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Published: March 25th 2016
Kool and Krazy Kuala Lumpur
For a change of direction, this next trip will transport me across the vast Pacific and via Seoul, South Korea. Haven’t been in that exotic city in a few years, but I do recall the airport being a delight. But first things first and that includes a red-eye flight to Detroit. I tried to sleep during the day in preparation for this red-eye but alas, no joy. So by the time I settled my butt into an aisle seat, I was more than ready to close my eyes and doze for the next 4 hours until landing in Michigan. It also happens to be daylight savings weekend, which even further screws with my internal clock! But apparently the airline gods were not feeling friendly towards yours truly and my seatmate had an active bladder. By the time she asked to be let out to make it to the bathroom for the 3
rd time, I was ready to hand her a cork and tell her to sit on it. So much for my sleeping plans. But there was a positive side – a 4-hour layover in Detroit and I spent the entire time curled
up in a very comfy armchair in the Delta Sky Lounge, where a full bottle of Bailey’s Irish Cream was to be had....there is a god.
Shortly after noon, the 777 lifted off the tarmac and headed west towards the mighty Pacific. This was going to be the longest and toughest leg – 14 hours trapped in this steel tube with 200+ complete strangers – gee, I’m personally thrilled, NOT. By the time we were high above Russian Siberia I was done – just stick a fork in me I’m done with this flying crap, but alas, I still had 7 more hours to go…..such is the life of a world traveler. With the Korean Peninsula in sight, the pilot swung our aircraft far to the west out over the Korea Sea, to avoid tempting that plump, vertically-challenged pissant in Pyongyang from launching a missile at us, or something equally unpleasant. That would have totally pissed me off bigtime. Then he did an about turn in the Yellow Sea and made a direct beeline for a smooth landing in Seoul. Terra Firma never looked so good!
It was clear, sunny and cool in the
South Korean capital city and with only an hour to clear security and make my way to the next departure gate, I really didn’t have enough time to stop by the Delta Lounge and grab a hot shower. But at least the hike from the jet way to my next flight was long enough to work out the kinks in my knees, hips and lower back – feels like I have aged 20 years in the past 24 hours. This time I boarded a 777 Korean Airlines flight for the 6.5 hour flight on to Malaysia – and this time heavens be praised, I had no seat mate….for the second time, there is a god. I stayed awake long enough to watch the movie “Brooklyn” before the two burning holes in my face (aka eyeballs) demanded closure and I passed out for the remainder of the flight.
We arrived 25 minutes early into Kuala Lumpur and with no other international flight landing at the same time, I breezed thru customs and irrigation in record time (4 minutes), and clutching my passport with newly-stamped 90-day visa, I headed for baggage claim and the exit sign. The entire airport
was virtually empty, I can get very used to this. My bag arrived immediately and after a quick stop at the currency exchange window for a boatload of ringgits (Malaysia currency), I heard my name over the PA system in the Arrivals Hall. My driver was waving a sign to grab my attention and he then grabbed my luggage and we headed for the door. I had forgotten KL is just a few degrees north of the equator and the heat/humidity hit me like a sledge hammer once outside the air conditioned terminal…..it was just 11pm but still around 90f with matching humidity levels. But at least the car was blasting out cold, dry air and I managed to get myself situated and cooled off during the 50-minute drive into the city center. As we approached the downtown section, the world-famous Petronas Twin Towers appeared thru the mist on the horizon, lights on every floor blazing against the night sky. It’s an impressive sight and anyone who has seen the movie “Entrapment” with Sean Connery and Catherine Zeta-Jones will know which building I’m referring to. The entire city center is an awesome architectural vision – skyscrapers of every design and
shape fight for dominance along the skyline and to my delight, my hotel the Doubletree (yes of course, my favorite hotel chain Hilton again this trip) is located right in the city center, just a short walk from the Petronas Towers. They were once the tallest buildings in the world. Now the world’s tallest twin structures, the 88-storey buildings were designed by Cesar Pelli & Associates, with both towers joined at the 41st and 42nd floors (525’ above street level) by a 174’ long, double-decker Sky Bridge. Standing 1,356’ tall, the Towers retained its world-title claim to fame until 2004 when Taipei's 101 was built, measuring 1,524’ tall. Today, the Burj Khalifa in Dubai (opened in 2010) still retains the spot as the world’s tallest building. Located in the KL city center, the architecture is Islamic-inspired and the buildings primarily house the corporate headquarters of the Petronas Company and other offices.
