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Published: January 26th 2016
Magical, Mystical Morocco And what better way to kick off a new year than with another adventure in North Africa? Morocco is definitely high on my list of “best places to be” and having some free time this January, it makes perfect sense to return – at least it will be far warmer than my recent sojourns! It was another zero-dark-thirty beginning with my alarm sounding at 3am and the shuttle ride to the airport at 4am….these 6am transcontinental flights are a killer, but the bright side is that I arrive in Casablanca just after breakfast tomorrow, which gives me the rest of the day to rest and recover at the hotel. It was also another bone-chilling morning with the mercury hovering around 30f…….. I was checked in and sipping my first cup of coffee at McCarran Airport by 5am and we boarded the Atlanta flight minutes later. An uneventful ride across country and an on-time arrival always makes me smile – I actually have enough time for a quick drink and lunch in the Sky Lounge in the international terminal, before the Paris flight was called. I have flown the Atlantic so many times it’s almost become a commute, and this one was no different – did I really only leave Paris less than 9 days ago – seems like just yesterday! I had just enough time to change terminals, pick up some Bulgari perfume miniatures in duty free and then it was time to board my third and final flight south to Casablanca – ah yes North Africa, land of dreams, camels and tagine. Again another uneventful 3 hour flight before I espied the green fields and mountain range of northern Morocco – it’s so good to be back.
Only two customs officers on duty in immigration which equated to a long wait before I had my new passport stamp but at least, my luggage was waiting in baggage claim. Exchanged a few dollars for dirhams at the bank in the arrivals hall and I was ready to find my shuttle driver to take me to my hotel in Rabat. The weather is delightful. Bright blue cloudless skies, brilliant sunshine and in the high 60’s - it’s been weeks since I felt this comfortable without multiple layers of clothing. It’s a 2 hour highway drive between the two cities and most of it, parallels the coast. I dozed off at least twice and was more than happy to get to Le Diwan Hotel in downtown Rabat just before noon. A lovely room on the 6
th floor awaited my occupancy and after a much needed hot shower, I hit the bed and passed out for the next 5 hours – I was really exhausted.
Previously I haven’t had much opportunity to really explore Rabat, so decided to spend a couple of nights here and do some real sightseeing. While this capital city (which gained independence in 1956) has not really established itself as a tourist destination, visitors who do find their way here find a gem of a city. The colonial architecture is stunning, the palm-lined boulevards are well kept and traffic is not that much of a problem overall. The atmosphere is as cosmopolitan as its economic “big brother” down the coast. The city is more laid-back, pleasant and more provincial than Casablanca, plus its far less grimy and frantic. The quiet Medina has an authentic feel to it, some good shops and fascinating architecture. For the most part, you will be blissfully ignored on the streets and in the souks, so it’s easy to discover the city’s monuments and hidden corners as a leisurely pace. Rabat has a long and rich history and plenty of monuments to show for it, from the Phoenician, Roman and Merenid times. Power shifted at times between Rabat and Sale, the whitewashed town across the Bou Regreg River, where time appears to have stood still. Sale has once the home of the famous Barbary Coast Pirates, known as the “Sale Rovers”, which plagued shipping in the Mediterranean for hundreds of years.
I started my day with a drive to the tomb of Mohammed V, grandfather of the current king, which was built by Hassan II (father to current monarch) and it took more than 10 years to erect. This grand mausoleum edifice is the final resting place of the last two reigning Moroccan kings, plus an uncle and the marble tombs can be viewed from a gallery above. The walls and ceiling are of typical Moroccan design with patterned zellj and carved plaster, giving off an air of tranquility. Each of the four entrances are guarded by costumed guards with two more on horseback at the main gate.
