Best Curry EVER

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So we finally pulled up to a heaving bus terminal still 20 minutes from our well deserved rest. We grabbed a bloke who had a bit of cardboard with a guesthouse name we recognised and he plonked us in a truck with some locals and we were off to Mandalay.

The guesthouse was odd. It all looked normal but the room was a basement that had been put together from leftovers from other hotels. We didn't care. Our Frankenstein room had 4 beds - a bunk and a double and was a bargain. It was not however ready yet and so we nipped round the corner for a noodle soup before finally crashing.

At some point the electricity must have come back on as we awoke to all the lights, fans and even the air con running at full blast.

We ventured out with the plan of grabbing a curry and trying to call home from an Internet cafe. We managed to skype home but the slow Internet meant it was a quick call and we quickly set off in search of chapati corner instead. This took us through the night Market which was full of local produce and had a carnival feel with street food and bands on every corner. The local clocktower was lit up like Blackpool and was quite a sight.

Chapati corner had a street restaurant that was to become our favourite place to eat in Mandalay as they served up freshly made chapatis, tasty biriyani and a beef curry to die for and the total cost came to about $2.50 for two. The beef melted in your mouth and it all came with free dhal and soup.

Waking up the next day on a full belly and fairly late we decided to check out the local sights without venturing as far as Mandalay hill which sported all the local religious relics. This included an ice cream bar, where Emma found yet another puppy to coo over, the market and a temple full to bursting with Buddhas.

The Market turned out to be the most interesting of these. It was an old shopping mall that had been taken over by stalls selling everything and anything. The bottom floor had fresh fruit and food clothes and jewelry. Emma was particularly taken by the gold bangles and so was I when they turned out to only cost $1.50. The steps up to the next level were powerless escalators and the further up you got the more rustic and local it became. Finally you hit the top floors and there were men playing board games and spice shops that left your eyes watering.

The temple provided some well needed shade and we took an example from a cat and took a rest against the cool pillars. We were starting to realise how hot Burma could get and that walking around at 2 in the afternoon would not be possible without some shade.

We booked a bus to Bagan after many false attempts at travel agents by doing it through our hotel. They couldn't get us the overnight bus so we weren't saving on a night accomodation but we were struggling with transport as the water festival loomed ever closer.

Everything booked we headed back to chapati corner and the same place for the same food despite having eaten at a rivals for lunch and having a pea curry that would not be out of place with fish and chips. That night Emma had an upset stomach again and neither of us slept well wondering how this might effect traveling tomorrow. As it was Emma slept the morning away and when she woke up felt marginally better.

I have no idea why I get ill all the time and Andy doesn't. We pretty much eat the same food as we share most things, its just that I normally end up throwing my half back up. He has not been ill one the jammy ba$%!^(MISSING)#d.

Whilst she had been sleeping I had woken up early and decided to walk to the hill and maybe go up it if I had time. I had my free egg and toast for breakfast and set off at 9. It soon became apparent I had not left enough time. I would get to the hill at around 10.15 and would wander around the bottom for half an hour before having to return walking again.

It was too hot and I was starting to think this was pointless as I had found nothing near the foot of the hill. Luckily as I blundered down another dead end a moto driver pulled up and asked if I was lost. Obviously. He offered to take me round the places and have me back at the hotel for 11:30 all for $5. We settled on 3 and he sped me to a pagoda round the corner.

It soon turned out it wouldn't be too easy. The government had strict entrance fees for the big attractions and I didn't want to spend too much on something I just wanted a glimpse at. I tried to say I had lost my multi pass ticket and would they let me in? No, they wouldn't. Back at my driver I explained I'd left my ticket in the hotel and he said it was OK and he'd take me to free ones and the back entrance of the biggest one.

The next one was quiet and surrounded by white pillar things with a big gold stupa in the middle. It was shoes off at the door then a quick run over hot marble to the shade. My driver showed my some good snaps to take and took me to the side to see tablets that only monks could read.

The next place he took me to the tradesman entrance where I could sneak in but warned me to avoid the ticket booth and any officials. Sure enough I got in and one of the pushy hawkers said that I was the first westerner of the day and I began to worry that if I was spotted it would be obvious I hadn't paid (and the fact that he is about 2 foot taller than everyone makes him stick out a bit.) I quickly glanced around but apart from the brightly coloured dragons it was pretty samey.

It was just gone 11 and I asked to be taken home mainly so I could shower before checking out. I got back and Emma was just stirring. We checked out and sat in the lobby slash lounge and chilled for a few hours before our bus.

Emma feeling better even ventured for a noodle soup. That eaten we got a truck to the bus station and got on the bus promptly with a load of monks and waved goodbye to our favourite food so far and a bloke selling crabs for your journey. (the edible kind..:s.)....(actually you never know in Asia)

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