Walking into the 2
nd floor lobby, I was immediately struck by the fact the hotel is located within a shopping and restaurant complex known as The Intermark. It stands 34 floors high and if the lobby is any indication, this place is about to become my
next favorite hotel site – it’s freaking fabulous! The lobby is massive with marble, glass and chandeliers stretched out in all directions. Five outstanding restaurants and a pub with live music and this is just the 2
nd floor. Upon check-in, I was immediately upgraded to the Executive 29
th floor and by midnight, I was enjoying this beautiful suite which would be my home away from home for the next 18 days. Apparently Hilton considers any stay over 7 consecutive days as a “long term stay” which brings with it a bunch of complimentary goodies. First up is the 20 items of laundry free for each week (with the humidity here, that will certainly come in handy), closely followed by 25%!d(MISSING)iscount on all food and beverage within the hotel’s dining choices, access to the Executive Lounge on the 34
th floor, which serves meals, snacks and beverages (including alcohol) from 6am to midnight, 7 days a week. I have a strong suspicion I’ll be in this lounge a LOT in the coming days…..LOL.
My suite is gorgeous, with a bay window overlooking the pool and adjoining shopping complex. A glass-enclosed bathroom with large walk-in shower and of course,
a king size Hilton Dreams bed….I was face planted in this, within minutes – talk about tired, I was on total burnout after traveling for the past 35 hours….I needed a hot shower and sleep more than I needed life, at this point. By 2am it was lights out and that was the last thing I remembered until 9am the next day. Coffee was the first thing on my menu to kick-start the old brain cells, so off to the 34th floor and my first introduction to what will definitely be a daily occurrence….the Executive Lounge. I chose a small table by one of the large windows and in spite of the morning haze, the Petronas Towers loomed large a few blocks away. I could see a long way across the city – talk about panorama views. Two cups of cappuccino later, I could actually face some fresh fruit and guava juice but passed on any solid food, I was simply too tired and jet lagged to consider food per se. I returned to the suite an hour later newspaper in hand, for a relaxing day around the hotel….sightseeing can wait for another day….today is all about recovery and recuperation
and of course, exploring this fabulous hotel. It’s going to take time for my internal clock to adjust to this 15-hour time zone difference, but napping on and off during the day, helped take the edge off. Midafternoon I stopped by the lounge once more for coffee and maroons and then back to bed for another couple of hours.
Remember I mentioned earlier that I get a 25% discount on food here in the hotel? Well I got another very nice surprise this morning when reading the in-room restaurant brochure. One of the 5 choices is the Makan Kitchen which features a gourmet Malay cuisine special dinner every evening. Any reservation made at least 48 hours in advance and online, gets a 50% discount (already made a few reservations during the coming weeks) and at this rate, I’ll end up paying around $8.00 plus tip for each….how crazy is that? LOL Talk about cheap eats….I’ll let you all know how it goes after I feast.
What a difference a day makes….or should I say a decent solid night’s rest? I feel like a new woman this morning, and considering that just 24 hours ago
I felt like 3 women (2 dead and 1 dying), it’s a miracle….LOL. Dawn breaks here around 7am and shortly thereafter I was headed to the Executive Lounge for breakfast. As I didn’t eat dinner yesterday I’m starving, and need at least two cups of Cafe Latte to get my eyes fully open. Once breakfast was done, it was time to go chat with the concierge at the front desk and pick his brain for sightseeing ideas, maps and whatever else he could supply. What a gem he turned out to be. My all-time favorite way to sightsee in any city is the HOHO (hop on-hop off) tour bus and as it turns out, the closest stop for this is just a short 10-minute walk away from the Doubletree. Also the nearest lite rail station can be accessed via a covered walkway from the hotel lobby, and here I can purchase a Touch ‘n Go card (same as I did in Taiwan and Hong Kong), which, when cash-loaded, will allow me to ride the length and breadth of this exotic city to my heart’s content…..I’m about to have a large time here, I can tell. With all this information, I’m
ready to sally forth and see what KL has to say for itself.
