One of those frustrating days!

---

This guesthouse has all mod cons including an iron so am able to leave for Salvador tomorrow with most of my clothes clean and ironed. Have discovered there is only cold water in the two sinks in the kitchen and in my bathroom's washbasin -the only hot water seems to be in the shower. Yet there is a water dispenser which supplies filtered water at iced and room temperature on tap.

I suppose that when you are travelling and moving around a lot losing things is inevitable. Am already tired of living out of a suitcase. Did try to unpack here but it's difficult to organise so many toiletries and electronics and medication and there is beach gear that I haven't yet used. This morning I spent half an hour looking for a little bag with the three pairs of earrings I have brought with me, which involved tipping everything out of the case before finding it in the outer pocket. I then discovered that I couldn't find the padlock I had brought to lock the case. Hunting for this involved tipping out the case again and hunting everywhere, including under the bed, in unworn pairs of shoes etc. I even bought another padlock whilst out before getting home to discover that this didn't fit and then about an hour later, after another search I found the original one somehow lodged in the top corner of the outside pocket, where I normally keep it, hiding there behind the end of the zip.

Having spent about three quarters of an hour hunting for things I finally left the guesthouse and got down the the first steep hill before having ti go back to check that I'd shut the kitchen window, - I hadn't. By the time I'd reached the point where I had turned back was already exhausted. All the roads here are on about a 1 in 4 slope with very rough, uneven cobbles. I am developing new calf muscles and have had to resort to trainers to avoid my sandals getting ripped to shreds or worse, my coming a cropper on one of the jutting out stones. The locals of course negotiate these in flip flops or canvas flatties - except for the 'oldies', who wear trainers, like me!

Caught the bus to Mariana without any difficulty after asking a policeman and somebody else waiting at the stop - it's only about 40 minutes away. Mariana is another well-preserved colonial town but it's smaller than Ouro Preto and doesn't have its historical significance. However it does have a square that is much prettier than any to be found in the latter. Got accosted by a guide who initially I thought was a bored town hall employee, In fact he was a bored private tour guide looking to make some money. He was quite interesting on the church I was looking at but I realised that something was amiss when he complimented me on my Portuguese!

Having escaped his clutches I went looking for a loo with some urgency. In the UK you can be pretty sure that cafés will have them - not here. The small ones often have a wash basin in the actual cafe which I guess covers the hygiene requirements, if there are any. Eentually I was driven to go into a bigger place and order a drink, which I didn't want, in order to use their loo. I asked for a fruit juice but then got bombarded with a list I didn't understand so asked for the menu. Individual fruit juices were nowhere to be seen on this so asked for a limon which turned out to be a can of Schweppes. I studied the food information on the can - about 5% juice and I can't remember how many grammes of sugar but about a tenth of a day's calories in half a can - I left most of it. I will not forget the word for fresh juice in a hurry - 'suco natural'.

Went somewhere else for lunch, another which advertised itself as buffet 'com balança', with scales - I noticed one boasted buffet 'sim balança'. Was mortified again when the owner started reeling off a list of juices which I didn't catch first time and summoned a English speaking waitress . Am not having a good day today for the Portuguese. The food was OK but am beginning to think that these buffets are all much of a muchness- too much chicken, black beans, brown rice and unidentifuabke mush. However I did try a meatball (undercooked), aubergine fritters and a piece of stuffed courgette. Got the bus back and walked back a stop to take a photo of the view of Ouro Preto as you come in from the road for Mariana. I think these views are the nicest thing about Ouro.

Ventured out this evening without bumbag and with handbag - felt very daring! Fortunately there is nobody here from home to see me in my usual outfit, which consists of floppy white hat with pink and purple flowered edge (don't seem to get round to looking for something more flattering), worn either on my head or tucked into my belt, bumbag and dangling water bottle. Fine for tracking through the jungles but Rio and Salvador? Could I look any more like a tourist and a badly kitted out one at that. No wonder guides keep approaching me to sell their services! I may get somebody to take a picture of me in this outfit, if I am feeling brave, so you can all have a laugh.

Couldn't decide where to eat in the evening. I ended up having a salmon and prawn cannelloni dish which was far too much and about as expensive as the first night but not nearly as good or in as nice a place - am blaming LP for that. Think will ignore their recommendations in future which will be asy in Salvador as the chances of my ever finding one in Salvador are remote. When I used to eat on my own in restaurants I used to read but now find myself What's Apping and surfing the web. I don't think I've been in a single restaurant/cafe since I arrived which didn't have Wi-fi.

Afterwards went back to the cinema to see Brazilian short films this time along with even fewer people. As in Spain, the government seems to think that culture is an inherent right and should be free for all. This is fine if you are not running out of money for the most basuc services and you can actually guess what sort of culture people want to experience. I had missed the start of the first film but don't think this made any difference, lots of voice(s) over accompanying a series of snapshots. Waited for the second film but this involved a driver mumbling to himself as he drove so I gave up in despair. A bit depressing that I coukd understand so little but perhaps I have unrealistic expectations. Am still hesitant to turn the subtitles off on Spanish films which of course have been studying for what seems like forever.

---

Photos

Praça Gomes Freire
The prettiest square in Mariana

Original altar of Igreja NS do Carmo
One of the few elements to survive a fire in 1999

Ouro Preto, typical street
Gives you some idea of what an exhausting place this is!

Comments

[Carol Staton]

Not surprised about the packing and unpacking!
Am really not at all surprised about your packing and unpacking experiences! When I was touring the east coast of Australia I think I unpacked and repacked every 3 days i.e. every time I moved on to my next airbnb! I just left the bottom layer in place (which consisted of presents for the grandkids) every time. Ouro looks lovely on the photo. Looking forward to hearing all about your next stop. Love, Carol