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Published: June 10th 2017
Geo: 51.8889, 4.63505
Friday morning we woke up on the canal side of our boat, which turned out to also be the docking side. Just past the canal, in the near distance I could see a dike, with traffic and bicycles rushing past on top. I was surprised I had slept so well even with the ship traveling from Amsterdam to Kinderdijk overnight, as usually the creaking of the boat keeps me awake. So, too excited to eat breakfast, I set out to explore what was in this particular outside world. At the top of the dike was a wonderful sight: the classic, old windmills that I had seen as a child in my geography books when we were studying the Netherlands in grade school! Tons of them, 17 at my count. This is iconic Holland! Kinderdijk itself is a little town; tourists apparently come here specifically to see these beautiful, historic, nostalgic windmills. It is a UNESCO site, protected only since 1997, spectacular scenery indeed. Several other people joined me outside, taking millions of photos of these lovely, ancient structures. My roommate and I walked along the narrow street heading into town; she stopped to take videos, as all of these old windmills are still working-- when there is wind. I continued into the little town, peering into windows as I walked along.
The Dutch are very concerned with proper behavior. One of their well-known sayings is, "Act normal, that is strange enough." So to show they are proper citizens, they leave their front windows unshaded, uncurtained so people can look inside to see that they are living properly. What goes on in the rest of the house is private, but they must appear proper at least in their front living rooms, so it is fine to look inside their windows, even encouraged. I followed this custom and looked, even though I did not feel totally comfortable doing that. Their tiny front yards are spic-and-span, most are carefully and beautifully decorated with flowers and plantings, wooden shoes, and other treasured belongings. After seeing all this, I have new intentions for our front yard and gardens when I return home, once the snow has finally disappeared.
Our group walked along the canals, learning the history of these windmills, and taking a canal boat ride to see the oldest windmill still in existence. Some families here still live in these windmills, structures that have been passed down for generations. One family has 13 children, so the inside spaces are quite crowded. We were welcomed to climb up to the top of one windmill, making our way up and down steep, very narrow steps, seeing not only the working gears, but also the family's living quarters. Their beds are like futons, built into private boxy spaces on the sides of the rooms; the babies sleep in little beds built perpendicularly to the foot of the larger bed. Once toddlers graduate from their parent's bedroom, they go up one level to make room for the new babies; as the children grow up they move up floors. The teenagers live at the top of the windmill, and then our guide told us that when there is no more room, they marry and move out. The Dutch are very practical people.
In these windmills the only room that is heated is the living room. Picture a small room filled with light from a large window; the table is placed in front of this window, directly across from the fireplace. This is the only room that is heated. On the table are, of course, vases of flowers and a lace tablecloth. The parent's bedroom is to the left, the doorway outside is to the right. It seems cozy and family-oriented. I envied them their togetherness, especially with the children growing up right there beside them, sharing their lives and being guided by them, but families are not insulated or alone; all are very connected to the community, an important and integral part of the Dutch way of living. Working outdoors in the sunshine and the rain, raising their own food in their gardens, raising their own children at home and at school, bicycling to go wherever they want, seems to me such a wholesome, healthy way to live. Except for the chilly weather this might be an ideal place to live.
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Vicki Heigel
non-member comment
Never heard of the "Act normal" saying but it is an explaination for their front windows. Looks like you are headed to Berlin...make sure you do the flea market there one of my daughter, Jenn's favorite experiences.