Jinshanling to Simatai


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Asia » China » Beijing » Great Wall of China
October 14th 2006
Published: October 16th 2006
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We decided to do see the Great Wall by doing the 11 km hike between the 2 points of the wall, Jinshanling to Simatai, which are known for their crazily steep inclines (70+ degree angles!) and very unsafe un-restored (i.e. falling apart) sections. We heard that there are way too many tourists at Badaling (restored section), so we wanted a more authentic experience. Jinshaling & Simatai are about 160kms from Beijing so don’t get as much tourist traffic.
Ok…good idea? Well maybe it didn’t seem so at the start (my internal monologue as we started off from Jinshanling and hit the first set of steps “big mistake Sam, big mistake…”). By the time we reached the top of the wall I was thinking “turn around”, but continued to huff my way behind Scott. We were followed by a couple of ladies who wanted to guide us, we didn’t ask and they didn’t offer they just followed. Unsure how to get rid of them without being rude we just allowed them to keep leading knowing it would eventually cost us something. There are a few peddlers along the wall selling postcards and bottles of drink but other than the ladies who were intent on guiding us, no-one else really pushed a hard sell. One of the old ladies kept grabbing my hand as if I were a child and dragging me up and down the stairs. It is not easy keeping your balance when someone is dragging you along.
The steep parts are brutal, especially the ones with the 2 foot high steps that you have to use your hands to keep going up. There are 30 watch towers from start to finish, so keep count and by about 15, you’re halfway. I was happy to see the halfway point as I was already feeling the muscles burning. I was constantly taking breaks as my muscles screamed at me. Scott was doing much better than I and a little irritated that we may be last from our group. Competitive as usual! I told him that I did not care if we lost to a bunch of 20 something year olds but I would be happy just to finish. I told him we could take a cab if we missed the 4 hour time frame of the bus.
The last set of stairs after the suspension bridge just about killed me. At the bottom I took a breather and my legs were visibly shaking. The stairs seemed to be straight up……So steep…that was nearly time for tears!
The option at that point would be to continue along the wall past the Simatai entrance and climb a completely INSANELY steep section for 14 more watch towers. It could be heart attack territory…well at least it is if you’ve just hiked from Jinshanling. By the time we reached this section the fog had rolled in and we could not get good pictures of the magnitude of it. We made adequate time overall and did the hike in the 4 hours. Happily for Scott we were not last. We joked about the further 14 watch towers and happily turned our backs, walked to the first vendor and bought a beer before we walked very slowly down to the car park!!!
For all the pain I felt for the next two days in my legs I still conclude the hike was worth it. We saw a majestic human accomplishment, one that has been mostly un-restored. It is awe inspiring and a place that everyone should see. Unfortunately with tourism increasing the restoration will be done, which has started at the Simatai section.



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16th October 2006

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Excellent pics! You guys look like you're really enjoyin all of it! This website is much better than the other. Take care. Keep hikin, keep drinkin the beer!

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