On Safari - The Big One

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Update: 27th May 2007. Yes thats right one month after I wrote this I finally got all the photos on to the site. God I miss REAL broadband and not what they think passes for broadband in Africa...they think that internet speed that registers over 1kb per second is fast. So after taking hours on culling the over 1000 photos taken on safari, and then getting them uploaded to the blog at snail pace, yes a month has past. Pole Sana (very sorry)...but hope you like!!!


Original Message

We had always planned to go on a big safari when Rachel’s mum and sister (Joy and Vanessa) visited us from the UK, as Rachel, Vanessa and her brother Mike had given Joy an African safari for her 60th birthday (before we knew we were coming to Africa). Although it’s taken a couple of years to collect, they arrived just before the end of the first term for a 3 week stay. We originally planned to go on a camping safari with the safari company run by Gemma’s (head of school) husband (has nothing to do with the school), but the rainy season, which is now upon us, scared us a little as some previous groups discovered that the tents are not as waterproof as they should be (read, not at all) and they spent a few wet nights under canvas on wet mattresses and with wet gear. Dan, who I work with is good friends, with a local guy that runs a Mt Kilimanjaro climbing company which also do safaris, and he said that because the wet season is low tourist season he could probably get us some great deals in lodges for not much more than the camping option (which have no flexibility on price as they are all fixed park fees costs). Anyway, he checked it out and for basically an extra US$60 per person for the week, he could get us into the best lodges, so we went with them. There are a lot of choices when trying to pick safari operators and you never know which one will be good or bad, and all the books generally tell you that you get what you pay for. I think this may be true for camping safaris as you are totally under the control of the operator from the vehicles you are in, the driver you have, to the itinerary, the food you eat and the quality of the tents and gear, etc. With lodges you are a lot more confident in what you get as they are generally full board options, so your only variable is the transport and driver. There is also a big concern that the driver / guide you have may not be as good as the others, but having been on safari, as long as they know their stuff, and are personable and speak good English you have as much chance of seeing animals as the next person, as you cannot venture off the roads to see animals, so it’s generally a matter of luck more than skill. Our safari was going to be 5 days on what is known as the classic northern safari route taking in Lake Manyara, 2 nights in the central Serengeti (most only do 1 night) and then 1 night in the Ngorongoro Crater.

We set out on Monday morning about 8.30am after a night of torrential rain which continued until we were about 1 hour west of Arusha. Already we were thinking that ditching the camping was a great idea. Day one was to see us travel about 2.5 hours to Lake Manyara National Park which sits between the large Lake Manyara and the western escarpment of the Great Rift Valley, which provides for a very dramatic setting. After a spot of lunch at our lodge, (the Lake Manyara Serena Lodge - situated on top of the escarpment with great views over the park and the rift valley beyond) we then spent the afternoon on a game drive through the park. As you may remember Rachel & I had done a smaller safari in Arusha National Park and had seen many animals but most of what they call the “Big Five” had eluded us - for the record the Big 5 are Lion, Leopard, Elephant, Rhino & Buffalo. This list is an old hangover from the colonial hunting days and refers to the 5 most dangerous animals to hunt rather than to see. You’re more likely to be killed by a hippo than one of the big 5. We were all of course really excited to see some of these and I personally couldn’t wait to see some Elephants and Lions, if I saw those in the next 5 days I would go home happy.

