My LP grimly prophesises seven hours to Atbara from Karima, but it takes just three. This allows me time to transfer - after a another free lunch and lift between bus depots courtesy of an off duty policeman - straight on to Khartoum, rather than waste a day in this uninteresting transport hub. Just under halfway, at my request, I am unceremoniously dumped in the desert at Begrawiya, just shy of the sensational Meroe pyramids. These crumbling tombs are the last testament to the ancient Kingdom of Kush (800BC - 350AD) of which Meroe was the capital. They are a fantastic sight. Significantly smaller and also narrower in structure than the epic pyramids of Giza, these ruins are appealing because of their solitude. They occupy rises on three sides of a sunken, empty plain and the
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