A little background and history will help: the name "Kuala Lumpur" which in the Malay language means "Muddy Confluence" or "Muddy Estuary", reflects the city's humble beginnings. In the 1850’s the Malay Chieftain of the coastal port of Klang and member of the Selangor Royal Family, Raja Abdullah, sent a group of 87 Chinese miners together with his officials to prospect for tin in the upper Klang valley of Selangor state. At that time tin was in huge demand with the full swing of the industrial revolution happening in Europe and America, which needed the durable, lightweight and rust-resistant metal to help fuel their industrial expansions. These miners made a settlement camp where the Klang and Gombak rivers flow quietly together forming a muddy but tin-rich delta. More tin was found in the surrounding areas and the camp immediately became a settlement, which quickly grew into a town, and expanded rapidly to become a thriving city. This modern and multi-cultural metropolis is now also simply called "KL". The "Muddy Confluence" is still there in the middle of the city, at the location of the
Jamek Mosque.
Kuala Lumpur had its share of setbacks before it evolved into one of Asia’s richest capitals. For instance, many of the original miners died of malaria and, as other prospectors filtered in, the town was overrun by rampant lawlessness. When chaos escalated in 1868, the leader of the Chinese community named Yap Ah Loy took the reins to steer development and became known as one of the early fathers of the city. It was the state Civil War however, that was most devastating. The Selangor Civil War involved royal factions fighting for power and territory. Each side had its own local and Chinese supporters. Swept up in conflict, KL burnt to the ground. By 1873 the Civil War ended and KL again grew as a center of tin mining and trade. At about the same time, a struggle was also playing out for the throne of Perak; the state to the north of Selangor. This became the reason for the British to intervene, and eventually gain a foothold in Perak and other Malay states including Selangor, with Kuala Lumpur at its center. British agreements with the local Malay Rulers called for the presence of an official
British Resident in each state. This was the beginning of a dramatically increased colonial involvement in Malaya, one that would eventually place Kuala Lumpur at the center of Malaysia's history.
In 1881, a flood swept through the town following a fire which had engulfed it earlier. These successive problems destroyed the town's structures of wood and thatching. As a response Frank Swettenham, the British Resident of Selangor, required that buildings be constructed of brick and tile. Many of the new brick buildings mirrored that of shop houses in southern China, with "five foot ways" as well as skilled Chinese carpentry. This resulted in the distinct eclectic shop house architecture typical to this region. A railway line increased accessibility into this town.
In 1896, Kuala Lumpur was chosen as the capital of the newly-formed Federated Malay States In 1896, the British got the Sultans of four states to unite under the umbrella of the Federated Malay States, and KL was chosen as the capital because of its central position. The city became a classic center of British colonialism. Sharply uniformed officers and bureaucrats administered the FMS from beneath the distinctive copper domes of the Sultan Abdul
Samad Building and other colonial edifices that still stand today. A mixture of different communities settled in various sections of Kuala Lumpur. The Chinese mainly settled around the commercial center of Market Square, east of Klang River, and towards Chinatown. The Malays, Indian Chettiars, and Indian Muslims resided along Java Street.
Kuala Lumpur's population greatly increased after World War II; and under a resettlement program, new villages were established in the city's outskirts during a long Communist-led guerrilla insurgency in Malaya from 1948 to 1960. Finally after struggles and negotiations for independence, at midnight on August 30, 1957 amidst a crowd of thousands, British soldiers lowered the Union Jack on the field in front of the Selangor Club, the Malayan flag was raised and the first Prime Minister declared Malaya's independence. Thereafter in 1957, Kuala Lumpur was declared the capital of the Federation of Malaya and continued to be the capital of the expanded and renamed Federation of Malaysia in 1963.
On May 14, 1990 Kuala Lumpur celebrated 100 years of local authority. The new federal territory of Kuala Lumpur flag and anthem were introduced. On February 1, 2001, Putrajaya was declared a Federal Territory, as well
as the seat of the federal government. The administrative and judicial functions of the government were shifted from Kuala Lumpur to Putrajaya. Kuala Lumpur however still retained its legislative function, and remained the home of the King. Since then, KL never turned back. Socio-political stability and strong leadership encouraged the rapid growth of agriculture and then the manufacturing industry of Malaysia, which stimulated the rapid development of the city. Buildings rose so fast “they grew overnight”, as some would describe it. Today, KL is one of the most vibrant cities in the world, despite its young history of only 160 years or so.
