After breakfast on our veranda, we are picked up by Francis and Chen and drive a short distance to Luba, another traditional village. This area is the territory of the Ngadanes tribe. We were a bit sceptical, having seen two already, but this village was completely different. It was arranged around a central ceremonial area which housed five spirit houses for female ancestors and five for male ancestors, with the inhabited houses ranged around this central area. As this is a matrilineal society, where women rule, the women get bigger and better spirit houses than the men. All the houses are still inhabited, and get rebuilt every 25 to 35 years, as this is the natural life of the timber. We walked from Luba to Bena, another village, followed for a while by three tiny puppies
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