Skullduggery

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Geo: 38.571, -7.9096

Skullduggery

DAY FIVE

Friday, September 30, 2016

After breakfast at the Ritz, we boarded our pretty "circus" bus and headed out of Lisbon, passing a few more famous sites, including the prison, the train station and some fascinating high rises along the water (Tagus River). We crossed over the Vasco da Gama Bridge, one of Europe's longest suspension bridges, and headed to Evora, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Evora has 2,000 years of history.

NOTE: The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) seeks to encourage the identification, protection and preservation of cultural and natural heritage around the world considered to be of outstanding value to humanity.
First stop, the rather creepy Chapel of Bones in the 15th-century church of St. Francis. The chapel is decorated with thousands of skulls and bones, and there a few skeletons asleep in beds along the way. I spared you the photos of the skeletons but just had to post the skulls.

Next up, we strolled the streets of the city of 50,000 past shops selling cork, tiles and more. We headed into the Praca de Giraldo, the town square, where our guide gave us a rundown on Evora, including history and buildings that date back to the Roman period, 0-300 A.D. We visited the Cathedral of Evora (also called St. Maria, the largest cathedral in Portugal), and saw a statue of the Virgin at the time of the Annunciation. She is depicted as pregnant – something pretty rad for that many centuries ago. The statue disappeared during the Inquisition.

The tour ended at the Temple of Diana, officially known as the Roman Temple of Evora. Built from granite, the temple boasts Corinthian-style columns that are remarkably well preserved. Following the obligatory formal photo when your path crosses something so important, we headed back down the winding streets of the town for some retail therapy. Anne Leverone and I both purchased beautiful tiles with 2” of intricate relief. They won't make very good trivets.

We enjoyed lunch at the Pousada de Evora-Loios, a former convent and one of Evora's notable buildings. We tried Portugal's famous black pork, which was quite tasty, but you could feel the cholesterol coursing through your veins even as you began the meal. Dessert was flan, but both Barcy and Patrick thought the waiter said “lamb”, so there was some serious consternation of their part trying to resolve the egg dish and looking for Mary's little lamb. Good opportunity for a good laugh.

We made a short transfer to the Convento do Espinheiro, a former 15th-century convent that has been transformed into a luxury hotel. We dropped our things in our beautiful rooms and took off for a tour, which began with the elegant chapel and ended with a wine tasting. Tauck gave each couple a pair of wine glasses with the Tauck name on them. I find that very inconvenient and inappropriate. First off, you know the price of the glasses is imbedded in the price of the trip. (It's there; you find it!) I would just as soon not have a gift at all, to say nothing of something with Tauck's name on it, and wine glasses to boot. Not fitting for everyone and very, very difficult to get home. Tauck, why don't you rethink this?

There was some time to relax before we headed to dinner in the luxury dining room for a three-course meal. We supped with Margaret and John Scott of Walnut Creek, CA and her sister Dot Van Looy of East Lansing, MI. There was a staggering selection and it was hard to choose. I opted for a foie gras appetizer, sea bass with shrimp risotto and a passion fruit panna cota – all were exquisite. John's scallop dish was the prettiest but there was a tie for tastiest. We were all quite impressed. We were asked to return to the same seats in the morning for breakfast, sort of like a 1980's cruise where you were assigned to a table with the same people for the duration of your cruise. Such a very unusual request.

In the meantime, Joe, our Tauck tour director, has gone above and beyond the call of duty to try and rectify the situation. He found Tab online at some store in Spain and, when last heard from, was trying to order them to be shipped to Marbella next week. No telling the expense on that either.

I haven't given up hope but am beginning to realize the true extent of my addiction, which they say is the first step.

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Comments

[Refowich, Toni]

Just got back from Tauck's fabulous Sicily trip, & I feel as if I am off again revisiting Potugal. Your photos & blogs are always awesome. Enjoy! It was one of our favorite trips. Harold and I took this trip Sept. 2014. I know ther
e have been some slight modifications in the trip, but the majority of the tour is the same. Also, enjoyed following the NYC blog. Our best to both of you.Safe travels,Toni & Harold