Indian Gardens to the South Rim

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Last day and ready to be done. We’d eaten as much as possible during our stay at Indian Gardens, yet the packs felt heavier than when we started. Being accustomed to the oxygen rich air at sea level, it was easy to feel winded on the climb out. There doesn’t seem to be enough air at 6,000 feet. To me this was more of an obstacle than the heat. I’d hate to experience Everest. Suffice it to say, we switchbacked forever on our way to the top with the view back into the canyon improving with every step. Once the red of the Redwall Limestone and Supai Group gave way to the buff colored Coconino Sandstone, I knew we were almost done. It was at about this time that we started meeting hordes of perfumed, freshly showered folks out for a short walk into the canyon. We stank. Everyone we’d met and talked with up until this point was wonderful. Encouraging. Friendly. Helpful. Cheerful. Having the time of their lives like us. A few of the groups we met who were coming down into the canyon provided an interesting contrast. I heard one father yelling at his 6 year old son, “If you’re not too tired to talk, then you’re not too tired to walk so get moving! I’m not carrying you.” Day hikers are a different breed. What a contrast to the encouraging words we always heard from others further back on the trail. Oh the joys of a family vacation! I confess to putting head down at this time and plowing ahead answering the too frequent question of “Where’d you start?” with nothing more than “the other side”. Head down, focused on our final goal, I found myself not at all willing to step aside for people walking 2-3 abreast carrying nothing more than a small bottle of water, already half empty. If you ever do any hiking on heavily travelled trails, please yield to those with heavy backpacks - especially if they are headed uphill. It’s difficult to see oncoming traffic and once you’ve established a comfortable rhythm, it’s hard to find it again if you have to step aside. Additionally, people with packs can’t maneuver as well or as quickly as those without.

Fresh smelling people everywhere. Parents yelling at their kids. Pavement. Sounds and smells of automobiles. The welcome stench of civilization. We must be at the top! Feeling great. Just another mile to El Tovar - a classy lodge well worth a visit where we checked our packs and sat down to what may be the best breakfast I’d ever tasted - just moments before the dining room closed which was probably fortunate for us and anyone who might have had to sit nearby. We weren’t able to check into our hotel yet and were thus unshowered and filthy. We both felt a bit underdressed - this is the poshest restaurant for miles and miles - but we didn't mind feeling out of place after having just hiked a mere 30 miles, but with a descent of 6,000 feet, followed by a climb of 5,000 in the wildly inhospitable and sweltering heat of the inner Grand Canyon in July!

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Photos

Sunrise
Illuminating the South Rim

Rest House
where the squirrels rule the land and will gang up and run off with the contents of your backpack in seconds

Wish I Knew
what the name of this rock structure is.

South Rim
Looking back down the Bright Angel Trail.

Comments

[anonymous]

You're right, day hikers are a different breed
Being a day hiker who does Rim to Rim to Rim in less than 20 hours, I am grossly offended by the sanctimonious and holier than thou attitude exhibited in this article. I was particularly struck by her comment, "No offense, but day hikers are a different breed." Yup, you're right, the competent day hikers doing Rim to Rim do it in one day in less than 9 hours one way. They are by far more physically fit and mentally advanced than the hiker posting here. She seems to think that speed equals less compassion, less knowledge and that *she* knows better. Her article posted here proves the folly of that mindset. Though enjoyable in spots, this piece loses it when she gratuitously and unnecessarily attacks those in better shape and faster than she is.

[anonymous]

You said it
I just read the article and thought the exact same thing. I was going to post this, but I see you beat me to it. Slow people like this woman are the breed apart. They have every business going as slowly as they like, but not to cast envious glances at the rest of us who leave her in the dust. - Trish Convers

[hiker woman]

Apologies to anonymous
Sir or madam: I wish you had sent me a personal email so that I could address your concern. I checked back over the entry you found so offensive and failed to see where you saw yourself in the description of the sweet smelling people out for a short jaunt who were yelling at their kids (aka: day hikers). Any intended attack was directed at those on the way down who walked 2 abreast without yielding to any uphill traffic and who carried only a half empty water bottle for the whole family. I can't find any mention in my journal about speedier rim-to-rim hikers so I remain confused by the vehemence and speed to which you jumped to that conclusion. Although I prefer to take my time - when I have it to take - I do admire your level of physical conditioning and congratulate you on the less than 20 hours trip. I hope you enjoyed your trip as much as I did mine. - hiker woman

[anonymous]

thanks!
Hi! Thanks for the detailed description of your July, 2004 GC Rim to Rim hike. I've wanted to walk across since the 1st time I saw the Canyon in 1978...I'll finally walk the N. Kaibab-Bright Angel trails this September, if I snag backcountry camping permits. Your journal entries brought the hike alive better than anything I have read! Thank you. I'm planning an even slower crossing, with maybe a night or two at Phantom Ranch (again, depending upon reservations). Thanks again! Nat PS: I found nothing offensive about anything you wrote. - Nat

[Jo Eckel]

Go, Frank!
Poor Anonymous and Trish! They're "offended" by Hiker Woman's reference to "day hikers." They need to get a grip: if the boot fits, wear it. (The next thing to pout about is that they don't wear boots, because the "competent," "physically fit," and "mentally advanced" hike barefoot, or maybe on their hands. . . .) Please: spare all of us your more macho than thou attitude, and learn to read with understanding. Probably think you're "conquering" the Canyon, too. . . .