a monkey hiding, a squirrel scampering, a jungle bird, and other creatures. We admired the very fertile mind of this artist.
As we walked along a path to another cave area, a row of frozen monks smiled at us. They all had frozen fans and frozen robes, but seemed happy to be on the path.
Then we spied the woman of the muck. She was a mess, the color of the cement statues, because she was nearly thigh deep in the grey mud, plunging her arms in and pulling out small and large catfish and other fish and tossing them to a bucket. Several other people were doing the same. A
Man with Cigar
We noticed him nearby after we had been talking with the cement people. huge bucket of fish was nearby, and the men washed and separated them. We were hot and sweaty, but I suspect they were a bit cooler from the mud work.
Another larger cave nearby beckoned, so we headed on in. A staggering smell of bat guano nearly sent us fleeing, but I held my breath and walked quickly on. Our seven year old "tour guide" accompanied us--she was sweet and cute, and did not say anything, just walked with us. We saw more big Buddhas.
We headed back to the mouth, where we had heard loud voices. I had suggested avoiding it, because it sounded like a bunch of guys. But the voices were still there, and that was the last part of the cave to see. When we walked around the corner, we saw a small group of women and a few men seated. At first it looked like a picnic, then we realized something special was going on. The images of nats, or spirit beings, nearby indicated they were doing something in connection with them. There were all kinds of offerings of betelnut, cigarettes, soda, flowers, coconut, and other things before the images. One of the
The Cement People
Under construction two "nat gadaws" or nat wives, was rubbing the legs of a teenage boy sitting stretched out before her, and talking to him in a low voice. She sounded as though she was lecturing him, and the women nearby laughed occasionally.
The seated women indicated to us to take some of the dripping water of a stalactite and rub it on our heads, as though that would help any head problem. They handed us a soft drink, then motioned to sit and pray to the nat. All seemed so peaceful, but there was a definite clarity and sense of power in the area. I asked a man who was walking through if this was about nats, he indicated yes, and motioned as though they were all around us, then tapped his chest, as though they were calling them in. This is my perception, I may have been all wrong. But the nat gadaw definitely seemed in trance as she worked with the young man.
Meanwhile the other nat gadaw was praying loudly before another nat, and a group of women sat directly around her. Her demeanor changed, her eyes closed, and she began speaking in a different voice.
One of the spectators seemed to ask her questions, and she talked with her. One of the spectators handed her two lit cigarettes, which she puffed at the same time. Then she started rubbing the belly of a young woman, stroking her legs, and flicking her hands. She drank something, then sprayed it on the face of the woman.
While she was doing this, the other nat gadaw nearby was praying with a young couple, and building elaborate plated offerings of food, cigarettes, flowers, perfume spritz, betelnut, and candles. The couple carried the offerings to the nat images, of which there were about six or seven. Then they prayed some more. She also puffed on a huge cigar.
As we were leaving, I noticed that this nat gadaw's expression and voice had changed, and she was speaking with the couple.
The events felt quite powerful, and we felt fortunate to have witnessed them.
I did not want to use a flash to photograph any of it, so I hardly got any photographs. But this was one of those things that is best experienced rather than photographed.
Note: I'm having trouble accessing photos on
The Wrestlers
Part of the elaborate mural on the wall of the alcove. my second memory card in my camera, so I cannot post photos of the mud or cement people for now. I will as soon as I am able.
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