South Africa 2017: May 23


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May 23rd 2017
Published: June 2nd 2017
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It's check-out day from Humala. Yet another bright, cloudless day. I am starting to feel better finally, although the annoying cough persists. Violet still seems to be unaffected.

We leave at the more reasonable time of 7 am after saying good-bye to Wessel and his staff, with whom we have become very fond. Wessel urges us to promote Humala. They started working with Touchdown just last year, and have big plans to expand in an ecologically sensitive way. It is hoped that in the next few years, lions and other big cats will be reintroduced to Songimvelo. That will certainly shake up the food chain.

Last ride out in the land rovers. On the way, we see a large troop of baboons and our friends the rhinos. The rhinos are light tan in colour today. What's going on? It's from them rolling in the mud. This practice provides relief from insects and skin parasites, which are trapped in the hardening mud and then sloughed off.

At the park entrance, we settle our bill and load up Bakkies' van. We will spend the night at a resort closer to Johannesberg, but we have some stops along the way.

Our first stop is Hartbeespoort, just north of Johannesberg. It is close to the Hartbeespoort Dam, South Africa's only major dam, built for irrigation purposes. We take the Hartbeespoort aerial car up to the top of Magaliesberg Mountain. This cable car system, originally built in 1973, was completely revamped in 2010. It is the longest mono-cableway in Africa.

The view from the top is fantastic in all directions. There is a short circular pathway around the perimeter with interpretive signs to explain what you are seeing in each direction. Looking north, we can see the nearby town of Hartbeespoort and the dam. At least half of the dammed-up waterway is covered with green algae. When asked about it, Bakkies doesn't have much to say but I find out out late than this is a manifestation of an endemic pollution problem.

We have lunch at the top of the mountain; various meat options with chips. The weather is very pleasant, with an easy breeze counteracting the significant heat from the sun.

We take the cableway back down and pile back into the van. The next stop is a commercial establishment called Predators' Pride, where we will finally get
JackalJackalJackal

Predators' Pride, Hartbeespoort, SA
to see big cats, although not in a natural setting. All the animals at Predators' Pride were born in captivity or rescued.

Our host Armand is very engaging. He clearly loves his animal charges and they him. While they have some warthogs, baboons and jackals here, this place is all about the cats.

The appetizer is a pair of caracals, a wild cat with beautiful facial markings and dramatic spiky tufts on its ears. They are known as the most acrobatic of cats. Next is a jaguar and panther perched high up in the tree who are good buddies. As you may know, a panther is a jaguar with a genetic mutation that gives him coal black fur. The panther does not seem too pleased to see us and keeps a watchful yellow eye on us.

We move next to a pen with three male lions lazing on a raised platform in the warm sunshine. They are "teenaged" brothers. Armand tells us that male lions of this age are "totally useless." In the wild, they would have been chased out of the pack around this time and would be living independently or with their brothers until they
Panther with his leopard buddyPanther with his leopard buddyPanther with his leopard buddy

Predators' Pride, Hartbeespoort, SA
were old enough to challenge for a place in the pride. So the plot of the Lion King has a foundation in fact. Armand calls them over, then pets and nuzzles them through a hole in the wire. They are very cat-like, even emitting a low guttural purr, except that their paws are about the size of our heads.

In the next cage is a white female lioness, who looks like she would like to see what we taste like. Although slightly smaller than the boys, she looks sleek and muscular.

The next enclosure houses two cheetahs. Such beautiful animals! They are machines built for speed, with enormous chests and powerful limbs. We are allowed to accompany Armand inside the enclosure and very, very carefully pet the cheetahs. Its fur is short and bristly, but it likes being petted in the same place as a house cat: the jowls, the top of the head, around the ears.

Next we meet a pair of young lions around 10 months old. That makes them the equivalent of a three-year-old. They are full of vim and vigour and enjoy playing with Armand. However, they are the size of large dogs
One of the three lion brothersOne of the three lion brothersOne of the three lion brothers

Predators' Pride, Hartbeespoort, SA
and their roughhousing is too dangerous to try with the public.

The next cage is home to a serval. This is another smaller African cat, known for its enormous ears, its blinding speed, and its ability to jump up to 10 ft vertically to trap its prey. We get to pat him as well, although he is more interested in chasing a branch that Armand drags around for him. Next door is an enclosure with two leopard cubs. They are only about 6 months old and are very mischievous. They want to climb all over us, eat our cameras and pull off our clothes. Cute but quite the pain.

Last stop is another caracal. Armand tells us that this caracal has become accustomed to people and that we are allowed to pet it and even pick it up. So the proper way to pick up a caracal, should you ever need to, is extend your arm from behind all the way along its body, and support the front part of his body with the other hand. Oh, and remember to reassure him that you mean him no harm. The animal is heavier than I expected, maybe 25 lbs,
I get to pat a cheetahI get to pat a cheetahI get to pat a cheetah

Predators' Pride, Hartbeespoort, SA
and doesn't seem to be too thrilled with the handling, but puts up with it grudgingly when he hears we are Canadians.

Armand has one final treat for us: a one-month-old lion cub. Armand has raised him by hand, establishing the kind of life-long bond with his charge that we have already witnessed firsthand. He's an adorable little ball of fluff whose eyes have just opened.

We take our leave of Predators' Pride with enormous respect for these gorgeous animals. It's sad to think that every one of them is endangered, and that it may not be too long before the only way to see them is in a facility like this, well-intentioned as it is.

Another hour and a half in the van brings us to the resort where we will spend the night, called Seasons Spa. It is a gated community with a lot of construction under way. Our accommodations are lovely. After settling in, we take a stroll around the grounds. Impala and kudu wander freely around the complex, and apparently wildebeest are one of the hazards on the golf course.

A farewell braai tonight, coupled with a roaring campfire. The fiery heat
I get to pick up a caracalI get to pick up a caracalI get to pick up a caracal

Predators' Pride, Hartbeespoort, SA
is appreciated, since it is fairly cold here after dark. Pretty much all the fellow travellers that we have encountered on this trip are here, including the crazy ladies from the GTO. Lots of food and wine, and an excellent time is had by all.

Tomorrow we are homeward bound.


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One-month-old lion cubOne-month-old lion cub
One-month-old lion cub

Predators' Pride, Hartbeespoort, SA


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