A Trip to Karabagh

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It’s a dream come true! Finally my long awaited trip to Artsakh became reality. Artsakh as referred to by the Armenians means the “Woods of Aramanyak” and is also known as the disputed land of Nagorno Karabagh. It’s a difficult place to get to, a six hour drive from Yerevan, Armenia with the last few hours a trip not for the faint hearted as you follow a winding road hugging the mountainous ranges of the region. Nevertheless the views are breathtaking and the trip is well worth the effort.

My first stop was Shushi, a city perched up on steep mountain block. It has had a great strategic part in the war due to its positioning. I was amazed to discover how badly affected it had been, few people live in half-destroyed buildings, though they are slowly being restored. Shushi is the cultural centre of the region. Unfortunately I didn’t get a chance to visit Ghazanchetsots Cathedral and Kanach Zham Church. I always say its best to leave something unseen so you have to go back again some other day!

Next stop Stepanakert! The centrally located capitol city is clean and lined with trees. What struck as different was the odd naked flame seen up in front of apartment block windows. It appeared that most apartments were equipped with a small barbeque that just extends out over the street below where people can make their khorovatz (bbq meat). Another local culinary delight found freshly baked in the busy open market, is the zhengyalov hats (lavash bread baked with a selection of herbs inside). This bread is unique to the region and is a must to try!

On the outskirt of Stepanakert, on the road to Askeran is the enormous monument of “Mamik and Babik” (Grandma and Grandpa) symbolizing how deeply routed the Armenians are in this region (as only their heads are visible - as if the rest of the monument is buried in the soil).

The trip to Gangzasar monastery was the highlight of the whole journey. The “Treasure Mountain” rests on the top of a high hill and can be seen from a distance.

Oh and if you have learnt a little Armenian it wont be too useful here. The locals speak a dialect of Armenian unique to the region. But people are friendly and happy to help. Some speak English but most will respond to sign language (if you tie the hands of an Armenian behind their back they won’t be able to talk anymore!).

There are definitely many more places to see in Karabagh like Dadivank, Gtchavank and Amaras monasteries, khachkars, caves and beautiful scenery. Hopefully I’ll get to go back soon to see the bits I missed out on this trip!

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