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Published: February 5th 2008
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On the way up from Bushmens Nek police post
The oldest nature reserve in Lesotho, Sehlabathebe is remote and rugged, with an average elevation of 2,400 metres. It is almost inaccessible, but incredibly beautiful, with some shy antelope and rare birds.Sehlabatebe Nature reserve. Jan/Feb 2008
This is the oldest nature reserve in Lesotho, Sehlabathebe is remote and rugged, with an average elevation of 2,400 metres. and covers more than 65 000 hectares of mountainous grassveld. There are no trees here which makes it a unique wilderness area of valleys teaming with plants, herbs, shrubs, wild orchids and extravagant flowers. It is almost inaccessible, but incredibly beautiful, with some shy antelope and rare birds. The best way to get there is by horseback, 25 km from Bushmens Neck police post. I drove from Durban (sea level) at 05h00 and arrived at Bushmens Nek police post at 09h00. The Policeman on duty made a phone call and my guide and horse were ready within half an hour and they were rather keen to get going. I passed the guide my weighty tripod and camera bag and I happily agreed to take my 65 kg backpack up into the Lesotho Highlands, Within 3 hrs we had quickly climbed 2450m. Making it a journey total of 7 hrs from Durban to Sehlabatebe.
The horse ride is strenuous so be sure to travel lite, unfortunately this is almost imposible as the park has no food nor
Red hot poker
these plants are abundant along the valley electricity. When I arrived at the park I quickly put up my tent in front of the dam which is surrounded by weeping willow trees. In the horizon dark grey clouds drew and the wind changed direction. The rain lashed down and the lightening whipped across the sky in broad daylight all within 15 minutes. The guide kept on telling me that here in the park they often have 4 seasons in one day so be prepared. It then began to hail mini golf balls and I prayed that my tent would withstand a Lesotho highland hailstorm. My prayers worked and I was soon out of the tent ready for a scout up to the infamous Rock pools.
These stagnent rockpools lie high above the mysteriously carved sandstone shaped rocks at the foothills of the Three Bushmen mountain range. Khashole people once lived here and used the natural caves to live in and shelter their big livestock. The Kashole built small stone houses imbedded into the natural caves. In these pools grows an endemic white lily called the Motebo, their numbers are diminishing every year. Tadpoles, water spiders and dragonflies make these pools their summer homes. The best time of
Mysterious Rock pools
these pools lie beneath the Three Bushman Mountain range day to view this site is late afternoon as the sun sets behinds Black mountain (mountain of the Lammergeier) creating spectacular reflections in the still rockpools.
Be sure to walk down the valley towards the Toeslikana falls. The sounds of the birds and croaking frogs became louder as I meandered down the oxbow laked valley. This valley is covered with thick grass and marshlands often encountering rare flowers growing on the valley walls. Hundreds of birds fly up and down this valley feeding on flying insects including the giant blue Dragonfly. As you turn around the bend beneath the soaring Frog mountain awaits a group of deep pools to swim in before making the final decent to the falls. In this lush valley I came across many species of birds including the Grey crowned Heron, Cape Vulture, Long tailed widow (in abundance), Jackall Buzzard, Cape eagle owl, Black egret, Grey-wing Francolin, pied Kingfisher and many species of the sunbird to name a few. Mammals included the very shy Eland, Reedbuck, baboons, shrews and Cape brown mice. Reptiles included various Armadillo Rock lizards including the Crag and miniature bloukop. Down the gorge Snakes are abundant with plenty of rodents, marshnesting birds
Tsoelikana falls
impressive 60 metre drop and lizards. Rinkals or now called the Ring necked cobra can be often be seen slithering into deep cracks along the deep river gauged banks. The puff Adder is now uncommon but it said to be seen basking on open flat rocks further down the Tsoelikana river gorge.
The tsoelikana falls are deep so if youre the adventurous type the 60m jump into the pool below can be a rewarding experience. Be sure to visit the falls early to get the best of the sun as the Tsoelikana river is fresh all year round.
The park boasts over 65 sites of bushmen paintings and the breeding ground of the Cape eland. Sehlabatebe Park is well preserved and it is best viewed in Novemeber and December when animals slowly move up from Giants Castle and Underberg to faunicate and graze in the lush valleys of one of Lesotho's best kept secrets, The Sehlabatebe Nature reserve.
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Wildacad
Denis ANANIADIS
Stunning Den
Well done!