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Published: February 12th 2008
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When I was a kid, Dr. Suess' "One Fish Two Fish Red Fish Blue Fish" was a personal favorite. How I developed a fear of fish - live or dead - as an adult is a bit perplexing. Now this fear does not extend to eating the little guys. I enjoy them (particularly Flounder, Tilapia and Salmon) grilled, fried and pretty much any way you can serve them. But to actually touch them is another story!
So it was with a little trepidation and a lot of curiosity that I headed out to Soumbedioune, a fish market on the beach in Dakar. You can find people milling around the area most of the afternoon but the joint really gets jumping around 5pm just as the sun is starting to set. Dozens upon dozens of fishermen drag in their catch of some of the most unique and even beautiful fish I've ever seen.
The delectable (not!) odor of fish mingled with the sweet, salty smell of the sea smacks you in the face before you can even get close enough to see what all the hubbub is about. And oh what a loud, fun, stinky, overwhelmingly exciting experience it is! As fishermen
in their boats (les pirogues) are arriving from the sea young boys, and others on the beach, grab hold of the nets full of flip-flopping fish and drag them ashore. Women arrange the day's catch into neat piles and shoppers meander through the throngs of boats, vendors and fish to make their selections. Just like any other market in Dakar, it is important to know exactly what you're in the market for BEFORE you actually arrive because there are roving vendors there who will try to sell you everything from calling cards to batteries to tube socks and nail clippers....oh yes, and fish.
On this particular trip to Soumbedioune I am looking for shrimp so that my friend, Awa, can prepare Salade Chinoise - a delicious concoction of shrimp sauteed with onions, garlic and tomatoes and served over a steaming plate of vermicelli. No, not exactly a Senegalese dish but because I am a creature of habit (at least when it comes to cuisine) I could eat Salade Chinoise at least once a day everyday. My friend, Vincent, an avid and passionate fisher, accompanies me for the trip and I learn more than I ever thought possible about the different
types of fish available in Dakar.
The best, most sought after fish is the Badesh. (And a few nights later I realize why as I'm thoroughly enjoying fresh, grilled Badesh with friends.) I saw rainbow colored Mackerel (Maquereau en Francais), Grondin, which look like orange frogs with fins and five-foot long Baracuda's with their big eyes and sharp teeth. I made some new friends, took a few pics and walked away with about 7 pounds of shrimp at an excellent price!!
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Walle A.
non-member comment
Glad you're enjoying yourself
Congratulation on the blogsite. Great story and beautiful writing about fish and life from the coast of Senegal. I'm gald you are having fun, eating fish and loving it. Stay strong, take care and best regards. Walle A.