Kuala Lumpur is a busy city with ordered skyscrapers, six-lane highways, colonial architecture and lots of greenery. It’s a shopping paradise with some of Southeast Asia’s largest shopping malls, housing the world’s top brands, and street markets where you can get one-of-a-kind items. Sure there is a lot of traffic, but turn a corner and the city bursts to exotic life with mosques and temples side by side, with street markets and towering high rises. Plus if you need more reason to love KL, there is the food – with thousands of restaurants serving
every imaginable type of food to suit every budget.
Now that I’m wide awake or relatively so, it was time to check out the 3-hour evening cocktail session up in the lounge. This is held every evening between 5 and 8pm. Hadn’t eaten all day and I was sure they would be serving something delicious – I was right, they were. Three food and one beverage stations all loaded down with excellent selections…..I “dined” on dim sum, Chinese meat balls in a hot pepper sauce, beef kebabs and a good choice of various cheeses and crackers. Dessert consisted of miniature dragon fruit cheesecakes, mango panna cotta and vanilla panna cotta, both topped with fruit. No Bailey’s to be had here but the evening was saved by a bottle of Jack Daniels Tennessee Honey calling my name. I grabbed a window seat to enjoy this early dinner and watch the world go by, 34 floors below. It was partially cloudy when I arrived but within minutes of sitting down, it was though a curtain had been drawn across the sky – the heavens opened and it poured down – a mini monsoon. It was raining so hard the
windows actually rattled, the satellite television lost its signal and a thick mist rolled down from the mountains, obliterating most of the scenery. Thunder crashed and rolled with brilliant flashes of lightning tearing up the skies….talk about a light and sound show and I had a front row seat to it all. This mini storm lasted approximately 20 minutes and by the time it moved on, the streets were running with water in all directions. As if this place isn’t humid enough – the gods on high decided to add to it, obviously.
Today I conquer KL so after a hearty breakfast up in the lounge, I stopped by the front desk to purchase a 1-day HOHO bus ticket (yep, got yet another discount….I’m REALLY starting to like this joint), got directions to the nearest bus stop and swept out the front door. This building is attached to a large shopping center via an open-air covered walkway – sure saves on dodging traffic trying to cross these insane highways. I hadn’t taken a dozen steps when the climate hit me like a dump truck…..did I mention it’s freaking hot here and the humidity would choke a water
buffalo? It was barely 9am but the mercury was already hovering around 90f and god-only-knows what the humidity percentage was – I don’t even want to know. It was like trying to breathe inside a sauna and the only relief to be had, were clouds which occasionally blocked out the blistering Malaysian sun. But climate be damned, I had a city to explore and explain, not to mention photograph from every angle possible. It was a short 10-minute walk via this bridge to where the I would climb aboard the sightseeing bus, and by time I arrived there, I had easily lost 5lbs from sweating….by the end of this trip, it’s conceivable I’ll drop at least a couple of dress sizes….there’s an image to hold in mind. For the next 3 hours (probably THE longest HOHO bus trip I have ever taken in any city) I completed the entire 23-stop circle of the city, and I have to say, it’s definitely one of the best. No need to take any private city tour – this bus stops at every major building, museum and place of interest that KL has to offer and in these 3 hours, I took some fantastic
photos. My SOP is to take the bus for the first time and not get off at any stop, but simply mark the stops I want to make later, on my map brochure. This way I see it all in one drive, then return on another day to dig deeper into the really interesting locations. This city is so architecturally incredible – no two skyscrapers are the same – it must have taken hundreds of architects to come up with the designs….its mind blowing. It rivals Manhattan for tall buildings and the lush, overgrown foliage gives a feeling of driving thru a rain forest. There are numerous species of trees, flowers, shrubs, bushes and bamboo everywhere you look….massive banyan trees creating welcome shade along major city highways, and clumps of bamboo with deep red stalks form fences around elegant homes and businesses. These areas are known as the “green lung” of KL and driving thru the many parks, really is a delight. The temperature drops immediately and the smell of warm earth permeates everything. The tour bus is a double-decker with the open-air section naturally on the upper deck. Due to the excessive heat and humidity here, part of the
upper deck is enclosed in air conditioned comfort, and during those 3 hours, I alternated between the two. When I wanted great photos I was out in the heat, otherwise I was sitting under dual a/c ducts. By 12:30pm I left the bus close to my hotel and started walking back….I had consumed three bottles of water during the drive, now I needed some icy refreshment up in the lounge.
