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Published: February 3rd 2011
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Well iphones have gone even lower in my opinion, not only can it get no reception in the whole of Ethiopia, now the alarm has broken! So I overslept by 45mins and had a mad rush to the airport without breakfast. The streets are filled again with women in shawls off to church, not sure what the men do. Another day, another saint, I later find out that it is Saint Tekla Haimanot day. He is the man that stood praying on one leg for 7 years until the other one fell off, urgh! He was made a saint and given 3 pairs of wings. Luckily, as I'm very late, the airport is as relaxed as Bahir Dar so we aren't even allowed through security until 10mins before the plane arrives, Security is slightly less strict, they just need to look at my cameras not turn everything on. The flight is once again less than 30mins, so no time for napping. At Aksum (or Axum???) I find my guide by shouting out my tour company, it seems to be the thing to do, they are all too busy chatting to put up signs for their clients. The first stop is the
hotel but they have given my upstairs room to someone else, they have downstairs rooms available but my guide says they are lower quality and attract the mosquitoes, so we find another hotel. Very good that he mentioned it, I have had other guides in Africa who try and sneakily downgrade you to save money!!
On with the tour and off to the Stelae field. Aksum is full of archaeological finds and at least 80% is still yet to be discovered under the ground. The Stelae field has made it easier to find tombs in this area as the huge obelisks mark the spot. Many are plain, but the special ones have decorative carvings on each side, depicting windows, roof/ceiling joists and a front door with knocker. It is believed that they had decorative metal plates are the top, but these have either been stolen or fallen off and destroyed. One of the obelisks, the most decorative and well preserved, was stolen by the Italians, but was finally returned in 2005. The mystery is how the Ethiopians transported these huge pieces of rock from the quarry, carved such precise artwork and then erected the great weights over 1500 years ago.
My guide believes it was rolling logs and elephants, but a trainee guide I speak to over lunch believes the mounds of earth technique although as a child his father always told him that there were devils, smaller than humans, in the air, that were commanded by God to move the rock.
The largest obelisk, the Great Stelae, has fallen over and is in broken pieces. It is believed it fell during erection as the base is much too short for the height of the rock. Under this ruin is the entrance to the mausoleum, an underground tomb which has been partially excavated, a single piece stone arch marks the entrance to the tombs.
Towards the back of the Stelae field is a museum explaining the archaeology of the area and displays many clay, glass, metal and bone items found through excavation. The most informational finds have been the Aksumite coins depicting the emperors. This has allowed researchers to determine the chronology of the rulers.
Walking further through the Stelae field there is a new church and many more undecorated obelisks. Out the far end is a huge pool of muddy water, this is known as Queen Sheba's bath. It
fills during the rainy season and local women collect the water for washing. It is unknown of its original purpose, it is also unknown whether the Queen of Sheba really existed.
As there are many monasteries I cannot visit because women are banned, my guide finds a place I can visit. I am lucky that it is Saint Tekla Haimanot day as a church dedicated to him is open for the day. All sights in Aksum are included in the one ticket, so we buy that and then take a short drive to this church. The monk opens the doors for me and I take a look at the paintings. The exciting part of this one is that I'm allowed in the centre section reserved for priests. The most decorative paintings are in here.
Most churches close between 12 and 14:30 so time for a rest in the hotel. For the afternoon we first visit the Queen of Sheba's Palace, this is a few km to the west of town. The palace walls that can be seen are actually on top of a much older structure, but as the above ground palace is over 1000 years old, UNESCO will not
allow excavation below it to find the even older one. Some areas are deeper and have recently been dated to around 930BC. This nicely fits in with the story that the Queen of Sheba visited King Solomon in the 10th Century BC, as she was apparently ill, although that part of the story varies. She fell pregnant... and gave birth to Menelik I. He returned to Aksum with the Ark of Covenant bringing many Jews. There are still Jewish communities living around the hills of Aksum. Across the road are more stelae, one is rumoured to be above the Queen of Sheba's tomb!
Next we visit the St Mary of Zion Church, this was built by Haile Selassie, which is apparent from its 60s style. Inside it is quite sparse but does contain a 1000yr old bible which a man shows me a few pages of. I also learn that all churches have arks, if they don't they are just a building, not a church. The minimum is 3. Next to this newish church is a small museum, this houses many crowns, a diamond one of Haile Selassie's is very impressive, there is also one of solid gold. There are
royal and battle gowns, bibles, drums, prayer stick crosses etc. Next to this building are the ruins of the previous church thought to be built around the 6th Century. Next to this is the building I would really like to enter but is forbidden for everyone. The home of the Ark of the Covenant. It has one keeper who will remain in the building until his death, someone brings him food and he spends his time praying and blessing the Ark. A replica Ark is paraded around the church once a month to celebrate. My guide tells me that if the real Ark was brought out, there would be death and destruction everywhere as there are not enough pure hearts in the world today. Luckily, it will never be brought out, so we can all sleep safe... It is still a mystery if the ark still exists and if it does is it in that guarded building.
Final stop is a small park where stone items have been placed for display. The Italians moved many items when they were road building so now they have been placed in the park for everyone to see.
My tour for today is over
but I can hear the English football all around town so ask for a place to watch it. My guide takes me to a new cinema, I think entrance is about 5Birr, but my guide pays. I am the only tourist and only female, but it's good to watch on the big screen. Chelsea vs Aston Villa, a very exciting end. Next we go for dinner and beers at Ainet Hotel. My guide orders me a great injera platter, goat, chicken, beef and lots of the usual veg options. Way too much for me so he has some too. There is a TV on in most restaurants in Ethiopia and this one is showing the national news, the next story shows the cinema I have just been too! When my guide said it was new I didn't realise it had only been opened the day before!Then we go to a local bar, he opts for a 'medium' bar, i.e. not silent, and not too sleazy!! It is like someone's living room, just a few sofa type chairs and two girls serving beers from somewhere out in the back courtyard. There is local music playing and a drunk man comes in,
sits on his own and claps for beer. Clapping is the way to get a waiter's attention. He gets through beers much quicker than me and is soon up dancing. It starts with just a shoulder shake, but then he starts squatting low and shaking his bum, then he runs around like a cantering pony and walks back like a chicken. Everyone cheers so this must be a known dance! Hilarious to me!
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