China Beach

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Geo: 12.2453, 109.199

DAY SEVEN (1/9/13) — Transfer to Nha Trang

Patrick and I were both fans of the television show in the late 80s starring Dana Delaney called "China Beach"; it was set at an evacuation hospital near Danang during the Vietnam War and focused on non-war stories, including soldiers who headed to the Vietnam beaches along the South China Sea for R&R. I'm told the Vietnamese now refer to the body of water as the "East Sea". The Chinese called it the South Sea. And the Philippines call it the West Philippine Sea. I think it has an identity crisis.

Nha Trang (pronounced Nya Trang – as in rang) is one such beach. It is near the naval base and airport that played a critical role in the war: Cam Ranh. But I am getting ahead of myself.

At 6:15 this morning, we were still in Ha Long Bay, aboard the Bhaya III. There is a promise of tai chi. I actually go up to the “sun” deck to take photos but the wind is blustering, the rain is pouring and I am alone in a Gloucester-like storm.

Guide quote:
“Tai Chi is old man's disco.”

At 7 am is a continental breakfast and at 8 am we board larger rowboats than yesterday to tour the Sung Sot Surprise Cave, a sort of grotto. It could have been gorgeous in the sunlight, the emerald green the brochures promise, but it isn't going to happen for us today.

Supposedly, there are monkeys on the cliffs. Some claim to have seen then. I think the monkeys are like the tai chi … if I don't get a picture, it hasn't happened.

Luckily for me, I didn't miss any jaw-dropping photos this morning, despite the fact that the battery in my camera is dead. The recharged battery I inserted doesn't start the camera, so I have no way to take photos. (I have another battery and a back-up camera but they are still on the junk.) Silly me.

When we return to the ship, there is an elaborate but not very tasty brunch. Something called calamari tastes more like muddy catfish and deviled crab in crab shells looks appealing but isn't. I turn to the bacon and eggs, along with Vietnam's famous sticky white rice.

When we return to the ship there is an elaborate but not very tasty brunch. Something called calamari tastes more like muddy catfish and deviled crab in crab shells looks appealing but isn't.. I turn to the bacon and eggs, along with Vietnam's famous sticky white rice.

We check out and depart the cruise ship for a transfer back to Hanoi. Along the way, we stop in a small village called Dong Minh, to view rural Vietnamese life up close. There are water buffalo, rice farmers and more. One man, a wounded American War veteran (we call it the Vietnam War; they call it the American War), invites us into his home for tea. He has many traditional items like tea pots and lanterns next to his dish TV. There are roosters and chickens on the porch. It is a culturally enriching experience. I'm not kidding.

We stop at a large store (not quite as nice as the one we stopped at yesterday on the way to Ha Long Bay) with very cold, very outdoor bathrooms. Much grousing among the ladies. Lunch is pho, a tasty noodle soup that is a staple of Vietnamese life. It is essentially beef stock with thick rice noodles, along with meat, herbs and other optional flavorings. I enhance mine with freshly squeezed lime and VERY hot sliced red peppers. Yummy. Now it is time to shop. The store is filled with lovely items but anyone who had shopped in Hanoi quickly realizes these prices are quite high so few purchases are made.

There is a run on hand-held old-fashioned Asian fans. One person who is reading my blog suggested I purchase one before getting to steamy Angkor Wat – I shared the suggestion with my old and new friends. Joe Adorjan negotiated a group rate for us. They are a bargain; they are beautiful and they should prove functional and a great souvenir.

We head to Hanoi airport where we catch a Vietnamese Airlines flight to Nha Trang for our next adventure. Airline food is our dinner. We transfer 45 minutes from the airport to the Nha Trang beaches. Our hotel is the Evason Ana Mandara, a five-start resort, the only one on the beach. The resort is lush and you can hear the waves of the South China Sea as we head to our lovely rooms.

The rest of the evening is spent doing some small laundry, getting laundry ready to go to the hotel service, showering and computering. I am way behind on my blog.

All in all, I have to say, this was not one of our best travel days. The surprise cave this morning would have been nicer with sun or monkeys or a battery in my camera. These are luxury problems, not Tauck's.

But we tolerated four pretty mediocre meals. Long hours on the bus. Unacceptable lavatories. Inadequate shopping. And a lot of luggage toting. Fourteen hours from breakfast to hotel check-in this evening, with little to show for it except a surprise stop at an interesting village. Me thinks this is a day that needs a little of Tauck's attention.

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Photos

Surprise Cave
Ha Long Bay
Photo by Dianna Adorjan

Grotto -- supposedly with Langur monkeys
You look and see if you can find them.
Photo by Dianna Adorjan

Comments

[Kathryn Crandall]

Ouch......Hope the future holds a better photo, shopping and weather opportunities! You and Patrick are quite the "troopers", though!:)

[Barcy]

Carl and others have told me how docile the Water buffalos are. Little boys apparently herd them with sticks and ferocious orders . Not like the similar looking Cape Buffalos we saw in Africa if this is true.

[mary ann]

I'd take a pass on your activities today. My nap sounds much more inviting:-)

[Debbie Gutterson]

Hang in there you guys. the Resorts on the South China Sea called China Sea now are terrific!

[Nancy Ackenhausen]

Sometimes it's the little discoveries, like how the Vietnamese call it the "American War" that make travel so meaningful.

[spoonball]

Love the beach, even though we have our own in Florida!

[cdnski12]

The ex-French colonies of Vietnam, Laos & Cambodia have really good Baguettes available everywhere. I always travel with a few cans of tuna on my local bus tours. You can always find a beer, the Tuna is back up. Baguettes are usually ve
ry good.