I have gotten to know the lounge hostess quite well by this time, and when Khairah saw me walking thru the door, she was already pouring a large glass of green guava juice over ice and selecting some freshly-baked coconut finger macaroons for me to snack on…..I do appreciate being treated like a Hilton queen! When she heard of my morning adventure, she told me of a great shopping mall close to the hotel, which is where the locals shop (aka much cheaper than the tourist joints). So that is now on my list of “must see’s”, probably tomorrow. I have 8 places from my touring brochure I plan to explore in the next week, which now completes my sightseeing itinerary. Now it’s time for a cold
shower and an afternoon nap. Dinner up in the lounge was another interesting culinary experience….the 3 in-house chefs really make an effort to vary dishes and tonight’s selections caught my attention. Beef lasagna was served baked inside small teacups, perfect portion sizes and absolutely delicious. This was in competition with an outstanding fish curry soup and also baked chicken in a spicy sauce. Miniature chocolate cheesecakes and vanilla panna cotta rounded out the meal….I staggered back to my room really to collapse an hour later.
My laundry was delivered around 8pm. Jeans and tops on hangers as I expected, but my underwear perfectly folded and wrapped in tissue paper and a pink bow? That was a bit much and I had to laugh…I’m definitely NOT the pink bow type…LOL
Southeast Asia is currently under a heatwave warning due to El Nino….temperatures in the high 90’s thru 115f (you don’t want to know what the humidity percentage is), which is causing schools to close and people being advised to stay indoors as much as possible. The heat I can handle – the humidity I can’t – so I plan my days accordingly and have gotten
into a routine. Breakfast is generally no later than 7am, outdoor activities are completed by noon, midday break up in the lounge for coffee and then an afternoon within the hotel complex or my room, relaxing. Once the sun sets and the heat dissipates somewhat, then I venture outside more once……this is working well. Today I decided to explore the Intermark. As I mentioned at the beginning of this blog, the Doubletree hotel is the linchpin of a very large complex of restaurants, shops, coffee bars, a nightclub, a supermarket and a carpark all under one roof. There are 4 levels beneath the hotel and I spent a couple of hours wandering around this morning. I counted at least 12 restaurants, two of which are Subway and Red Lobster, along with Malay, Indian, Chinese and Australia offerings. A small supermarket with an excellent selection of fresh fruit and produce and two health and beauty stores. Just about anything I could want, I can find here.
Last night I decided to try out the Makan Kitchen, which is touted as a true showcase of Malaysian dining, and is the signature restaurant of the Doubletree. Makan Kitchen is a
hub for culinary actions where specialty chefs dish up recipes from six local cuisines; from the popular Malay, Chinese, Indian to the more authentic Peranakan, Kristang and Iban delights, served from three distinctive, live & interactive kitchens. These food stations are right in the middle of the restaurant with seating sectioned off into semi-private cubicles, using engraved screens. I was seated at a 2-person corner window table with great views overlooking downtown, and the Petronas Twin Towers in the distance. Darkness was almost complete by the time I arrived, so candles were being lit on all the tables, creating a delightful ambiance. I decided to do the buffet so I could select samples from all the different cuisines, most of which I have never heard of nor could I even pronounce – thank god for subtitles on the food cards! When I returned to the table with my first choice of entrees, here comes my waiter with a tray of three signature dishes….fish head soup ( I DON’T think so, I swear the eye was winking at me); a beef dish with bone attached and a couple of what looked like spring rolls. I really wasn’t impressed overall with what
I tasted, ended up leaving a lot of the food on the plates and was ready to leave within an hour. When I got my bill and checked it, saw that the 50%!d(MISSING)iscount hasn’t been taken so of course, I had to bring it to the attention of the concierge….they obviously don’t know me very well, do they? LOL Won’t be dining there again, that’s for sure. I much prefer the executive lounge anyway and the people working up there, are really great.
