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Published: August 22nd 2008
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Saturday, May 10, 2008 I met Bill near the dining hall. He said that Dan was very sick and hadn't slept most of the night. Because many of the attendees were checking out and leaving for the airport, Bill suggested the two of us should find people who would give their impressions of the conference. We managed to locate a few who who were still there and got their comments on camera. We showed the short documentary to several of them.
Dan wandered down after a while. He was a bit green around the gills but was eager to get as much footage as possible. He wanted to continue the practice of having a roundtable discussion, as established at an earlier IYPE Launch by Johnanne Winchester, a communications coordinator. Several noted scientists were still on the grounds. They were aware of the project, and two were waiting to see where we'd do it. I made a call to the others, and soon everyone was at the conference hall.
The four were Professor Mohammed S. Sheya, IYPE Goodwill Ambassador and member of Tanzania's Permanent Delegation to UNESCO in Paris; David Ovadia, Director of International for the British Geological Survey;
Professor Hudson Nkotagu, Hydrogeologist at the University of Dar es Salaam and Organizer of the IYPE Conference; and Dr. John Anderson, paleobotanist from the South African National Biodiversity Institute (SANBI).
Dan told them he wanted them to express their true feelings, even if they disagreed with points made by others. At first everyone summarized what they liked best and least about the conference. They talked about problems facing Tanzania and other places. The debate came when one spoke of increased cases of malaria caused by global warming. Another disagreed. He said that global warming played a part, but changes in the government's spraying patterns could also explain it. Professor Sheya said no matter what the cause, the fact that it happened should be the central point.
The roundtable went on for a while, then everyone shook hands, exchanged cards and left.
Bill and I joined the group going to a Tanzanite mine. There were several vehicles. I went in one of the Land Rovers, while Bill went on a bus. It had rained in the area near our destination, so part of the road was flooded. Our ATV was barely able to get through, but we made
Hudson Nkotagu and David Ovadia
Continuing roundtable discussion it, as did the one behind us. Bill's bus, which was low to the ground, took a detour, because the water was too high. It seemed to take them hours to get to the mine, but I haven't any idea what the actual time was.
Meanwhile, several of the mine officials told us we were in a controlled area. There were four camps—A, B, C and D. Three hundred miners were in the area, along with mine managers, a union and conciliation committee.
Once the bus with Bill and the others arrived, we all went to Camp D, delegated to small scale miners. As our vehicles climbed the hills, we saw absolute squalor. Living conditions were deplorable, which is criminal, because the rare gems bring extremely high prices. Little of it evidently goes to the men who toil in such dangerous places.
We went to a building where several men gave us an overview of the camp, then passed around uncut rocks embedded with Tanzanite, a form of zoisite whose color can range from deep blue to a bluish purple. We saw other rocks with pyrite, sometimes called “Fools' Gold.”
Tanzanite was discovered in 1967 in
the Merelani Hills in the Arusha region. The demand has grown, and some think the gemstone is preferred more than diamonds.
We walked to the mine and a few people at a time would climb down, look around, and climb back out, making room for the next small group. The angle was steep, and as we descended deeper, the ceilings seemed to be lower and the walls seemed to be narrower (which may not have been the case except in my mind). When it was my turn, I had to hold onto a rope. I continued the descent, going past Marc who was asking questions on a low “step.” There was another small opening towards the bottom. I continued going lower, and someone said I was free to do it, but we were supposed to go no further than where Marc was.
I turned around and started the steep climb back. I couldn't make it without using the horizontal wooden pieces embedded in the dirt, like rungs of a ladder. My rear was in the air as I would move one foot, one hand, then another foot and another hand. People were laughing. As I looked to my
left, I saw Bill videoing me. I smiled and said something like, “What do you expect; I'm 67 years old.” Believe me, the climb was a good workout.
Once outside the mine, we were allowed to pick up small rocks and stones. I've always done that everywhere I've gone in the past, and have taken them from South Africa, Abu Dhabi, India, even Colorado. For some reason, I didn't do it that day and still ask myself “Why?”
After everyone who wanted to go into the mine had finished, we moved to an area with plastic stacking chairs. We were hot, sweaty and dehydrated, so water and soft drinks were passed around. A government official told us that miners get a share of the profits when Tanzanite is found. I asked what they did for money in the meantime, and he said they have sponsors who give them a small amount until they are successfully in locating the mineral. I didn't want to get into anything controversial, so went no further, but didn't think the sponsors were very generous or humane.
Mineral brokers buy the gemstones. More often the items are sold to licensed dealers in Arusha.
Permits for exports are also given. The government and traders review prices and reach an agreement. While we were in the country, Tanzanite was $380 a gram.
In Madagascar, children sell the gemstones. Only 10% of exports are cut. Although the government is encouraging having them cut locally, most are done in India. The United States is the biggest buyer, and South Africa receives some as well.
The real money is made in Kenya which buys at a low price and sells it for a high one.
The official told us of a tragedy that took place in the Spring. Rains and heavy flooding trapped a group of miners underground. Seventy-eight drowned, and there are still nine unrecovered bodies.
The trip was interesting, but I was glad I had the opportunity to leave. Being a miner is not high on my list of things to do.
When we were about to enter the vehicles for the ride back to the lodge, Bill asked if I would switch places with him. He said that the dust affected his camera equipment. I said, “Hakuna Matata,” (no problem). It turns out that there were two problems:
The
dust was so intense, many of us covered our nose and mouth with a handkerchief. If we closed the windows, we would pass out from the heat, but if we kept them open, we couldn't breathe.
The bus got lost, and it took us hours to reach the Lodge.
I went to the gift shop as soon as I got back, since it would probably be my last chance. I finally got the photographer's vest to replace the inexpensive one I got at a sporting store in Houston, along with presents for my family and friends. There was a magnificent statue of three people; I believe it was carved from mahogany. The owner said he'd give it to me for a good price, but in the end, I saved the money.
I thought someone had the radio volume too loud, but went outside to find there were real musicians coming to play for a wedding. An open flatbed truck brought many of the guests, and it was one of those wonderful unplanned moments.
Several people came to me separately with projects. Hudson was interested in a school for the Kigoma District near Lake Tanganyika, and Songo
wanted a pump for a village. He also wanted to have a connection between a school in Tanzania and one in Houston. I told both I would spread the word, but couldn't take on the responsibility of leading the projects.
After eating a light dinner, I went to my room to pack and try to get a good night's sleep.
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