Victoria Falls, Livingstone

No doubt about it, Mosi-oa-Tunya (meaning "The Smoke That Thunders") - but more commonly known as Victoria Falls - is one of the most amazing sights in the world. Just a few kilometres outside the town of Livingstone, the Victoria Falls are twice as tall as Niagara Falls, and several times longer. The falls are some 1,700m wide which makes them the largest curtain of water in the world. The thundering water and the towering column of spray are an awesome experience, especially from the air.

Livingstone

Livingstone is the closest town to Victoria Falls. A rather dusty Zambian town with only a handful of proper coffee shops (try Wonderbake), restaurants and supermarkets. One of the main hostels is Fawlty Towers where I stayed for 4 nights. My room was clean, rather small and a bit worn. "Manuel" was nowhere to be seen but the rest of the staff were friendly and helpful, in particular Becx at the booking office who booked me a Livingstone Island tour and a microlight flight at rather short notice.

Victoria Falls

On my first day I caught the free hostel shuttle to the Victoria Falls, located some 8km away in a National Park (US$10). The falls are remarkably preserved in their natural state and the surrounding area has been declared a National Park. The continuous spray has created a rainforest ecosystem which is rich in fauna and flora. The viewing points on the Zambian side are rickety and dangerous, but also tremendously dramatic: they offer a sidelong view of the torrent, very close to where it pitches over the brink. Several rainbows can be seen at the bottom of the gorge.

I followed the paved walk along the cliff opposite to the falls. Every so often the path provided a stunning view of the falls, in particular from the dramatic Knife Edge Bridge.

The whole scene was extremely beautiful…It had never been seen before by European eyes; but scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.
David Livingstone, 16. November 1855

Another interesting perspective can be found deep within the gorge into which the Falls descend - just follow the sign pointing to the "Boiling Pot." After a steep climb and crossing one or two fords I emerged just under the Victoria Falls Bridge. Although I could see only a small part of the falls the sight of the deep gorge and the swirling rapids was quite spectacular.

Livingstone Island

Livingstone Island is the place from where Dr Livingstone first viewed the falls in 1855. A trip to Livingstone Island is unmissable - the views are spectacular and it is possible to walk right up to the edge of the falls. The island is situated in the middle of the Zambezi river. Guided trips leave from the Royal Livingstone Hotel and cost about US$90 which makes it an expensive experience. However, the trip includes a return speed boat trip, a guided tour as well as delicious snacks, tea, coffee and drinks. It also includes the chance to swim in Devil's Pool, a rock pool right on the edge of the falls, close enough to lean over the edge.

Microlight flight

A helicopter or microlight flight offers the opportunity to see the falls from the air. I chose Batoka Sky for a 15 minute microlight flight (US$120,-) in an open cockpit. The microlight had a pair of wings, an engine, a pilot in front and me, strapped into a seat behind the pilot. I was given a helmet with a microphone so the pilot and I could talk to during the flight. We followed the Zambezi river towards the nearby falls where we arrived after a few minutes exciting flight time. We flew directly over the edge and circled above the falls for a few minutes. It was only now that I could really appreciate the massive width of the falls. From here I could also see the gorge winding off into the distance. I found this was the best and most impressive way to see the Victoria Falls.

Forget scenic helicopter rides or private jets. This is the way to fly - like a bird, like an angel, swooping through the sky above the Zambezi with nothing between the ground and my dangling feet but air. Icarus didn’t have the advantage of technology, but his father had the right idea. Today, I have wings.
Sally Emerson, The Sunday Times, 2 March 2008

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