From the tomb, my next stop was the royal palace in the downtown area of Rabat which covers approximately 70 hectares, and is a glorious array of gardens, the palace, a mosque, the royal school and the king’s business office. Mohammed VI elected not to live in this palace (the first king to do so), but arrives on a daily basis to conduct the social business of the country. Spent an hour slowly walking around the main square and photographing the palace with the multiple military guards before moving on to the next point of interest. Chellah – abandoned, crumbling and overgrown – the Merenid necropolis is one of Rabat’s more evocative sights. The Phoenicians were the first to settle on these grassy slopes above the river, but the town really grew when the Romans took control around 40 AD. The city was then abandoned in 1154 but revived in the 14th century by Sultan Abou al-Hassan, who built a necropolis on top of the original Roman site and surrounded it with the towers and defensive walls that stand today. Overgrown by fruit trees and wild flowers, it is an atmospheric place to roam around in. From the main gate, a path leads down through fragrant fig, olive and orange trees to a viewing platform that overlooks the Roman city ruins. Making out the actual structures takes a bit of imagination, but the mystery is part of the magic of this place. Another path leads through the ruins to the triple-arched entrance known as the Arc de Triomphe, past the Jupiter Temple and to the Forum, which another path leads to the octagonal Pool of the Nymph, part of the original Roman system of water distribution.
Far easier to discern are the remains of the Islamic complex, with its elegant minaret now topped by a very large stork’s nest. An incredible colony of storks have taken over these ruins, lording over the entire site from their tree-top nests. The clacking bills of mating pairs is a wonderful soundtrack to any visit. The weather had been threatening rain most of the morning and by the time I left Chellah, gentle showers had started which soon turned into a downpour. Thankfully it’s not really cold – probably in the low 60’s – and the fresh, wet air feels pretty good. My last stop was to walk through the Kasbah of Oudayas which is the oldest part of the city and the site of the original Rabat, commanding powerful views over the river and ocean from its cliff-top perch. The Kasbah is predominately residential and the narrow streets are lined with houses painted in deep blue and white, most of which were built by Muslim refugees after being expelled from Spain in the 16
th century. It’s a quiet, tranquil and picturesque place to wander and simply get lost. Around every corner is a delight to the senses, and small cafes are to be found on the walls, overlooking the river.
The most dramatic entry to the Kasbah is via the enormous Almohad Gate of Bab Oudaia, built in 1195. Its location, facing the heart of the city and just outside the original palace, made it more ceremonial than defensive, and the gateway is elaborately decorated with a series of carved arches. Inside the gateway the main street, Rue Jamaa, runs straight through the Kasbah and leads to the oldest mosque in Rabat, built in the 12
th century and restored during the 18
th.
It was now almost noon and with the rain still falling, it was a good time to return to the hotel and grab a few more hours of sleep to get back onto this time zone – I’m still a few hours short! I got this blog started, took a shower and decided to nap and think about dinner later this evening. That didn’t happen…..I fell asleep around 4pm and other than once or twice waking up to sip some water, I didn’t wake up fully until 5am! Obviously I was much more exhausted than I first thought. A beautiful day awaited me – cloudless blue skies, brilliant sunshine and definitely warmer – this bores well for the day’s drive to Fez. A delicious buffet breakfast got me activated and we left the hotel via bus at 8:30am. A delightful 2-hour drive in glorious weather brought us to the holy city of Moulay Idriss which lies on a hillside just outside of Fez, Morocco’s third largest city. It’s spread over two hills at the base of Mount Zerhoun and its holds a special place in the hearts of the Moroccan people. It was here that Moulay Idriss I arrived in 789AD bringing with him the religion of Islam, and starting a new dynasty. In addition to founding the town which now bears his name, he also initiated construction of Fez, which was later continued and completed by his son, Moulay Idriss II.
The town itself is compact, and its narrow streets feel familiar to anyone who has spent any time in the medinas of other Moroccan cities. Just off the main square is the Mausoleum of Idriss I, a sacred destination that is only open to Muslims. It is said in Morocco that six pilgrimages to Moulay Idriss during the annual festival honoring the saint, is equivalent to going to Haj in Mecca. One special item is the round minaret at another mosque in town, which is the only round one in the entire country. The ruins of the Phoenician and Roman cite of Volubiis are located just 3 miles away and many materials from here were taken in order to build Moulay Idriss. It is located on a hilltop with sweeping views of the surrounding countryside, all under cultivation by the local people. It is an excellent example of life 2,000 years ago in the region and excavation of the site continues to day. I spent an hour wandering around the ruins taking some famous photos, before returning to the bus.
