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Asia » Indonesia » Flores » Bajawa May 31st 2024

After breakfast on our veranda, we are picked up by Francis and Chen and drive a short distance to Luba, another traditional village. This area is the territory of the Ngadanes tribe. We were a bit sceptical, having seen two already, but this village was completely different. It was arranged around a central ceremonial area which housed five spirit houses for female ancestors and five for male ancestors, with the inhabited houses ranged around this central area. As this is a matrilineal society, where women rule, the women get bigger and better spirit houses than the men. All the houses are still inhabited, and get rebuilt every 25 to 35 years, as this is the natural life of the timber. We walked from Luba to Bena, another village, followed for a while by three tiny puppies ... read more
Bena village 1
Bena village 2
Detail on tribal house

Asia » Indonesia » Flores » Ende May 30th 2024

Flores is unremittingly verdant. The west-east spine of the island is a continuous run of mountains and volcanoes, and the volcanic soil is of course extremely fertile. Even the steepest mountainsides where trees and the jungle normally struggle to survive tend to be covered in green vegetation. There is no airborne pollution as there are no factories or foundries, so the only sources of pollution are farmers' wood burning cooking fires, the ubiquitous motor bike, some people carriers for tourists, the very occasional 4WD or pickup truck for utility providers or official types, local buses and some trucks. We have not seen a single private car. There is no commercial advertising, no motor dealerships, and really no elements of what we are used to in a commercial economy apart from the occasional bank. It really is ... read more
100 year old Lionis woman
Wologai village 1
Statue of Sukarno

Asia » Indonesia » Flores » Moni May 29th 2024

Visitors come to Moni to see the crater lakes in the Kelimutu volcano which sits above the village of Moni. This is one of the fifteen or so active volcanoes in Flores. There are three lakes in the crater, and their claim to fame is that from time to time one or more of them changes colour – the water may be white, blue, green, red or black. The changes seem to be driven by changes in the gases bubbling up into the lakes from the magma chamber below. The local ethnic group are the Lio people to whom the lakes are sacred. As well as the lakes, various spirits also appear to be the central core of their belief system. Inter alia, how you have behaved in life and how old you are when you ... read more
Kelimuto crater lakes 2
Lio village traditional house
Lio village 1

Asia » Indonesia » Flores » Moni May 28th 2024

We met up with Francis, our guide for the next week, and set off for Moni. Francis explained that the endlessly winding road we were driving along is, in fact, the one and only ‘highway’ that links the east and west of the island, grandly titled the Trans Flores Highway. It resembles a minor B road in the UK, but has relatively little traffic apart from the multitudes of people on scooters. We first took a detour to visit Sikka Lela village, the site of the oldest Catholic church on the island, completed on Christmas Eve 1899. The door was locked and it transpired that new regulations require all visitors and worshippers to wear a sarong. Odd. Francis and our driver were given traditional sarongs which they wrapped round themselves, but we were issued with a ... read more
Koka beach 2
Koka beach
On the way to Moni

Asia » Indonesia » Flores » Maumere May 27th 2024

We had a 6.00am departure from Munduk to ensure we got to the airport in good time for our flight. The hotel offered a breakfast box, so we asked for a boiled egg and a smoked salmon sandwich, which seemed like the most transportable version of the excellent eggs Benedict we’d enjoyed the previous two mornings. After an hour or so of driving down out of the mountains through thick mist, we stopped at an empty restaurant which clearly catered for coach parties, and sat at one of the many empty tables to have our breakfast. We found we had 2 boiled eggs each and a toasted sandwich with salmon, tomato and melted cheese – tastier than it sounds. Plus granola and yogurt and a large fruit juice each. From there we made good time to ... read more
View from Coconut Beach
Mother and son
Beach sculpture

Asia » Indonesia » Bali » Munduk May 25th 2024

After arriving at the very crowded and bureaucratic Denpasar airport, we stayed overnight at the incredibly convenient Novotel airport hotel – the only hotel where you can take your airport luggage trolley all the way to your hotel room! . Next morning we set off for Munduk in the north of Bali. Getting through Denpasar was no quicker than it was six years ago. The city gradually gave way to villages, but with no break in the buildings. Our first stop was the Tanah Lot temple, one of the iconic pictures of Bali. The temple is on a small island connected to the mainland by a causeway which is accessible only at low tide, so we could only view it from the shore. There are a number of other temples in a small complex on the ... read more
Bali funeral bull
Jatiluwih rice terraces
Ulun Danu temple

Asia » Indonesia May 23rd 2024

SE Asia 2023 – Leg 8 of 8 – Indonesia Moving on and this time not a bus or train but a plane, the first transfer by air of the whole trip. Leaving the hotel at 11am we caught the SRT to Changi airport. We checked our big rucksacks in with no problem and went off to explore the airport, free cinema, butterfly garden, swimming pool, kids amusement park no wonder the locals come here for a day out!!. We grabbed some food and by 3.30pm we'd boarded our flight to Bali Indonesia. I’m not the best flyer especially in turbulence and we had turbulence for the full 3 hour flight….....great, Mel was taking the p**s all the way, but as the volcanoes of Bali appeared in the sunset skies I’d forgot about it and we’d ... read more
Kuta accomodation Bali
Kuta nightlife Bali
Sengiggi sea view Lombok

Asia » Indonesia » Bali May 19th 2024

Good morning from Congo! What a better time between two meetings to write about the past 18 months experience of being back to Asia! Yes, time flies...imagine, we moved to Bali already in September 2022! I always believe that you should spend a certain time in any place to feel home, and that you reach the best of the experience between the 18th month and 36th month. By that time you've made yourself really home. There is perhaps less new discoveries, but it's the nice feeling that you start to belong to the place. Here we are, 18 months and some more in Bali! My lovely wife is working a lot. Yes, island life doesn't mean holiday life everyday (sadly). But her normal week is a 5 days affair, so we have ample time to ourselves ... read more
Manta time, Nusa Penida...
Weekend brunch at the St Regis...
Top view for sunset at Karma Kandara...

Asia » Indonesia » Sulawesi » Bunaken National Park April 12th 2024

I did not summit the courage to do a night dive until I had already completed about 50 day dives, over a period of two years, at a number of dive locations and under varying current conditions. The fear factor of the unknown is indeed significant. But after eight night dives I am now fully embracing the opportunity to dive at night, and can strongly testify that night diving is not simply diving in the dark - it is in fact a completely different experience than diving in daylight. I can also understand now how many seasoned divers actually prefer it over day diving, particularly, it seems, as one acquires more and more dives. Many of the dive masters and instructors I have met prefer night diving. It is comparable to going on a safari, where ... read more
Brilliant Living Coral Garden
Beautiful Lobster
Sleeping Green Turtle

Asia » Indonesia » Bali » Sidemen April 10th 2024

When we arrived last night it was pitch black and we couldn't see the view at all. It was amazing to wake up to the most picturesque beautiful view and it looked even better than in the photos shown when booking. The room is huge, the view couldn't get any better and it's so peaceful. Just the sounds of frogs, crickets, birds and the ocassional rooster. The perfect choice! We headed for breakfast and had the most amazing smoothie bowl. Both Louie and I loved it. The juice here is amazing. Louie had watermelon juice and I Dragon fruit juice. The restaurant also has the perfect view. We then headed into town which is a good 30 min walk up hill. Yes we are so unfit it nearly killed us to the point Louie kept saying ... read more
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