Jane Goodall's Chimps

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Situated across TZ to the west on Lake Tanganika is Gombe Nat'l Park. It is here where Jane Goodall did her research in 1960 on Chimpanzees. She was the first to do so and as a result of her observations, we now have multi-generational information on several families of much studied chimps. Her discoveries led to documented accounts of behavior, habitat, survival, and the need for protection. Geneticly, they are 98% of us or we of them. Goodall was correct when she said, "Chimpanzees are so like us." They have such a complex brain which allows them to solve problems, plan ahead, use tools, have feelings, and learn.
As with all travel in TZ, getting there is not half the fun. It's a 3 hr plane ride across the country from Dar. At this time only Air TZ, the gov owned carrier is flying to Kigoma. Then you get on a public water taxi for the 3 hr trip north on the lake. It's the longest, 2nd deepest, and one of the oldest lakes on earth. The spartan hostel is welcoming after a very interesting trip on a very full open boat with cargo & villagers. This is their only means of transportation. Setting off with a guide early the next morning, the research trackers found the chimp families, and radioed us. There were only 3 visitors, 2 guides, and the research team. After a half hour hike, we reached the spot where Franny and her family were hanging out. And, we just sat on the ground and observed all the behaviors up close and personal: eating, nursing, pooping, urinating, rocking, communicating, swinging, and climbing...and some leaf shaking. The researchers were quick to gather the fresh scat while we tried to gather photos. But, mostly we just watched, absolutely enthralled by this family of chimps.
We also saw other chimps, baboons, red colobus and vervet monkeys, a giant 3' lizard, birds and butterflies. But, our reason for making the trip was fulfilled; we saw the chimps. It is an experience we shall take home and will never forget.
Back by water taxi to Kigoma found our plane out of commission. We had to wait for parts & repairs for 3 extra days. We were forced to see many sunsets from our hotel viewpoint over the lake. We ate many fresh fish dinners, swam in the lake, and relaxed. Our only problem was not the plane, but having NO reading material. We even bought a 3 day old newspaper in English, just so we could read. Kigoma has very limited power, no reliable internet, and very little to do. If only we had another good book, we would have been happy campers...as the airline was paying for our vacation. Karibu Tanzania! love, Dave & Wendy

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