We arrived in Fez around 4pm and after a short city tour on the bus with a photo stop high above the famous Medina – home of 9,000 streets, none of which have a name - we arrived at our hotel for the next two nights, Barcelo Fez Medina, located on the main street. It’s a great hotel, I stayed here last year. The first evening in Fez was spent having the most marvelous dinner in the home of local residents a short drive from the hotel. We spent a delightful two hours in their home being fed a wonderful 3-course home cooked meal. The vegetable soup as a starter was light and flavorful, followed by a vegetable tagine, fish/chicken/ground meat in phyllo pastry pastries and a large bowl of fresh fruit for desert. Hot mint tea and honey/almond cookies completed this culinary delight – we had to stagger down the stairs, we were all stuffed to the gills. This is definitely a warm-up for the upcoming Culinary Demonstration and Tagine Lunch we will have once we reach Marrakesh in a few days.
Fez is an Imperial City that has stood in the north of Morocco for a thousand years. Within its dusty walls is the place where old Morocco still exists – in the elaborate architecture, the historic medina and the throngs of people that make their home here. Walking through high-walled streets, watching the daily procession of mourners entering the tomb of Fez’s found Moulay Idriss II, and seeing the ornate carvings and mosaics on every surface, it’s easy to see why Fez is called the spiritual heart of the country. Time seems to have stopped in large parts of this medina – nowhere else can you find such a strong link to the Kingdom’s past. But it’s certainly not a place completely without its modern comforts. There are plenty of 5-star hotels and excellent restaurants to satisfy every taste. Fez was the capital of modern Morocco until 1925 and is now the capital of the Fes-Meknes administrative region. The city has two old medina quarters the larger of which is Fes el Bali. It is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is believed to the one of the world’s oldest car-free urban areas. The University of al-Qarawiyyin founded in 859AD, is the oldest continuously functioning madrasa in the world, and Fez has also been called the “Mecca of the West” and the “Athens of Africa”.
Leaving the Barcelo hotel around 8:30am to what promised to be another glorious bright and sunny day, we first drove to a high point in the city overlooking the incredible Medina. It was cold and breezy, but the views from this vantage point, are definitely not to be missed – a fabulous photo stop for sure. Then it was down the hill and off the bus to spend the majority of the day within the walls of this famed and fabulous old city of Fez. We would walking approximately 4-5 miles in the next 7+ hours, but thankfully it was cool and comfortable in the shade of the narrow walkways and tiny open- air squares. Within a couple of minutes and a couple of blocks we lost all sense of direction – it would be virtually impossible for a stranger to ever find their way in this labyrinth of centuries-old buildings. We walked past the many trades to be found here, i.e. dentists, carpenters, knife grinders, bakers, shoe makers and the traditional “beaten copper” pots and pans artisans. It’s sheer chaos, its exotic, it’s fascinating and it’s wonderful…..all rolled into one…..what a fabulous experience this location is.
Around 1pm we were all more than ready for both a break from the tiring walk and some food, and both requests were answered when we entered a beautifully-decorated riad in the heart of the medina. We spent the next 1.5 hours dining on a selection of cooked salads, breads, tagine, couscous, vegetables and a fresh fruit…..needless to say, we were stuffed by the time we waddled out of that building! It was time to leave this incredible place and head for a visit to the Jewish Cemetery, just outside the Medina. Another interesting and awesome location before we re-boarded the bus and made our way back to the hotel for our final night in Fez. Early the next morning we were greeted with beautiful weather and that certainly boded well for the rest of the day. We were headed south, on the long drive from Fez to Erfoud – a distance of some 418 km – and along with Marrakesh, probably my most favorite Morocco destination. Along the route, we passed by the Ziz Valley which contains one of the largest data palm oasis in Africa (if not the world), containing thousands upon thousands of trees stretching for some 17 miles paralleling the Ziz River.
