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Published: December 9th 2008
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22 Oct - we leave South Africa and cross the border...eventually, into Mozambique. One of the more chaotic borders and as only Livie and I have visas, it's a long, hot wait while the rest of the guys get their visas and passports stamped.
Interesting change in countryside. Poverty is instantly more apparent, scattered single storey houses, villages rather than towns and cities and more chaotic driving. We arrive at the campsite late afternoon to find 3 extremely cute collie dogs. I'm in my element playing with them, sooooo cute. Very windy night (and that's not due to the pap we have for dinner - a white, mealie African dish, cross between rice and mashed potato!) so we head to the bar. Very drunken, the first one of this part of the trip though. Involves lots of Jagermeister, Amarula, wine and beer. Stagger back to tent about 1.30am.
23 Oct - Long drive in the rain to Inhambane, a vibrant wee town with lots of street vendors, wee painted shacks as shops which are 'sponsored' by M-Cel and Vodacom, one storey houses but with some larger Portuguese type architecture for the municipal buildings. Women work the fields, look after
First night in Mozi
Sheepdogs in our Mozi campsite the children and collect the water which they carry on their heads.
We arrive at Barra Lodge. Wow, paradise! We're on the shore of the Indian Ocean staying in the bunkhouse but able to use all the 5 star facilities of the hotel. Head for a cider, lounge by the pool and enjoy being waited on, lol. Sign up for snorkelling the next day then head back to help with kitchen duty. Steak from the braai, mashed tatties, butternut squash and a v tasty spinach / feta and onion mix....Janet's cooking rocks! My i-pod provides the entertainment for the evening, oh dear, more Marti Pellow anyone??? It's a challenge getting into my top bunk with no ladders and all for the pleasure of a hot, sticky, mozi-infested night under a net which has seen better days and has various elastoplasts holding it together.
24 Oct - long lie, stroll along the beach then a leisurely brunch of mushrooms and bacon, yum. Head off to the dive centre for our snorkelling ocean safari. A cute Irish guy called Ricky looks after us, I struggle into a wetsuit for the first time in my life, flippers and snorkel mask, ready
to go. There are 17 of us perched on the side of the boat with our feet strapped in holding tight to the ropes. It's an exhilarating ride and then we spot our first whaleshark...the idea is that if / when we spot them, we all jump over the side and swim with them. In practice however, DISASTER. Having (a) never snorkelled (b) never swam in the ocean / with a current and waves before I completely panic, swallow v salty water and can't breath. Splutter and wave my arms until some kind guy helps me back onto to the boat, what a wuss!! I decide there and then that snorkelling is not for me and just enjoy the rest of the boat trip. We see several more whalesharks which is an amazingly rare sight as well as some dolphins. We are due to snorkle at the reef but it's teeming with jellyfish so that idea is scrapped, phew!
Once back on dry land I chillout beside the pool with Charlie then have a spot of retail therapy and buy a wild African print frock for Janet's forthcoming fancy dress birthday party. Head to the beach for Sheila's yoga
session but end up having a few Savanna's and climbing the palm tree trunk instead. Head back to bunkhouse for a fantastic seafood dinner, caught fresh that morning from our beach of squid, kingprawns and snoek. A few of us finish the night with a carry on on the beach with wine and rum.
25 Oct - LONG drive, back along the same coastal road we came, passed Inhambane and the happening town of Xai-Xai. Drive passed a Saturday afternoon cavalcade of music blaring, political slogans and Miss KFC 2008, how bizarre. Arrive in the Mozi capital of Maputo on Saturday evening. Strange city, a few run-down looking high rise buildings, general African biz and pouring with rain. Check in to Maputo Backpackers, a cosy arrangement with 10, yes 10 of us in a MIXED dorm. Charlie and I decide that the only way to survive the night / snoring / Isaac's early wake up call is to stay out partying....
We head to Costa do Sol restaurant for a group dinner. I share some samosas with Charlie, a prawn curry and a bottle of Nederburg (my fave SA wine) sauv blanc...to myself. Everyone else heads back to
the hostel but Charlie and I jump in a taxi to Coconuts, a club that has been recommended to us. However, it doesn't open until 11pm so we head to the casino next door, have some food, a beer, get declined access to the club (coz Charlie's wearing flip flops - he's NOT amused) then head back to Coconuts. We get into the VIP area of the club and spend the evening drinking, drinking and people watching. It's about 80% blacks in the club, quite a young crowd good music and no trouble. Drink far too much 2M beer, Jager and Baileys and think we get back to hostel about 5am...
26 Oct - I am completely unconscious. Can't remember climbing onto top bunk but have slept through the rest of the dorm getting up, dressed, having pancakes for breakfast and its 1145 when I wake up. Only Charlie and I left, everyone else exploring Maputo. However, as it's Sunday most of the shops and the market are closed so we don't miss much. Attempt lunch...fail...go back to bed...get up at 6pm...still feel rough...struggle through dinner...early night.
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