Today I’m exploring Malacca (also spelled Melaka) which, in the 14
th century, was just another fishing village, until it attracted the attention of a Hindu prince called Parameswara from Sumatra, who had become a pirate and had fled to Melaka where he established his new headquarters. Under this pirate’s protection, Melaka soon became a favored port for waiting out monsoons and resupplying trading ships plying the strategic Selat Melaka. Located halfway between China and India and with easy access to the spice islands of Indonesia, Melaka attracted merchants from all over the East.
In 1405 the Chinese Muslim Admiral Cheng Ho, the ‘three-jeweled eunuch prince’, arrived in Melaka bearing
gifts from the Ming emperor and the promise of protection from Siamese enemies. Chinese settlers followed, who intermarried with local Malays and came to be known as the Baba-Nonya. Despite internal squabbles and intrigues, by the time of Parameswara’s death in 1414, Melaka was a powerful trading state. Its position was consolidated by the state’s adoption of Islam in the mid-15th century.
In 1509 the Portuguese came seeking the wealth of the spice traders, but after an initially friendly reception, the Malaccans attacked the Portuguese fleet and took a number of prisoners. This prompted an outright assault by the Portuguese, and in 1511 Alfonso de Albuquerque took the city, forcing the sultan to flee to Johor, where he re-established his kingdom. Under the Portuguese, the fortress of A’Famosa was constructed, and missionaries like St Francis Xavier strove to implant Catholicism. While Portuguese cannons could easily conquer Melaka, they could not force Muslim merchants from Arabia and India to continue trading there, and other ports in the area, such as Islamic Demak on Java, grew to overshadow Melaka.
The period of Portuguese strength in the East was short-lived, as
Melaka suffered harrying attacks from the rulers of neighboring Johor and Negeri Sembilan, as well as from the Islamic power of Aceh in Sumatra. Melaka declined further as Dutch influence in Indonesia grew and Batavia (modern-day Jakarta) developed as the key European port of the region. Melaka passed into Dutch hands after an eight-month siege in 1641. The Dutch ruled Melaka for only about 150 years. Melaka again became the center for peninsular trade, but the Dutch directed more energy into their possessions in Indonesia. In Melaka they built fine public buildings and churches, which remain the most solid suggestions of European presence.
When the French occupied Holland in 1795, the British – Dutch allies – temporarily assumed administration of the Dutch colonies. The British administrators, essentially traders, were opposed to the Dutch policy of trade monopoly and saw the potential for fierce rivalry in Malaysia between themselves and the Dutch. Accordingly, in 1807 they began demolishing A’Famosa fortress and forcibly removing Melaka’s Dutch population to Penang to prevent Melaka rivalling British Malayan centers in the event of Dutch control being restored. Fortunately Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, the far-sighted founder of Singapore, stepped
in before these destructive policies went too far, and in 1824 Melaka was permanently ceded to the British in exchange for the Sumatran port of Bencoolen (Bengkulu today).
Melaka, together with Penang and Singapore, formed the Straits Settlements, the three British territories that were the centers for later expansion into the peninsula. However, under British rule Melaka was eclipsed by other Straits Settlements and was quickly superseded by the rapidly growing commercial importance of Singapore. Apart from a brief upturn in the early 20th century when rubber was an important crop, Melaka returned again to being a quiet backwater, quietly awaiting its renaissance as a tourist drawcard.
My car and tour guide/driver arrived promptly at 8:30am and after picking up a young Spanish couple from a neighboring hotel, we were off on the 2-hour drive south. Not much to see during this drive as it was all on an interstate, except for miles and miles and miles of date palm trees under cultivation for the oil. I asked a couple of questions enroute regarding the history of Melaka, but it soon became obvious he was just a driver
and certainly not any type of guide…..basically hopeless, so I gave up on that idea and concentrated on the scenery.
There is little of any consequence to talk about in this sleepy town/village of approximately a million people. Most of the colonial buildings have been destroyed and the few that remain, are simply ruined walls and a couple of graveyards of Dutch settlers. I did tour a couple of history museums and the waterfront (see pix) but a violent downpour around noon drove us all back to the van and made the already god-awful humidity even worse. Once the sun came back out it was virtually impossible to breathe, and the temperature reading was climbing above 100f….I was done with this, just stick a fork in me. The couple with me agreed, so we had our driver take us around the city from the comfort of air conditioning and by 3pm, we were headed back to KL. Definitely not worth the price of admission but at least I can add it to my list of places I’ve seen and won’t see again.
