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Published: June 14th 2022
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We were dreading the long and mostly boring drive to Johannesburg, specially since we were so sad to leave the marvels of Kruger National Park behind us.
It didn't turn out as bad as anticipated thanks to the three stops that took up part of the morning. Along the way was Blyde River Canyon, and three outstanding lookouts: God's Window, Bourke's Luck Potholes, and the Three Rondavels. Each one of these lookouts involved a bit of a hike, on terrain that was at some times a bit precarious over uneven paths and rocks, but all were worth the effort.
Situated in the northeast of Mpumalanga province, the Blyde River Canyon is thought to be the third-largest canyon in the world. Measuring 16 miles in length, it’s also the world’s largest green canyon. In 2005, provincial authorities changed the name of the Blyde River to the Motlatse River. The official name of the canyon is therefore the Motlatse Canyon, although most people still refer to it by its colonial name.
The story goes that in 1844, the Blyde River was named by a group of Dutch settlers who camped there whilst waiting for members of their party to return
from a trip. The name means “River of Joy” and refers to the happiness with which the expeditionary party were welcomed home. They had been gone so long that they were feared dead – which is why the Treur River, which connects to the Blyde River, was named the “River of Sorrow”.
Our first stop was the God's Window Lookout. The most famous lookout, so named for its supposed resemblance to God’s view over the Garden of Eden. Located at the southern edge of the reserve, the viewpoint’s plunging cliffs provide an unforgettable vista over Kruger National Park to the distant Lembombo Mountains on the Mozambican border. We were lucky to have a clear day to enjoy the beautiful view, since it's often obscured by clouds.
A funny note. For anyone who's ever seen the movie The Gods Must be Crazy, it is from this lookout point that the hero throws the bottle from believing, because of the cloud coverage, that he had reached the end of the world.
Not far, our second stop was Bourke’s Luck Potholes. Another notable lookout point, Bourke’s Luck Potholes is a series of cylindrical wells and plunge pools carved out by
the swirling waters at the confluence of the Blyde and Treur rivers.
The arrival and walk to the potholes is rather unremarkable, but as the site is revealed it becomes more and more fascinating, at least for someone like me who has such a weakness for dramatic water and stone scenery.
It's not easy to get around on the uneven terrain. Jumping and skipping from stone to stone is not always easy, and watching where you step not to end up with a twisted ankle is a most.
Of course, with more time there are many additional trails and paths around the site and up the river bed but, regrettably, with the long day ahead of us on the road, we were limited as to the amount of time we could spend exploring.
Third and last lookout was the Three Rondavels. These circular, grass-topped peaks resemble the traditional houses of the native people.
As we approached the third lookout, more and more of the canyon walls were displayed and, eventually, the peaks for which the lookout is named began to appear in all their remarkable appearance.
The pictures don't do Blyde River Canyon justice,
but at least they give an idea of how stunning the views are, and how deep the canyon is.
The remainder of the trip was uneventful and, again after sunset, we arrived in Johannesburg and, much to our delight, to our charming and glamorous hotel, The Protea Hotel Fire & Ice on Melrose Arch. After our rustic stay, this hotel was all glitter and it's location was next to a pedestrian mall and close to little plazas and squares full of trendy restaurants and wine bars.
We chose that evening to visit Vino, a quaint wine bar on a side street off a busy plaza. A glass of Pinotage wine, and some steamed mussels and we were ready to face what promised to be a potentially grueling day of apartheid history.
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