Erfoud – gateway to the Sahara – is a city located in south east Morocco depending mainly on tourism due to the proximity of Merzouga village close to the Erg Chebbi Dunes. Also known as Arfoud, it has quite a recent past. Although many ancient fortified villages have existed in the region for several centuries, Erfoud was built up by French troops after the difficult victory of Tafilalet Battle, which took place between 1916 and 1932. It is an extremely active place, full of commerce, restaurants and street cafes, hotels, banks and even ATMs – it definitely qualifies as the tourist capital of the region. In spite of being a very modern city, Erfoud still preserves the authenticity of a true Arab town with an impressively “wild” market and gorgeous surrounding landscapes, filled with oases, dunes and rocky mountain ranges. Surprisingly enough, it is also a cinema hub for many movie directors. Some well-known films have several scenes shot in Erfoud including the Price of Persia in 2010, March or Die in 1977 and The Mummy in 1999.
Some of the city’s attractions well worth a visit, include the Royal Palace Gate, Saturday Market and the panoramic view from the top of the Borj-Est which rises 3067’ above the city. Fossil sites abound here and can be purchased at reasonable prices in the Maadid Ksar. We arrived at my all-time favorite hotel, Xaluca Maadid, just as dusk approached and were greeted as usual, by a Berber in full traditional white robes and turban. As we entered the beautifully-decorated lobby, a 3-piece band struck up a musical welcome accompanied by a belly dancer. The check-in process was speedy and efficient, as it was very apparent we were the only tour group currently staying here. It had been a long driving day and most of the group were exhausted, but we all quickly found our rooms, unpacked for the 2-night stay, and re-grouped in the dining room at 7pm for dinner. The Xaluca always puts on a fabulous buffet spread in the onsite dining room, and tonight was no exception. A roaring wood fire was spreading warm from the middle of the large room, and for the next couple of hours, we “chowed down” on a variety of salads, entrees, breads and desserts….it really doesn’t get any better that this in Morocco! With the exception of a couple of other diners in the room, we were the only guests, so had great attention from the wait staff.
Also known as Kasbah Hotel Xaluca, this location is listed as unique in Morocco due to its distinctive characteristics. It was built with adobe, the traditional Moroccan bricks, and offers 134 spacious rooms as well as 8 bungalows – all decorated with regional materials. It really is a fantastic place, reminiscent of “The Arabian Nights” while combining tradition with modern amenities. It is situated approximately 2 miles from the actual village of Erfoud. After a great night’s sleep it was time to begin our sightseeing day in this delightful region. First we stopped at a local fossil store which mines, cleans, polishes and sells these incredible artifacts. Then it was a stop at a mausoleum, followed by yet another medina and by lunch it was time to meet up with our 4x4 vehicles which would be taking us all out to the Sahara for the rest of the day. 4 people plus driver to each vehicle and we set off to explore this magical land. The next 30 minutes, we drove out of civilization and into the Sahara, stopping first at a small nomad settlement where we met the family who made their home here. Alisha is 22 years old, never been to school, unable to read or write and has a 6-month old son. Her husband works in a mine and returns only on weekends. There is no running water, no electricity, no nothing but tents, carpets, pillows and sand! Not a life I could easily adapt to, that’s for sure.
From here we drove another few minutes and arrived at a Berber camp where we would have lunch. It’s an oasis and obviously designed for tourists, but delightful none the less. It was buffet style with plenty of salads, meats and fresh fruit – enough to satisfy any appetite in the group. We spent a couple of hours here and then it was off for another drive to the dunes – nothing like flying off a high dune in a 4x4 to assist with digestion. Here we left the vehicles and climbed aboard our next mode of transportation – camels. For those who have never ridden one, it’s not the most comfortable way to travel but interesting for sure. It was a 20-minute ride on the back of one of these incredible animals to arrive at a high dune where we would spend the next hour or so waiting for sunset. This is really a marvelous region – sand as far as the eye can see – silence abounds, you can almost hear it. I sat on the side of one dune and watched the shadow creep slowly over the lower dunes – it was as though a dark force was covering the liquid gold landscape, rippling like waves on an ocean. As the sun started to set, the temperature started downwards as well. Darkness comes fast in the desert – its light and bright
one minute, the next the moon and stars are your only beacons in the encroaching night. Time to mount our trusty steeds once more and make our way back to the campsite and return to the 4x4 vehicles for the hour drive back to Erfoud. What a fabulous day!