Once back in my room, I
peeled off my sweat-sodden clothing (I was wet down to my underwear – yes, the humidity is really that bad) and dove into a cold shower – water never felt so good! Then it was time for a glass of chilled white wine up in the lounge….this was definitely the best part of the entire day. The climate had taken a toll on yours truly – I was exhausted – and by 9pm I was out like a light.
Today I decided to stay “close to home” and check out the neighboring shopping center – Ampang Park – located adjacent to the Doubletree and accessed via the open-air covered walkway I mentioned previously. This is a necessity considering it’s raining AGAIN, coming down in buckets along with thunder and lightning….might as well enjoy this climate while it lasts….almost never see this
in Nevada. I spent a couple of hours walking around but I guess the posted hours of 10am to 9pm every day are just a suggestion….I was there from 11am to 1pm and most of the stores were closed….definitely a different concept of time here….LOL Back outside the rain has cleared but of course the humidity had soared and I could barely breathe….I hot footed it back to the blessed a/c hotel lobby. An hour later, the skies opened once more and this continued on and off for the remainder of the day…..no more sightseeing to be done, obviously.
One of the stops from the HOHO bus I had marked to visit, is the KL Bird Park. As the rain seems to be holding off this morning, time to check this out. Located in the serene and scenic Kuala Lumpur Lake Gardens, it is only a 10-minute drive away from the city center, and is the home to more than 3,000 birds of approximately 200 species of local and foreign birds. Sprawling across 20.9 acres of verdant valley terrain, the park is divided into 4 zones; Zone 1 and 2 make up the free-flight zone; Zone 3 is the Hornbill
Park and Zone 4 is where the birds are placed in separate cages and mini aviaries.
One of KL Bird Park's most extraordinary feature is that in Zone 1, 2 and 3, birds are let free in the aviary which closely resembles their natural habitat. With this free-flight concept, birds are able to breed naturally in this unique environment. I had the exciting experience of watching colorful and melodic birds perching and winging about freely while relaxing in a natural and beautifully landscaped surrounding. KL Bird Park is also reputed to be the largest walk-in free-flight aviary in the world. It’s an awesome way to spend a few hours right in the middle of this sprawling, noisy city and yet be in such a peaceful, green park.
I jumped back on the HOHO bus and headed for my next point of interest, the Central Market and Chinatown – definitely one of the most colorful areas of the city.
Built in 1928, Central Market is a short walk away from Petaling Street, and a very popular tourist attraction. It used to be a simple wet market but was revamped in the early 1980’s into a
handicrafts outlet. The focus for the city’s artistic community, inside the building is a warren of boutiques, handicraft and souvenir stalls with traders selling local merchandise such as authentic Malaysian batik prints and more. Central Market is located on the opposite bank of the Dayabumi Complex and is an art-deco style building with local ‘Baroque’ trimmings
Petaling Street is the main pathway thru Chinatown in the older part of Kuala Lumpur. It is a place where the hustling and bustling never comes to an end. Day or night, people keep coming here to either dine on the famous street foods here or to get some good bargains sold here. This street is a shoppers' paradise if you want to bargain your way to some cheap things. There is almost everything here from clothes, souvenirs to electronic items to fabrics. Other than cheap stuff, Petaling Street is renowned for selling imitation goods like handbags, wallets, watches and shoes from brands like Adidas, Louis Vuitton, Calvin Klein, Nike and so on. Food here is also abundant.
There aren't many proper shops here. Most are little stalls but many locals claim these stalls are
where the best street foods can be found. A famous delicacy is the salted roast duck which is sold at a mobile stall, which is built on a motorcycle. Have to be here very early as the roast ducks are sold out by lunch time.
By early afternoon not only was I soaked to the skin from the humidity, but I had walked my feet off and was more than ready for my coffee break back at the hotel. Almond biscotti was being served and after a couple of mugs of Café Latte, I felt like a new woman…just need a cold shower to complete my afternoon ritual.
Another fine day, so right after breakfast headed for my HOHO bus ride – this time to explore the Railway Station, Little India, National Museum and the National Palace (where the king hangs out).
The railway station has a very impressive British Colonial architectural structure gleaming white in the tropical sun. The original station, built of wood and a nipah palm roof, was officially inaugurated on September 22, 1886 and was the
first in KL, linking the rest of the Malay Peninsula. This original station was demolished to make way for a modern design and more functional building, and at a cost of $23,000, the new station was completed and operational on August 1, 1910.
