Ollantaytambo

---

The Sacred valley in Peru is an area north of Cusco that roughly follows the Rio Urubamba. It is loaded with archaeological sites, quaint villages with local weavers, markets and stunning views.



We started out from our overnight bus trip in Cusco and caught a collectivo which took about 1 1/2 hours to reach Ollantaytambo. A collectivo is a mini van - collectivos for different locations wait at specific spots until there are enough people to fill the van, then take off. At first we were a bit nervous about finding and riding on the collectivos, but now is so easy - we feel like old hands at it.



Every place that we go becomes my new favourite place, but this one will be hard to beat. Our small hotel was very new, but in the old part of town (well, it's all old), down a narrow cobbled road, where few other tourists roam. It had great rooms, delicious breakfasts, very helpful staff (who found my camera after i thought is was left in the collectivo),and only a five minute walk to the Plaza.. We had a great view of the terraces from the hotel's roof top terrace.



The main square in every Peruvian city is called the Plaza de Armas, and Ollantaytambo is no exception. Lots of coffee shops, restaurants, tourist shops. At least here being quite small, we didn't have to go far to look for for dinner. Pizza one night and pasta the next -we are told these are popular Peruvian foods, so eating safe and saving up for guinea pig!



Day one we walked the Inca ruins behind the town- our first test of endurance. Even though the altitude has not been a problem, still get winded easily with steep climbs. Ollantaytambo was the home of former Inca ruler Pachacuti. This is the site of the only battle where the Inca's defeated the Spaniards. Then the Spaniards were so mad at being beaten that they came back with a huge army and basically wiped them out.



The Incas built several storehouses here and on the hills surrounding Ollantaytambo. Because they were at such high altitudes, where there is more wind and lower temperatures, their contents were defended against decay. Grain would be poured in the windows on the uphill side of each building, then emptied out through the downhill side window.



Because of the terraces, the Incas grew crops which were layered according to the temperatures that they required - low down for warmer crops and higher up for those which could take cooler temperatures. Quinoa is still being grown at the lower level terrace.



On day two, Jecis, the front desk girl who spoke pretty good English, set us up with a driver to see some of the surrounding area. First Jose took us to see the village of Hullioc where he walked us around to some local sights. We were the only tourists there, so it seemed really special. He has relatives here, so on our walk around the village, he knew his way around. We went to see some local weavers a group of 3 women who were using a traditional weaving method - they sat on the ground an the small loom was secured by their feet. Of course Gail had to buy a table runner from one of the women whose picture has disappeared unfortunately. It takes her three months to weave a similar piece. Also saw a church where the bullfights occur during the February festival - missed the bull fights, but saw the bulls grazing peacefully in the hills.





Next we went to an old Inca military site (Pumamarka) way up in the hills. Jose drove us up this road (well actually a path), picking up a couple of local women (one with a baby) who were walking up. relatives of a friend of his. About half way, he stopped and we all walked the rest of the way. That was a test of our lungs! (how are we going to do Macchu Piccu??) Such amazing views. Each of these installations were in view of the next so that the entire valley was protected from any one entering it. It is incredible to us how many people still live, farm and graze their animals at such elevations. Three llamas were tethered at the ruins and someone will come and get them every night to re-tether them in a different location each day.



We have booked Jose when we return from Macchu Piccu to pick us up and tour us around Urubamba. Such a nice man (of course you are when you are getting paid by western tourists!!) Sad to leave Ollantaytambo as there are many more things to explore - Macchu Piccu is next.

---

Comments

[Richard & Buff]

Gail & Rick, Sounds like you're having a fabulous time in the Sacred Valley, especially with a local who can take you places and introduce you. We too really enjoyed this part of Peru and in particular Ollantaytambo. Regarding the altitude, we think you'll find Machu Picchu is a lower elevation than other places. Are you planning to hike into Machu Picchu? Envious in Calgary, Richard & Buff