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Published: June 14th 2008
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I am convinced that Namibia must be one of the most beautiful places on earth. The landscape is epical: the notorious Skeleton Coast, the world's oldest desert, world class wildlife reserves, the world's second largest canyon, some of the world's highest sand dunes... A place diverse as it is beautiful.
When I last blogged, I had just arrived in Windhoek, Namibia's capital. After so many nights in a tent, we had the luxury of a night's stay in hostel accomodation. YES - a PROPER bed! It meant so much to me I think I could have cried. Tenting is great fun but not for extended periods - believe me!
That night, we went to Joe's Beer House - a reknowned Windhoek establishment specialising in game. Everything here smacked German: no more telling than the fact that Jaegermeister was the drink of choice. I may have over indulged on the old 'Jaegey' - later that evening, instead of the gents, I wandered into the ladies and caused a small riot. As for eating, I opted for the Gemsbok - a rather delicious antelope type creature - not too 'gamey' and perfectly, melt-in-the-mouth, tender.
From Windhoek, we headed north to
the Etosha National Park. The Park covers an area of 22,912 squared km. "Etosha" means 'The Great White Place'. This is a reference to the Etosha Pan covering some 4,731 squared metres - now a mostly dry clay floor which at one time formed (if I remember rightly) a great lake. What Etosha is famous for is its flood lit water holes. The optimum viewing times are early morning and early evening. At the Halali camp, while sat looking on (glass in hand of course) I clocked a leopard and two rhinos come drink from the waterhole. Also, on an early morning game drive, we saw elephant, zebra, ostrich, giraffe, hyena and so much more. Some wildlife pics are attached for your delectation.
We spent two nights at Etosha. Our first evening meal was interesting. My truck team was responsible for cooking. Huge stress and drama involved. We were basically left to our own devices and had to prepare a meal for 21 people, some of whom were vegetarian (troublemakers, i tell you!). No real assistance was afforded by the overland tour crew. I certainly am not averse to doing chores but it is a lot to expect a
meal of this scale to be prepared unaided. Just knowing how much food to chop/boil/cook was pure guesswork. In fact we ended up not quite preparing enough. Poor Kerry was last to go fetch her meal and there really was not a lot left - I ended up having to give her some of mine. More significantly though, there was an assumption on the part of the tour crew that we were all proficient in food hygiene. Basics such as keeping certain foods and utensils and chopping boards separate on account of meat preparation were not gone over. Recipe for disaster if you ask me (- no pun intended!). By the end of the night I was in a real strop about this, venting my views freely, to all and sundry, fuelled by local beer of course.
Our next Namibian stopover was in Spitzkoppe - a place where 700 million year old granite peaks spring up from surrounding dappled plains. This place is mindblowing. A striking contrast to the bush of the Etosha pan. A departure from almost all shades of green. Here, you feel like you've walked into the set of Bedrock. I could almost hear Fred Flintstone
Etosha National Park
The waterhole at Halali camp. cry 'WILLLLLLMAAAAA'!
We had one night of proper bush camp at Spitzkoppe - i.e no facilities, no flushing loos, no showers - just the great outdoors. Round the campfire, after our evening meal, we warmed ourselves up (you would not believe how the temperature drops here!) on 'Mocharullas'! This is a hot alcoholic beverage consisting of coffee, cocoa powder and the scrumptious South African liqueur, Amarulla (very much like Bailey's but better I think).
Bedtime at Spitzkoppe was interesting. We attempted to spend the night sleeping under the stars. A great idea at the time and it really was quite something tucked up in a sleeping bag with the galaxies on show above. However, due to extreme cold and dampness, we aborted the outdoor malarkey as early as 12.30am. Back in the tent, while I was able to warm up and catch some sleep, poor Kerry, with a significantly inferior sleeping bag, was as frozen as an ice pole. As chivalrous as I like to think I am, I'm afraid I did not offer her my more hardy sleeping bag. I know - shame on me! At least we all enjoyed a cooked breakfast in the morning. French
toast and beans. Not a combination I'm au fait with but hot and edible which was all that mattered.
Waving goodbye to Spitzkoppe, we were back on the road again and this time heading coastwards to Swakopmund. On the way down, we made a short stop at Cape Cross to see the Seal Colony. Here, literally thousands of seals congregate - some basking on the beach, some bobbing on the shore waters. What I hadn't realised was how noisy seals can be! Seriously, the most profound din and a whole lot of loving of the sound of their own grunts and yelps. Oh and the smell! Get too close... the fishy-ness is nauseating. Still, very very cute - especially the seal pups.
Right. That's enough for one entry. As for what went down in Swakopmund and other tales from Namibia, tune in soon for 'Namibia: Part II'.
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