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Published: October 16th 2006
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We arrived in Seville via train without a hostel reservation. We´d tried to find something online from Morocco, but things weren´t working out smoothly and we didn´t wish to waste our time in an internet cafe, so we decided to just swing it and find something when we got into town on the 13th. Well, Columbus Day is a bit bigger here and not only did they have the 12th off to celebrate, but also the 13th so Spaniards had a four day weekend...and lots of them went to Seville.
From the train station we called numerous hostels, only to be told they were full, but finally we found one guy who said he had a room, but just for one night. We took it. We then spent the sunny, warm late afternoon strolling the labrynth of alleyways dotted with hostels, hotels and pensions. I felt like we were straight from the Christmas Eve Children´s Mass when they re-inact Mary and Joseph being denied at the inn because everything was full. Every single place we went to said, "full" and told us to come back in the morning, maybe there'd be a vacancy. Not necessarily a nice, relaxing way to
spend our first evening....stressed that we'd be in the stables with the animals the next night. It all worked out though as the nice man at our hostel informed us there would be a cheaper room available if we'd like...no complaints by us. So from then on we were able to fully enjoy the wonderful town of Seville.
We spent our first day getting our feel for the city, and were quite thoroughly disappointed when the receptionist at the tourist office informed us that we'd missed the last bullfight of the season...the day before. So we are leaving Spain without a bullfight. Kind of disappointing, but we're still pleased with what Spain has offered us. Instead of venturing to La Maestranza (the oldest bullring in Spain - 1881) to see a bullfight, we went for the tour. It was actually quite an impressive place. The bullring was massive and seated 14,000. We saw the infirmary, the horse stables, and all the different entrances and seating for royalty, etc. Downstairs was a small, four-room museum dedicated to the history of bullfighting and La Maestranza. I was surprised to find out that only one bullfighter has died in that ring. It
definitely would have been interesting to see a bullfight, although I'm not completely sure I would have been able to tolerate all of it, so perhaps it was a blessing in disguise.
That evening we ventured to a tapas bar recommended by a friend. Afterall, what's Spain without tapas (little snack-sized portions of just about anything). We sampled some sidra (cider), fish, and potatoes. Just walking down the streets at night is crazy. All the bars are stuffed with people and they just spill out onto the streets. And get this....with GLASS cups...that would NEVER happen in the States. It kinda makes for a fun atmosphere though.
The next day we walked through the humongous cathedral, the largest Gothic temple in the world and third largest of the Christian world. Massive. Unfortunately we didn't get to see all of it, but there were tons of chapels lining the outer walls and adorned sporadically with stained glass. Old. It is also the resting place of Columbus' remains.
We also visited the Alcazar, which was a series of royal palaces and the center of power in the 14th century. The architecture was impressive. A combination of Moorish and Arabic
Alcázar
Archways in the gardens styles. I loved the vividly colored tiles and the expansive gardens. For some reason I'm a sucker for archways. The place was filled with them.
That night, being a Saturday, we ventured out. We went to another bar recommended by friends and it was great. Just a place hidden away in the maze of alleyways, but huge inside. We sat outside for a while enjoying the weather and our beverages, but throughout the evening, we ventured inside for flamenco. Well, turns out what we saw in Madrid was the real thing, but for some reason the free version we saw in Seville was more entertaining. More stomping, more rythm, more passion. Still, we agreed that flamenco is not so much for us.
Yesterday we visited the Plaza de España. One of the main squares in Seville, the place was huge. It was supposed to be surrounded by a moat, but all the water was drained. Too bad because I'm sure it looks awesome. Surrounded on three sides by a huge building, the square has a big fountain in the middle. It was nice to just sit, relax, and watch the horse-drawn carriages pull people arond the fountain and
out into the park.
Seville was definitely a nice transition back into Europe, as it wasn't too big, and had a nice, warm feel to it....plus great weather (with the exception of our last day).
Next up: Pisa & Florence, Italy - Oct 17, 2006
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Mike
non-member comment
Obviously....
....you've NEVER been to New Orleans!! "All the bars are stuffed with people and they just spill out onto the streets. And get this....with GLASS cups...that would NEVER happen in the States. It kinda makes for a fun atmosphere though. " Try to make it sometime! Mike