From Swaziland we entered Mozambique with surprising ease and were glad that we had taken the time to organise our visas in advance. The three Yankees who hadn't thought to do this had to wait about 45 minutes and also had to endure the impatient stares and mutterings of the local passengers. Although we only crossed a political border the landscape and atmosphere changed immediately. It became even more tropical with mangrove swamps, palm trees and banana plantations yet at the same time remained quite rugged and barren. Scattered everywhere were shells of buildings, derelict villages and burnt out and or stripped down cars, all remnants of the very recent civil war that ravaged Mozambique for nearly 20 years. Before we knew it we were in Maputo and after giving our mini bus driver the golden
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