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Published: December 6th 2015
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PERU: Machu Picchu...entering the eyes of the cat. Some animals look shy...some coy...some defiant...some blankly...some all knowing.
An alpaca as if it's about to laugh...a llama as if it's going to waggle it's behind...a Peruvian dog as if it's come in a spacecraft.
But it's only the cat that conveys airs of mastery...and of mystery.
Kinda think the Incas would've elevated cats to god-like status...if the Egyptians hadn't thought of it first.
Some look surprised...some proud...some with allure...some as if they are in charge...some blah blah zay.
But when I enter a cat's eyes I enter it's psyche...a spiritual place...ethereal...out of this World.
Where there are stony greys...splintered yellows...fractured black & whites...shimmering greens...proud airs...whiskers of clouds...shards of light.
A bit like Machu Picchu...when you are up at that height.
******
Always thought it was hard to get to.
Our daughter walked for days along the Inca Trail.
Then had her camera stolen from her bag in Cusco and lost all her photos.
Have to be careful.
Altitude can also be a killer we were told.
I was OK in Tibet and when I climbed
that mountain in Yunnan.
But Machu Picchu...2,430 to 2,720m...been much much higher.
Reckon I'll be OK up there as well.
Always thought it was hard to get to.
******
So we decided to go by train.
Up extra early...cold showers...didn't wake Stephen to turn on the hot water for our showers...sorry he said...you've gotta look your best.
Storing our suitcases at Casa de Wow.
Only taking overnight bags as we are returning to Ollantaytambo.
Mo-ped the cobbled streets to the Railway Station...ladies selling textiles...but all we want is coca tea.
The early morning light opens like a curtain...the sun rising like a play about to start.
Then the train pulls into the station and it starts to hit me...like a tickle climbing my legs...grabbing my torso...squeezing my neck.
I've wanted to come to Machu Picchu since I was a kid.
Excitement...yep...gotta swallow...that's weird...who's squeezing my neck?
The guard pushing me on board...or is it Denise?
A cat sliding around the corner...flashing a glance...then on it's way...followed by it's tail.
We're going to Machu Picchu...somehow...and we ain't gonna fail.
******
Peru Rail laid on the fanciest train in all our travels...a Vistadome...180 degree views from seat level our side to seat level the other.
Views of river to sky to jungle...one & a half hours of luxury.
And that's not even the best train on offer!
Yet our train guards turned into cat walk fashion models on our return.
From Ollantaytambo at 2,792m...along the river past Veronica peak at 5,692m...past the entry points of the Inca Trail...tasty breakfast...Inca sights of WiƱacaywayna and Choquesuysuy...through mountain passes and jungle...villages that make me itch imagining mosquitoes feasting.
And then a whistle to say we are there...Aguas Calientas...the end of our journey by train.
Looking at those massive cliffs on all sides...now I understand.
No one told me we'd have to climb the likes of those.
But can't really be surprised.
Machu Picchu...always thought it was hard to get to!
******
The river was boiling and frothing outside our hotel...imagine it like the red spot on Jupiter but somewhat smaller.
Guess that rules out white water rafting as a way of getting here.
A town comprising a shambles
of hotels, hostels, funky restaurants, massage parlours, trinket stalls and that's about all.
'Cept a hot springs pool area renting towels...and yep...a bus depot.
So if you don't wanna climb the steep steps up the cliffs to get to Machu Picchu...its not really hard to get to after all!
Best pillows in Peru...dreaming as the raging river drowned our weary bones with its call.
******
Buses leave every 5 minutes but wise to buy tickets the day before as we did to avoid queues...US$19 each.
Then up and up and up and up...180 degree bends so many I lost count...cliff one side...sheer drop the other...narrow road...single lane in places...driver's mate on a two-way with any buses coming down.
25 mins of belief in the driver's skill and knowing if our time is up it will be over quick.
Then we are there...among the throng heading to the gate...passports and tickets ready.
Weather misty but fine.
A gaggle of guys jostling to be our guides...all pressing the same price...150 soles.
But a scruffy tan cat with a rumpled brow and green eyes catches my eye.
Leads us
to the only woman guide...120 soles.
Denise high-fiving...girl power...she shall be our guide...men cursing...the cat hissing...smiles from us all round.
And thus we met Geneth...delightful lady with the brim of her hat turned up.
Peruvian fluent in Spanish, English & French.
Leading us up a path...up some steps...through a hut and there it was.
One of the Wonders of the World.
All before us.
Always thought it was hard to get to.
But we are here...can't believe our eyes.
Pinch me...I said pinch me.
******
Words are difficult to describe its wonderment.
I've seen zillions of photos but as usual it was as if I'd never seen any.
Stone terraces, stones walls of peaked dwellings dotted up the hill, temples in the best spots, drops into endless abysses on the right and left.
Truly a sacred place in the sky.
Built by ancient cultures, perfected by the Incas, hidden from the Spanish.
Only rediscovered in 1911 by the American Hyram Bingham who had heard of someone farming up there and made the precipitous climb to find out where.
He made a
number of trips clearing vegetation...and taking thousands of treasures back to the USA.
I heard Peru made various attempts to get the treasures back.
But I never heard the end of the story...'cause I was distracted by a cat.
I look into Geneth's eyes...her words climbing like clouds spiraling in a timeless wind.
I enter a spiritual place...ethereal...out of this World.
Where there are stony greys...splintered yellows...fractured black & whites...shimmering greens...proud airs...whiskers of clouds...shards of light.
Entering the eyes of the cat.
A bit like Machu Picchu...up at that height.
Relax & Enjoy,
Dancing Dave
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Ake Och Emma
Ake Dahllof and Emma Holmbro
The sunrise view of MP
A few years ago we walked the Inca Trail. After having walked for several days on the final day we went up at 4 o'clock to be able to get to the MP entry point (the upper entry point, not the lower that you used) in time for the opening. We then walked to a viewing platform to get to see the sun rise over MP. When the sun was up we got so disappointed when we realized that the people who had decided to take the train and the bus were already swarming the ruins. After having walked for days and then been up long before sunrise we had earned the right to have MP for ourselves for at least an hour but were denied that. Next time we will also take the train. /Ake