Lake Manyara is a lovely park and a very different environment from what we would see in the Serengeti and Crater. We saw loads of animals but the highlight was definitely the Elephants which on 2 occasions we were so close to you could see the pupil in its eyes. We saw our first group of about 8 elephants in the bush just off the road and we stopped to watch them eat and generally hang about really. One massive bull elephant crossed the road about 30 meters ahead of our vehicle and it became clear that they were heading in the direction that would see them cross the road. Anyway, as they made their way closer to the road we moved ahead slightly only to suddenly have one large elephant come out of the bushes right next to our 4wd. Of course not thinking I said to our driver Gerald to stop (he hadn’t seen it) as I had my camera ready to get a shot but it was so close I couldn’t get the whole thing in. The driver on the other hand wanted out of there when he realised - if the elephant had made contact with the vehicle then he would cop a massive fine and lose his guides license for 12 months (in hindsight a great idea by the authorities). Of course when the excitement passed I realised that if we had stopped where I said the elephant would have had nowhere to go, we were so close it may have charged the car. Oh well it was great as they all passed across the road only feet from where we were. I should also explain that the safari vehicles are fitted with large removable hatches so you can happily stand up and look through the roof.

Our next elephant experience was with a massive bull elephant later in the day that was happily wondering along the dirt road eating the roadside plants. This thing was massive and way bigger than the big Land Cruiser safari vehicle we were in. If it had wanted to it could have over turned the vehicle without even raising a sweat. It was very nervous about us and a couple of other vehicles being on the road, but it didn’t seem to want to move off the road, and of course we had nowhere to go, so tucked the vehicle as close to the bank as possible. A couple of times it flared its ears up (which Gerald said was not a good sign) but eventually it walked past us although not until we were all cramped on the other side of the vehicle literally looking up at its massive tusks as it wandered by. We returned to the lodge to be treated with fine food and local tribal entertainment around the pool. This safari lodge business is very civilised!!!

Day 2 was going to be an all day drive from Lake Manyara through the world heritage listed Ngorongoro Crater Conservation Reserve (although not actually into the crater - just driving along the rim) to get to the Serengeti National Park which is on the other side. Unfortunately for us the crater volcano rim was covered in cloud and mist so we couldn’t see down into the crater from the view points so our excitement of the crater would have to wait a few more days until we returned. After a couple of hours of driving through the hilly crater reserve and passing lots of simple Masai villages we suddenly hit the start of the flat, treeless plains that distinguish the Serengeti and immediately you felt quite over powered by the surroundings. The Serengeti is so huge that the grass plains stretch from one horizon to the other, and you really feel a very insignificant part of this massive ecosystem. From the start of the plains (still in the Crater Conservation Reserve) it’s about 1 hour until the Serengeti National Park gate, but we saw thousands of animals on the move. Yes we were in for a massive treat as the annual migration was in full swing and we were going to drive right through the middle of it. Thousands upon thousand of Wildebeest, Zebra, Buffalo, Impala, Gazelle and other hoofed herbivores were on the move following the rains and fresh grass eventually ending up in the Masai Mara in Kenya about July / August. We hoped we would see the migration but were not sure as obviously there is only one road in so if they are not in that area then too bad. There were times when we saw whole herds grouped together grazing and eating, and then other times we saw long single file lines of animals on the move that stretched for as far as you could see. It was one of those great moments that you normally only see on TV and hope that one day you may see it in the flesh. I feel very lucky to have witnessed it, and this was all on day 2. If we didn’t see another animal (except for a lion) I was a satisfied safari passenger.

As we drove along the flat plains, out of nowhere, we came across a small rock formation, right out of the Lion King, and saw our first couple of lions sleeping on top of “Pride Rock”. Of course we were very excited as we pulled off the road onto a track that has obviously been well worn by previous tourists to get right up close to the lions - a big male and female companion. We were to see many more lions on the trip but I will always remember the first ones, who even awoke from their lazy 20 hour a day slumber to pose for photos. We saw many other animals along the way to the lodge in the central Serengeti for a 2 night stay and more really nice food and surroundings. When you think of lodges in the Serengeti, you picture these walled oases in the middle of the parks, keeping the tourists safe from the roaming predators, but no such thing exists. Sure the lodges are very luxurious and a welcome sight after sitting in a hot and dusty vehicle all day, but after dark you have to walk to your room with an armed guard just in case any dangerous animals have wandered into the grounds - all very exciting.

