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Starting to wind down from another amazing trip!!
After saying goodbye to Bhutan, it was a quick trip back to Delhi and then a short flight to Srinagar, for our 4 day visit. Srinagar is a city of 1.8million people in N. India in the Kashmir region, bordering Pakistan and China. It is known as the summer holiday capital due to the popularity of its houseboats on the Dal and Nigeen lakes. Unfortunately, the weather had changed before our arrival, bringing a record amount of rain. Also, the clouds obscured the surrounding snow-covered mountains, everything appearing quite wet and muddy. At home, we had considered going overland on the Srinagar to Leh mountain road, a solid 2-day drive. After watching a couple videos of it, and knowing we might be pushing the early spring, thankfully, we chose to fly. On the 2nd day, we drove part way up the road to Sontag only to have it start snowing on us. At that point, the road was closed, as we passed lines of trucks, on their way to Leh Ladakh, waiting for it to open. 10 days later, it finally opened!
We had a great stay at Mascot
houseboat, moored on the quieter Nigeen Lake. It was a 5 bedroom, opulent with its beautiful wood carvings throughout, colorful interiors and chandeliers. Immi, the great grandson of the owner, gave us an excellent introduction into the city, including a personal tour. But, the years have not been kind to Srinagar. The 'Kasmir conflict' continues between Pakistan and India, and within the area's desire for an independent territory. The area was stripped of its semi autonomy in 2019 which has not helped their situation. A very strong military presence has been established. With a 97% Muslim population, in Modi's very pro Hindu philosophy, little funds appear to make their way to the area. But everyone we met appreciates the current stability and would just like to get on with their lives.
After Srinagar, we flew to Leh, Ladakh. We had a beautiful clear day and great views as we flew over the Himalayas. Leh, with an elevation of 11,000+ feet, we definitely could feel the reduced oxygen. And the cold! The nights getting down to the low 30s. We spent 2 days in the city, enjoyed visiting a couple of the monasteries and just taking our time
adjusting to the elevation. Our 3rd night was spent outside the city, near Stok Palace, the site of the present King's home. We stayed at Chulli Bagh, a small lovely 4 stone cottages with an orchard of 100+ year old apricot trees. Although we missed the cherry blossoms in Tokyo, these apricot trees were in full bloom.
Then it was on to our road trip - over the Khardung la Pass, the highest motorable road pass in the world, at 17,982 to the beautiful Nubra Valley. The night before as we exchanged texts with our taxi driver, we were quite surprised when they asked how many oxygen cylinders we wanted?? Until then, I was probably a little more concerned with the busy mountain road we would be travelling. But fortunately, we both did great, up and over the pass and even enjoyed our stop at the top for some pics, sans oxygen. We were surprised how busy the road was, especially at times when meeting the large trucks. But we had a great driver and were very thankful we were not on any of the large local buses. Our trip to Nubra valley, over the pass was
on a Sunday, so at the time we did not realize how relatively quiet the road was. On our return midweek, there seemed to be 100s of road construction workers with large equipment trying to either widen the road or keep the road open. I can't imagine working with a pick and shovel at such elevations! We were very surprised with all the 'domestic tourists' as everyone described their fellow Indian travelers. In fact over the 10 days in both Srinagar and Ladakh, we saw very few other 'foreigners'.
Our stay in Nubra Valley was at Kyagar, another small guesthouse with beautiful individual stone cottages. Rinchen, part of the husband-wife team that have put their heart and soul into the property. They are both from the local area and are determined to provide a sustainable setting and assist with the local villages. A fascinating tour into a local home that is part of a women's coop. Our visits helped support their farming income, most of which is sold directly to the military. The entire valley is surrounded by the Khardong mountains, over 19,000 feet. We were very lucky with the weather this time, crystal blue skies, with
incredible views of the mountains, and dark star filled night skies. Some short hikes into the local hills, into the village and a visit to the local monastery filled the 2 days. Great accommodations, food and friendly staff. We would have loved to have stayed longer.
We both have always enjoyed Indian food. The Kashmiri and Ladakhi versions were all excellent. Eating mostly veg, we were continually amazed at the variations. The paneer dishes were delicious with the most flavorful gravies (sauces). At Kyager, the chef was a former chef at the Oberoi chain. I have attached a pic of one of the nights' menu. We enjoyed chhutagi, a Ladakhi pasta specialty in a delicious broth. And for lunch we enjoyed several momo dishes and delicious soups.
Back over the pass we went, with a last night in Leh, before our flight back to Delhi. Another clear beautiful view of the Himalayas on our return. We took a taxi straight to Agra, about 4 hour drive, for one more view of the Taj Mahal. We booked a sunrise tour, starting at 5:30am. Being low season, the Taj was not busy at all. We had
a great tour guide, who enjoyed not only telling us the history, but also knowing the best places for pics. To be able to just sit and stare at the beautiful building without hordes of people! The Taj still holds its magic!
Now in Delhi for our last night, flying back to Boise tomorrow. Another amazing trip!
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