Our son, our soil!

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Ok, brief update since the last blog: work, day trip to Malindi about 2 hours North from Mombasa, 1 week in Nairobi on a training course for new (ish) volunteers and to contract nasty bugs and stuff, back to Mombasa with 5 new volunteers for the Coast province, some more work, Kenya went/ is going insane over the US elections, another nasty bug and a trade fair.

Also, and most worryingly, the crows opposite my balcony have produced a seriously ugly crow-let and are incredibly protective over it. I can’t go on to my balcony during daylight unless I have a broom as protection from them swooping and flapping their wings at me - hanging the washing is now a seriously dangerous occupation. It’s quite big now so I’m hoping it will learn to fly or fall out the nest or something and then I can enjoy my outside space again.

The last week of October was spent at the Methodist Guest House (sigh) at VSO’s In-Country Training for new volunteers. As well as about 10 new arrivals there were around 5 of us who have been in the country since August taking part so we were able to share our “experience” and reassure the new arrivals that VSO prepare you for the worst and that a lot of people don’t face any issues at all during their placements. (Although I don’t think I’ve met any of these fabled people). The week was a mix of language, culture, Nairobi orientation, safety, medical and a partner workshop for colleagues to join. The latter part was for us all to explore issues central to how VSO operate: good governance & corruption, HIV/AIDS workplace programming, monitoring & evaluation, management recourse, specific programme areas, etc etc.

It was pretty well organised but obviously the best part was meeting the other volunteers and getting to hear what they are/ will be doing. Rooms were shared so it was pretty easy to get to know each other, although I felt pretty sorry for my roommate when I got sick with various (now cured) infections/ bugs. Last time I was in Nairobi I didn’t appreciate how good the hot showers were. Of course in Mombasa they’re unnecessary, but on the 9 hour bus journey from the coast it’s really possible to feel the temperature and humidity drop and a steamy shower at the end was heaven! In addition to this, the MGH experience was vastly improved thanks to the discovery of a bar opposite. Unsurprisingly a few of us were there every night enjoying the different atmosphere and beverages available. Fantastic! I’ll never moan about the MGH again!

Of the new volunteers in the Coast province, one lives about 2 hours north in Watamu, another about 2 hours west in Voi, one lives about 10 minutes away from me and the other 2 live just on the other side of Mombasa island around the delightful Likoni (ahem). There was a get together last Sunday for the existing volunteers to meet the new ones and everyone except Gery in Watamu was able to make it. We also managed to spend the day before in a bar in town watching some premiership football with some cold Tuskers and topped it off with an Indian later in the evening. Life is tough sometimes...

To be honest though, life in Kenya has been dominated recently by one issue. Kenya is in the grip of a political phenomenon. The momentum has been building slowly for years; roads and schools renamed, t-shirts and caps printed, speeches listened to and repeated in every corner bar. Half the country is claiming kinship to this guy. His influence is such that he dominates every news channel, every daily and weekly paper and other world events can only dream of getting a look in -global financial meltdown, anyone? This year the most popular name for male babies in Western Kenya is Raila, after Raila Odinga, Prime Minister of Kenya? No, of course not! It’s his Luo brethren, Barack Obama, Kenya’s favourite son and president-elect of the US.

“Obamania” has had Kenya in its thrall for several years now and the nation’s attachment grew exponentially as the 4th November approached. People yelled “Vote Obama” to me in the streets and when I tried to explain that I couldn’t (because I am British), they didn’t understand and asked if I was for McCain. I learnt to nod and smile at every mention of Obama - a much easier and less antagonising solution. The morning his victory was announced I passed cars flying his face on the way to work whilst in the matatu. One guy disembarked the minibus by hanging on to the open door whilst it was still moving pretty quickly and threw himself off yelling “Obama! Obama!”. It’s a new prayer now too apparently! I guess it goes without saying that Kibaki the Kenyan president announced the next day as a public holiday for Kenyan’s to celebrate their son’s victory. The only minor annoyance was that Uganda, with a tiny Luo community, announced a 2 day public holiday. There were unconfirmed rumours of 5 days in Nigeria, but most didn’t comment on that.

Like most of the free world I am happy to see a Democrat in the Whitehouse and am especially happy that America proved us all wrong and managed to open its mind and elect a black man to their highest office within a century of the American civil rights movement. If this guy can’t help heal the many, many problems facing planet earth at present then I don’t know who can. But I can’t quite muster the same enthusiasm of the average Kenyan towards the election of a government official in a whole other hemisphere. I guess I am a little sceptical about their reasons for excitement. Many people are genuinely happy to see a black man take the most powerful position on earth and a Kenyan (half-Kenyan) no less! But some people are expecting life to change dramatically in this country because of this election. Whether it’s through increased investment or aid to Kenya or even relaxed visa rules to visit the US, many are expecting, as culture here dictates, a kitu kidogo, or a little something, from the election of a brother to high office. I don’t want to be around when they are disappointed when the most-hyped man the world has ever been presented with fails to deliver on promises he never made.

On a less serious note I’ve been to a couple of parties in the last few weeks and have even made it to some bars and clubs. In fact last night after spending the day at a Trade Fair where Solwodi had a stall (and won the best stall prize, woo hoo!) we went for an Indian then on to the cinema for a bit of 007 action. The cinema experience here is exactly like at home except for 2 things. Firstly the cinema was clean and the chairs were comfy - no sticking to the floor. Secondly the ads are fantastic! Before they start the national anthem plays (stand please) but once they get going the entertainment is great. My favourite is one for a pawn shop (not porn) where a guy who can’t pay his rent is encouraged to go exchange all his worldly goods for wads of cash with a view to “keeping the wife happy”. The last shot is of him and his wife drinking champers with the rent-demanding -letting-agent and laughing about how much money they have. No mention of paying it back or failure penalties. In fact the general idea seemed to be “bring us your stuff and we’ll give you cash that you can spend on booze”. Er, right, ok then.

Weirdly enough when we were at Tembo’s (bar, disco and sole pole dancing club in Coast province) later that night there was a mid-evening floor show in the club (rasta guys in pink on a big pole) and the same advert was screened before and after. I love the idea of being in somewhere like the Funky Buddha at home, the DJ stopping at 1 for a floor show (flaming poi maybe?) and prior to the dreadlocked babes coming out, they get one of those loan consolidation adverts out and screen it on the wall to all the pilled-up clubbers. Nice! Aside from that it was a pretty fun place and there wasn’t too much hassle or anything from guys although I did end up dancing with someone who kept whispering “shake what you mama gave you”. Good, but not as good at the chat-up line my friend experienced: “How tall are you?” (To be fair the guy was nearly 7’ but even so, it’s a shit line).

I’ve just realised that this blog is quite long so I am going to make more effort to write more regularly in future - promise!

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