Little India,aka Brickfields, got its name from the earlier days when the area was a clay pit and many bricks were made from the clay. Brickfields is immediately noticeable by the one of a kind decorations. The colors of the street are simply amazing. Vendors lugging bales of sarees through the traffic, and sarees of every color and design are to be found here. Glass bangles too are aplenty. There are even shops which sell traditional Indian candies, savories, and so on.
I was told to not miss the famous banana leaf rice. This is rice, vegetables of many kinds, meat and lots of curry, served on a banana leaf and eaten with one hand. Dozens of stalls selling this and other Indian snacks, such as samosa, vadai and ghulab jamun line the street. A very popular drink is lassi, either in original plan
flavor or what I consider the very best, mango. Brickfields used to be the main Malayan Railway depot during the British occupation.
Next up was the National Museum which is located near the southern tip of the Lake Gardens, home of the KL Bird Park I visited yesterday. An excellent introduction to Malaysia’s history, economy, geography, arts, crafts and culture, it was built in 1963 with its displays spread out over three floors.The building has a sweeping, traditional Minangkabau-style roof and a main entrance flanked by two large murals of Italian glass mosaic that portray the country’s major historical events and cultural activities. A couple of years ago, the museum underwent an extensive renovation that had an all-new gallery added to its complex.
Much of the National Museum’s original collection of artworks was razed during a World War II bombing, but the museum still has an extensive ethnographic and archaeological exhibit on display. Its impressive collection starts out on the ground floor with life-sized dioramas of ritual weddings, traditional Malaysian life (fishing, farming, weaving etc.) taking place in kampung settings and even one of a Malay circumcision ceremony (ouch, to say the least!).
There is even a life-size, traditional Malacca Baba house with beautiful mahogany furniture, elaborate carpets and brass, silver and gold ornaments on the first floor. Additionally, the museum adds a hint of the prosaic to the mix, with a section dedicated to the Malay art of wayang kulit – a kind of shadow wooden puppet theatre.
My final stop of the day was the National Palace which from 1957 thru 2011, was the official residence of the King and Queen of Malaysia. A new palace has been constructed and that is now where royalty resides. The National Palace is located on an 11-acre site in the green park center of Kuala Lumpur. It was built in 1928 as a private residence for a Chinese tin tycoon called Chan Wing, who made his fortune by developing the Hong Fatt Tin Mine which is where The Mines development now stands. Mr. Chan Wing's home cost RM150,000 (approximately $37,000) to build and although it had 13 rooms at that time, it must still have been quite crowded as he had 26 children and 8 or 9 wives (he probably lost count after the first 4).
He
had to flee Malaya during the Japanese occupation as he was known to be a supporter of anti-Japanese resistance in China. His descendants still have active business interests in Malaysia and beyond. During the War, the Japanese used the building as an officers' mess. After their surrender, it was used by the British Royal Air Force for a while and then served as a temporary Palace for the Sultan of Selangor while his new Palace at Klang was being built. The Palace was then acquired by the Federal Government in 1957 and, after undergoing extensive renovations and extensions, it became the National Palace.
Talk about routine: every day between 4 – 5pm there’s a thunderstorm. Not always with lightning or torrential rains but booming thunder and heavy dark grey clouds. I have to laugh as the television signal is disrupted and a message stating “if it is currently raining, this will be a temporary disruption”….obviously it’s accepted as normal in this country….LOL It just happened again this afternoon and it’s 4:39pm, right on time. No television, booming thunder, flashes of brilliant lightning and rain coming down in buckets….ain’t life grand? This place is a hoot. I’ll be
heading up to the lounge in about an hour for dinner, that’s the best location during storms, with 360 degree window views of the entire city.
My time in KL is winding down and soon I’ll be boarding the first of my 3 homeward flights. It’s been a great trip (miserable climate however), and I’ve enjoyed my time here, but unlike other locations it’s not a place I would want to return to….it’s not that high on my list overall. Check KL off my bucket list….on to the next. And where will I go next? Soon as I know, so will you! Until we “meet” again readers……cheers
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Sadie
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Makes me look forward to my SE Asian trip next month! Though not so much the climate...