Our final evening at the Xaluca was a festive one. Another fantastic buffet dinner awaited our return from the desert safari and I was more than ready to hit the sheets upon returning to my room. A pleasant surprise awaited me. A lovely wooden icon and mirror in the shape of the front of the hotel, sat on my bed with a note thanking me for my return visit. Also a massive platter of fresh food (tangerines, oranges, apples, bananas, grapes) along with a plate of nuts sat on the coffee table. There was enough fruit for the entire group, so I will be taking this on the bus with me tomorrow. An early departure the next morning with another brilliant weather day in store. We were headed west towards Ouarazazate, which is known as the Hollywood of Morocco. They have two large studios in this Berber city and many movies from the mid 1950’s thru 2014 have been shot here. It’s a long drive from Erfoud but thankfully we had enough stops for photo taking etc., to break the journey. It was while we were enroute that I felt the ominous rumblings and grumblings in my gut, and by the time we arrived at the Ibis Hotel that late afternoon, I knew I was in for a rough time healthwise. And so it came to pass. I was able to get thru that night and the next day’s drive to Marrakesh without too much problem, but once checked into the Novatel Hotel, things went from bad to worse.
To put it mildly, I just about prayed for death during the next 36 hours in my hotel room. I don’t believe I have ever spent as much time in a bathroom in such a short space of time – it was either pouring out of one end or the other! No idea where I picked up this bug as I’m generally careful about what I eat and drink in certain countries, but I guess I wasn’t careful enough this trip. I survived on water for the next two days but was incapable of joining any sightseeing activities, I was simply too weak and ill to even consider them. This is one way to quickly lose weight, but I don’t recommend it to anyone. Thankfully we were staying in Marrakesh long enough for me to recover before the long drive back to Casablanca- there is a god! LOL There is a positive side to this. Having been here previously, at least I know what I’m missing and there is always the next time in Morocco. So here I sit in my hotel room, windows and balcony door wide open, listening to the bird song around the swimming pool. The sun is warming the area and if I feel I’m well enough, I will take a short walk around the neighborhood later today. I did manage to eat some breakfast but not taking any bets right now, that I can keep it down!
The end of another day and I have returned to the land of the living, so to speak. After some much needed medicine, finally I began to feel much better and though I’m not yet ready to try eating solid food (no, the breakfast didn’t stay down), I have been able to drink a few cups of hot tea, heavily laced with sugar as a substitute. I have high hopes I will almost be back to relative normal by tomorrow morning.
Let’s talk about this marvelous city for a moment- Marrakesh is Morocco’s 4th largest city after Casablanca, Rabat and Fes. Located to the north of the foothills of the snow-capped Atlas Mountains, it is possibly the most important of the country’s 4 former imperial cities (cities that were built by Moroccan-Berber empires). This region has been inhabited by Berber farmers since Neolithic times, but the city was actually founded in 1062 by Abu Bakr ibn Umar, chieftain and cousin of the Almoravid king. In the 12th century it earned its nickname of ”Red City” as so many of the buildings were constructed in red sandstone. It grew rapidly and established itself as a cultural, religious and trading center for sub-Saharan Africa and the famous Jemaa el-Fnaa is the busiest square in Africa. In 1912 the French Protectorate in Morocco was established and Thami el Glaoui become Pasha of Marrakesh, holding this position for most of the duration until the role was dissolved upon independence and the re-establishment of the monarchy in 1956. In 2009 Fatima Zahra Mansouri became the 2
nd woman ever in Morocco, to be elected Marrakesh’s mayor.
