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Published: June 13th 2017
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Toledo, Spain is NOT like being in Toledo, Ohio
Monday, October 10, 2016
DAY FIFTEEN
"Saturday night in Toledo, Ohio is like being nowhere at all.
All through the day how the hours rush by, you sit in the park and you watch the grass die."
--John Denver
I always thought the lyrcs to John Denver's “Toledo, Ohio” were quite clever. Today we visited the Ohio city's sister city: Toledo, Spain. And it's like being everywhere. In fact, there's a street named “Calle de Toledo de Ohio.”
We traveled out of Madrid by bus this morning, headed to the ancient city set on a hill above the plains of central Spain. It was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1986 for its extensive cultural heritage and historical co-existence of Christian, Muslim and Jewish cultures.
First up was a drive to a high road to take in the city's skyline – magnificent. The city has natural boundaries on three side and an impressive wall on the fourth. Many of the ancient buildings still dot the skyline. We took loads of photos.
It was also the home of Spanish Master El Greco (Greek painter, sculptor and architect of the Spanish Renaissance). El Greco's The Burial of the Count of Orgaz
is widely considered among his finest works. It was painted here and remains here in its original location. It is very clearly divided into two sections, heaven above and earth below. Our guide explained that it was also a family portrait – he painted all of his family members, including himself, into this exceptionally large painting.
The history of the city dates back to the Bronze Age and there are many remains of Roman activity. After the Germanic invasions, it became the capital of the Visigothic Kingdom … then fell to Muslim rule … and then was recaptured by Alfonso VI of León and Castile. The city came into a period of great splendor until the capital moved to Madrid in 1561 when it fell into decline. Toledo has a history in the production of bladed weapons, which are now popular souvenirs.
Side bar: Many years ago, I participated in a Maritz pinball tournament – my playing partner was Stillman St. Clair. Prizes were items from Maritz's promotional mail bins – and I won a stainless steel Toledo sword letter opener. I put it in the pocket of my jeans and promptly forgot about it. Hours later when I went to the restroom, I pulled down my jeans and impaled the letter opener in my thigh. I still have the weapon and I thought of that incident – and others related to it – throughout the day as I wandered in and out of the city's shops.
Some of us shopped when we arrived in the city. There were Majorca pearl purchases, Damascene swords, Zara clothing, marzipan and more. It was fun to get to do some non-souvenir purchasing. Others (like Patrick) toured the city's cathedral, a beautiful building that is the 11th largest in the world.
As a reunited group, we walked the city streets, learning about its history. We visited the oldest Synagogue in Spain and wound our way down to Hacienda del Cardenal, a beautiful restaurant with gorgeous gardens. Suckling pig was again among the offerings.
We headed back to Madrid to do our final packing and get ready for the final night banquet in the Westin Palace. Everyone got a little dressed up for cocktails and dinner. A troupe of Spanish musicians entertained us during dinner and included a few among our group as performers.
We bid our new friends farewell, with promises to stay in touch. Thanks to Joe and Antonio for a great trip -- it was grand.
Tomorrow most of our compadres head back to the United States. A few of us move on in Europe. Patrick, Anne, Barcy and I will take the fast train to Barcelona in the morning.
Bobby: Where ya going?
April: Barcelona.
Bobby: Oh.
April: Don't get up.
--Stephen Sondheim's musical, “Company”
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Kirchoff, Nancy
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What a wonderful trip! Everyone had a grand time as we can tell from the photos from the last night!!!