Christmas? Tamkharit, Mosquitoes

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CHRISTMAS?
If I had expected to notice any signs of Christmas here, I would have been very disappointed. I counted exactly two clues of the symbols that blanket the stores, neighborhoods, and homes of my past Christmases. There was one stall in the market with a 3-foot high inflatable Santa and one Christmas tree about the same size, with few decorations, in one store. There was a festive atmosphere, but it is pretty much what happens when people have time off because schools and businesses close a couple of days.

On the 25th the lady who does my laundry (by hand) who had not come earlier in the week as I expected came and washed. I could also hear work on various construction sites in the area.

Perhaps because of the lack of reminders, I felt only slight twinges of missing the holidays with family and friends. I would have had to consciously focus on what is going on without me or think of what I had enjoyed in the past for loneliness or nostalgia to set in. I'm not going there.

TAMKHARIT
One major celebration did happen December 26th. This is the day of Muslim New Year, called Tamkharit in Senegal, by other names elsewhere. The tradition is to go to mosque early in the day. In the evening is a feast. Couscous is the main dish, with tasty meat, chicken, veggies, spices, and a sweet hint from raisins. To prepare for plenty in the new year each family gives away as much or more than they cooked, making everyone have overabundance. There were many women taking food to others, as usual in metal pans, wrapped in fabric, on top of their heads. The additional twist was that many were on scooter taxis. Whenever I have to ride one I hold on to the metal seat pretty firmly. Since the balancing is a feat these ladies had both hands on their bundles precariously

Once dark a trick-or-treat time began. Children (and not a few adults) go around costumed, mostly with boys as girls, girls as boys, some in white-face. They beat "drums" which could be buckets, cans, bottles. There may be a little song and dance, for which they receive a treat. It was some uncooked couscous where I was. Festive and amusing.

BZZZZZZ
Sometimes little things capture our attention the most. Mosquitoes are getting a disproportionate amount of mine. Especially at night. My room is well screened. I am careful to close the door quickly when I go in or out. Those suckers still stay unendingly present. That they sneak in is not a great surprise, that they have gotten more noticeable is strange. It has not rained once since I arrived in Kaolack more than 7 weeks ago. It's not just me who is a spoiled foreigner. One Senegalese man came late to class saying he had to go buy a fan because mosquitoes kept him from sleeping at night.

I would like to avoid chemicals against mosquitoes since Raid cannot be too great for human health. Adding a lemon scent does not make me want to breathe it. I resort to mosquito coils at times. I keep my ceiling fan on even when it is cool. Still there can be that exasperating buzzing in my ear in the night.

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