Like many cities in this country, Marrakesh comprises an old fortified city packed with vendors and their stalls (the medina) bordered by modern neighborhoods, the most prominent of which is Gueliz. Today it is one of the busiest cities in Africa and serves as a major economic center and tourist destination. It was rated as the world’s top tourist destination in 2015. The current reigning monarch, Mohammed VI, is a strong advocate of tourism and has a goal of doubling the number of tourists visiting Morocco to 20 million annually, by 2020. Marrakesh boasts some 18 souks selling wares ranging from traditional Berber carpets to modern consumer electronics. Crafts employ a significant percentage of the population, who primarily sell their products to tourists. After a 7am wakeup call, I made my way down to the hotel’s restaurant. Actually got a decent night’s sleep without a single mad dash to the bathroom – there’s a new concept! Still feeling very weak but if breakfast stays down – which I really believe it will – I expect to be able to function all day today. As much as I adore this city, I won’t be sorry to move on this time. Having spent the entire time in my hotel room, it’s just a bad memory for this trip. The bus left promptly at 8:30am and headed north thru the cultivated landscape of Morocco’s richest farmland, passing miles of small village with endless fields of wheat and barley, dotted periodically with herds of sheep and goats, closely guarded by shepherds.
Just before noon we arrived in this famous and fabled city located on the northwest Atlantic coast. First a drive around the city center for orientation and then stopping finally at the Novotel Casa Center Hotel, just a block from the main railway station and old harbor. I spent the afternoon resting and getting ready for tonight’s farewell dinner with the group at a delightful restaurant om the ocean corniche. Casablanca is Morocco’s largest city and the country’s main port which translates into quite a few gritty and industrial-looking neighborhoods. But the city is also the most cosmopolitan of this country’s cities, with nightclubs, fast food chains and high-end boutiques. Casablanca is often the first stop for international passengers flying in from all points of the compass, and the city is basically used as a transit point. It has both the advantages and disadvantages of a typical large North Africa city and commercial capital. There are more than 3 million residents and it’s the largest port in North Africa.
There is much to see and do here. The Hassan II Mosque took more than 6,000 Moroccan artisans and 5 years to build this magnificent mosque, with its intricate mosaics, stone and marble floors and columns, sculpted plaster moldings and carved painted wood ceilings. It’s the largest mosque in the world with room for more than 100,000 worshipers, but non-muslims are forbidden to enter. Casablanca’s medina is quite small but still a great place to just get lost in, while exploring the shops in the nooks and crannies. It offers a great contrast to the wide streets and modern/dilapidated architecture that marks the rest of the city. Be sure to check out the Marche Central in the center of town for wonderful displays of food, spices and fish. It takes place daily along the Boulevard Mohammed V, which is Casablanca’s busiest shopping street.
Sometimes referred to as the “South Beach of Morocco”, the Corniche is basically a boardwalk lined with restaurants and nightclubs. It’s where locals go to relax and have fun. Strolling down the Corniche, it’s a welcome relief to feel the sea breeze on your face, especially if the past few days have been spent inland in the dry, desert heat. Finally consider a visit to Place Mohammed V which has a large fountain (lit with hundreds of colored lights at night), and is surrounded by lovely examples of French Colonial architecture. It’s a great place to sit and watch the working world pass you by and there are always dozens of pigeons waiting to be fed! The best time to visit Casablanca is during the winter months, as it never really gets that cold and is blessed with a mild climate. Summers are hot but the cooling Atlantic Ocean breezes makes it much more bearable than the inland cities of Marrakesh or Fes. 7pm and everyone was ready for the final bus ride before we bid adieu to each other and this marvelous country. La Terranza is a pricy fine dining restaurant right on the ocean, with breath taking views of the Atlantic from within a glass-enclosed dining room complete with open fireplace in the center. Spent a lovely 2 hours enjoying a first class meal complete with wine, and chatting about our entire experiences in each city we have visited. It was a sad goodbye time for everyone present as we boarded our bus for the return trip to the Novotel. We would be leaving at different times in the morning, so this was the last time we would be together as a cohesive group. And so it came to a close….yet another fantastic adventure to store away as glorious memories to be enjoyed in the years to come……and now on to the next one!
Cheers!!!!!
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Sadie
non-member comment
Great to meet you!
Thanks for this lovely travelogue of our amazing trip - can't wait for the next adventures :-).