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Published: November 17th 2013
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Today we are headed to Cape Town, our final stop. This means hours on the bus but Donavan has a surprise for us. We eat a lovely breakfast on the terrace of The Point, say goodby to the Dassies and head out. We have crossed from the West Cape to the East Cape and the mountains that surround Cape Town are sharp and clear. While we're riding, Donavan gives us a history lesson about apartheid.
It is a tragic story yet one that is surprisingly hopeful. The fact that startles me is that the implementation of the apartheid laws began only in 1960 when millions of people were classified racially, disenfranchised and forcibly removed from their homes and relocated outside the cities in "townships". These townships can be seen today, sprawling shanty towns serviced by port-a-potties and electricity hijacked from any available source. Today the government is struggling to provide decent housing but it is a slow and daunting task. These people try to exist and maintain a sense of community where drugs and diseases are rampant. They are remote from the cities where the good jobs are and the bus fare would eat up most of their
income. Many work as day laborers or farm workers for as little as ten rand a day. That converts to $1. The end of apartheid came in 1994. Only thirty-three years and so much damage. What is hopeful is that everywhere we see people of different races treating each other with respect.
We stop for lunch and Donavan recommends a lovely cafe next to a bubbling stream. He is up front about getting a free meal when he brings guests here but we loved the location and the food was delicious.
We get back on the bus and reach Donavan's surprise. We are visiting the Cheetah Outreach Center where the goal is to educate the public and the ranchers in particular. Farmers are provided with a dog as an alternative to traps and poison. Dogs! Anatolian Shepard dogs are bred to guard the herds or flocks. They a large animals and are able to deter the jackets that are the real threat to ranch animals. They also breed cheetahs and provide ample space for them to roam. They are the ambassadors for education programs around the world.
We had the once
in a lifetime opportunity to stroke a wild animal. Our boy was sleeping, just as soundly as Mr. Moseby does at home, and we petted his back. I had the urge to just cuddle next to him but, of course, that is not permitted. His fur is short and coarse, not soft at all. This is such a beautiful animal and is threatened in the wild.
After touring the facility and watching the animals get their meal we head on to Cape Town and our hotel right in the center of things. There is a daily craft market in the square in front of the hotel where vendors from all over Africa sell their wares. It is erected every morning and removed every afternoon. By night you would not know it was there. Again we are greeted by the staff with a refreshing drink and shown to our rooms. Of all our accommodations this is me least favorite, facing an air shaft with a tiny bathroom. Still, it is clean and the bed is comfy and that's what counts.
We head out in search of an ATM and while everyone else heads for the Victoria and Albert Waterfront, Joe and I discover a tapas restaurant near the hotel and enjoy a great meal and I get a good nights sleep.
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