Castle Capers

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As today was my last full day in Cape Town I was determined to see a few sights. I found out about the bus tours and set off in search of the tourist office in town, finally arriving three minutes after the last bus had arrived. I browsed in the book shop across the street before taking my place at the bus stop, only to be ushered back into the book shop to buy my ticket in advance. I'm assuming they must get some commision on it, but since the price wasn't any different for me I went ahead and got it. I relaxed on the top deck of the bus, half heartedly listening to the audio guide and enjoying watching the bustle of the busy streets from above.
I waited until we reached the Castle of Good Hope before getting off to visit anywhere. The first thing that struck me was, it's not a castle! It's a fort, but the South African's have always called it a castle so that's what it remains. Built between 1666 and 1679 by the Dutch East India Company (VOC) as a maritime replenishment station, the Castle of Good Hope is the oldest surviving colonial building in South Africa.
From 1678 it was the centre of civilian, administrative and military life at the Cape, until the settlement grew and some functions and activities moved away from the Castle. Today the Castle is the seat of the military in the Cape, and houses the Castle Military Museum and Iziko Museums of Cape Town
I walked across the moat and entered through the gateway, built in 1682 to replace the old entrance, which faced the sea. The pediment bears the coat of arms of the United Netherlands, portraying the crowned lion rampant holding the seven arrows of unity in its paw. Carved on the architrave below are the arms of Van Hoorn, Delft , Amsterdam, Middelburg, Rotterdam and Enkhuizen—all Dutch cities in which the United East India Company had chambers.
Inside I found a nondescript reception area in an otherwise empty room and for once got the student discount which seems so elusive in this country. I paid for a map of the castle which wasn't the clearest or the easiest to follow. Inside the castle I found a small cafe where a few people were drinking tea and apart from that the place was deserted. I hesitantly walked forward and, not having the slightest clue where to start, set off in a random direction. I found a couple of notice boards giving a brief history of parts of the castle, but nothing pointing out a direct route. I walked around to the back of the central buildings and walking through an archway discovered a very pretty little courtyard where the yellow building flanked a pool with a decoratve staue in the centre. I saw a door open at the side and peered in surprised to see carpet-covered stairs. Noticing an upward pointing arrow and thought I must finally have found the tourist route and walked up the stairs. The light filled room was dominated by a long polished wooden table, rows of lights hanging above. I started to move towards the door at the far end when a voice barked at me in Afrikaans. Startled, I turned and faced a large suited man. Switching to harsh English he demanded to know what I was doing and as I hesitantly raised my camera in a 'I'm just a harmless little tourist' gesture he told me I wasn't allowed up there and pointed my way to the stairs, watching suspiciously until I left. Back in the courtyard I stomped off annoyed that somehow it was my fault I'd entered a private area when the door had been left wide open and there had been no signs warning me not to enter.
I rounded the corner and walked beside the yellow walls, punctuated with green-silled windows and matching doors. I found steps to the roof and hesitantly walked along, wondering if I was allowed up there or not. I passed the cannons and looked down at the main square and the town hall. Deciding I wanted my lunch, and not wishing to be told off again for being in the wrong place I found myself a spot beside a cannon and behind a low wall, completely invisible to everyone apart from Table Mountain which loomed above me. Pulling my squished rolls from my bag I curled up on a patch of grass and flicked through my guide book.
After lunch I continued to wander around the roof, finally spying a notice board assuring me of my right to be there. I walked the full circuit of the roof, paused to view the bell, cast in 1697 by Claude Fremy in Amsterdam and still hanging from its original wooden beams, before descending on the opposite side of the courtyard I'd started from. I briefly visited the rooms in the central building. The stairs framed by the impressive balcony lead to the secunde's house. Only are couple of rooms are open but they are furnished with late 17th century furniture and still have their original floors and restored wall paintings.
I left the castle to await the tour bus back outside. Back on the bus I sat back and relaxed. Feeling like I've used up all my tourist energy this month it was actually quite enjoyable to have a restful trip. The bus climbed the road up towards Table Mountain and, though a little annoyed I hadn't known the bus came this far two days ago when I forked out for a taxi, I enjoyed the second brief visit without the need to rush off the bus and over to the cable car as most others were doing. We drove along the coastal roads and paused near Camps Bay Beach to take a few photos. I was surprised by the sight of the trees along the coast line. the winds here are so strong that the trees actually grow at an angle depending on how the wind has blown them. It was really funny to see trees on one side of the road leaning forward, and oposite the trees next to the buildings leaning across the road because the wind hits the buildings first and then blows in a different direction.
I entertained the idea of getting off to explore the V&A Waterfront but the next bus was quite a wait and for the first time in my travels I really couldn't be bothered. I enjoyed viewing the waterfront from my spot on the upper deck. The V & A Waterfront is actually the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront. Queen Victoria's second son, Prince Alfred, began construction of the harbour in 1860. The first basin was named after himself, the second after his mother, hence the name.
I rode the bus to my original point and then walked back towards the hostel. I spent part of my afternoon lost in the second hand bookshop and decided to repay the owner for his previous kindness by donating my used paperbacks and stocking up on a few more, grossly overestimating how many I can read in the next couple of days! A quick visit to the supermarket ended my day's travels and I spent the entire evening back at the hostel in the very good company of my new books!

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Comments

[Travel South Africa]

Castle of Good Hope
Yes, it is a mystery why a fort built in 1666 is called a castle, but we are very proud of it. I think it comes from us having such a short "european" history and this is the oldest building in the country. In England anything built after the 1700's is practically considered new.... not so for South Africa. I hope you enjoyed the tour. Sorry about your telling off.... we are very protective over our history and some of the rooms are still in use today by military regiments, which might be one of the reasons for the man wanting you out of the room?!

[AnnaAdventuring]

Yes, it's very possible the room was being used for something. It appeared ready for a conference or something and as I fled I did see security cameras in a side room. Oh well, I certainly enjoyed my visit despite being scolded like a schoolgirl!