Day 3 was going to be driving around the Central Serengeti area, which is a slightly different environment with some trees and even the occasional hill, but with all that we had seen so far it was going to be hard to live up to the previous 2 days. First up we went to a hippo pool with hundreds of hippos in it that you could almost reach out and touch. The viewing point is just above them so it is fairly safe, and we enjoyed watching them frolic around in the water, and even caught a couple of late comers arriving back to the pool after their nights land wandering. We also saw another couple of lions sitting in the long grass - which was quite prominent here making Lion, Cheetah and Leopard spotting hard.

Day 4 was the drive back to Ngorongoro Crater the same way we had come and we passed the migrating herds again and almost saw a potential kill when we came across a big male lion sitting in the grass with approaching Wildebeest and Zebra heading its way. We waited for ages but it seemed the animals were aware that the lion was there as it was up wind, so they all made a really wide berth of the lion site. Shame for us as you can imagine with potential prey walking right into its trap we thought we were in for a treat. Oh well it was a fitting end to the magnificent Serengeti Park, a once in a lifetime trip, well worth the time and money. The highlight was definitely the migration, without which it may have been a wildlife sparse area, but still worth the visit even if just to experience the sheer feeling of the power of nature in progress.

Late morning saw us back at the Crater entrance about to descend down into the crater park but not before we bought some Masai spears from a group of local Masais trying to sell things just outside the gate. The crater itself is breathtaking being an almost perfect volcano crater with high rocky cliffs overlooking a flat crater floor with grass plains and lakes providing a perfect home for many animals. Upon arrival on the crater floor we came across a massive male lion on guard duty over a half buffalo carcass that he and his mates had obviously killed the night before. Apparently one lion will stay on guard duty until the pride have finished completely with the kill, even while the others go off and rest to let their dinner go down - if left alone the pack of hyenas that were waiting close by would have come in and finished everything off. It was a big buffalo that they had killed which would have taken some doing!!

We saw our first and only Rhino in the park but it was a fair way off the road, but still looked every bit as majestic as you would expect. The other highlight of the crater other than the beautiful setting, was coming across another large pride of lions. Our driver, Gerald, spotted 2 sitting in the grass about 10 metres from the road so we all jumped up through the roof to have a look, but when I looked behind me there were about 5 sitting right on the roadside. We were literally feet from them and in total there were about 9 lions sleeping in the hot sun. A few got up for the odd pose, but when we were leaving Vanessa was messing around with one big male lion saying “here kitty”, etc and then roared at it a few times. It obviously didn’t think this was funny and started to get agitated and after one last roar from Ness it looked like it was going to get up and come and sort her out. Gerald our driver hit the gas and sped off and then explained that the lion could have easily jumped up onto the top of the vehicle and got its own back. We all thought it was funny, but then again it probably was a bit stupid, but at least the lion had a break from the boredom.

Our last day was the drive home but not before stopping for another fine meal at a lodge called Gibbs Farm near Lake Manyara, after an enjoyable hike up to some waterfalls. All in all we had a wonderful time and saw everything we wanted to see and more. We had a great time and it really was a trip of a lifetime, one that we will never forget.

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Photos

The road to safari
common site of young child in charge of the family animals

Lake Manyara
From on top of the Rift Valley you can see the Lake Manyara National Park between us and the lake. You can also see the other side of the Rift Valley on left.

Lake Manyara National Park
We nearly hit this elephant as he came out of the bush just as we were moving off. Lucky for us!!

Lake Manyara National Park
Why did the elephant cross the road ??

Lake Manyara National Park
Why did the elephant cross the road ??

The famous blue balled monkey
Can you see why?

Comments

[Helen MacLeod]

Exciting pictures
Now I can't wait for my August safari. What fab photos and so lucky in what you saw. Do you have a whizzy type of camera, should I buy a new one before I go?! I am interested in your school too. I am a Reception teacher in UK. I lost my husband last summer and when my kids (15/17) leave home I think I would like to go and teach elsewhere. Do you recommend it?