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Published: January 23rd 2021
wake up
the beach is waitingA beautiful morning with a gentle breeze and the sound of the waves from the Indian Ocean woke us. In South Africa this time of the year sun rise in already at 4:30 and it is easy to be early out and about. We used our free (non-traveling) day to enjoy the beach and the beautiful resort build in this lush, green and remote site on the Wild Coast. The Wild Coast is a section of the coast of the Eastern Cape. The region stretches from East London in the south to the border of KwaZulu-Natal in the north. Historically the name “Wild Coast” is an exceedingly accurate appellation as well. The area is geo-politically explosive and contains the Transkei (which literally means across the Kei River), Xhosa homeland where White rule was difficult to establish even during Apartheid. Xhosas are fierce fighters when it comes protecting their turf and culture. It never really succumbed to colonial rule. Today the Wild Coast is famous for beach and hiking tourism. Coffee Bay and the surfing Mecca Chintsa are possibly the most famous locations. The amazing hike from Coffee Bay to Hole in the Wall traverses high sea cliffs and rolling green hills
and is approximately 3 hours in either direction. Along the way, the hiker passes Xhosa villages and the Baby Hole and is treated to spectacular views of the coastline. A steep path up the Whale's Back provides a different view of Hole in the Wall, for those with enough energy left. This hike we were planning to do. Soon you will find out why we did not !
To start our morning walk and jog on the beach we needed to cross the Umngazi River, which separates the resort from the sandy dunes. One can swim in the river as no crocodiles nor hippos are living here. However, one has to be very careful swimming in the ocean. Recently they were four shark attacks along this stretch of the coast. As Nui and Nenad were enjoying the beach a group of dolphins passed by relatively close to the shore. Along the beach a couple of donkeys and a herd of cows were also enjoying the breeze. In South Africa it seems the co-existence of people and animals is on a different level than the coexistence of people with people across racial and tribal borders. Crossing the river back to
the resort, where breakfast was awaiting, fish eagle, seagulls and other birds were hunting their breakfast, stalling the in-flight waiting to spot a fish and then, like a flesh, diving from 4 or 5 meters height into the water. Impressive technique.
Wanting to kayak the river in the afternoon and hiking the famous Hole in the Wall hike the next morning, we were surprised by a storm front moving in from the direction of Mozambique. All bad things come from Mozambique, Zimbabwe or Nigeria we were told. And this front was huge. The weather forecast for the next days was rain non-stop for the entire region of the Wild Coast !!! Wild indeed it is here. We were reminded on St Lucia and its intense rain there. It was time to alter our plan and drop the total five days we wanted to kayak, hike and surf in Umngazi, Coffee Bay and Chintsa. “A plan is worth nothing, planning everything”, said once General Eisenhower, commander of the Allied forces. We decided to skip all stops affected by the tropical storm. This meant driving app. 650 km South towards the sunshine where the famous Garden Route starts. Precisely that we
did early next morning.
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