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Published: October 5th 2015
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Entrance gates from Hospice of San Juan de Arce
These have been reclaimed from the now ruined 13th Century hospice and adorn the cemetery. 1 October 2015, Tuesday. Stage 9 tomorrow is a rest day!
GPS: 11.1 miles, moving 4 hours 19 minutes, left 0830 arrived 1400 so 5 hours 30 minutes from hotel tp hotel
Fitbit: 10.96 miles, 71 floors, 25,093 steps
1 September, Tuesday , Navarette to Najera ('place between rocks' from Arabic) GPS
This day might just be memorable for the worst breakfast on the camino. When there is such great. bread and morning pastries why do we have packaged muffins and coffee con leche that is so-so. Ah, we are getting very spoiled! Served at Villa de Navarette; room fine but no food.
Out of town and past the cemetery. Here we have a masterful example of recycling. The splendidly carved 13th century entrance gateway has been relocated from the ruins of the hospice of San Juan de Arce on the eastern outskirts of town!
After awhile we decide to take a the route up the hill to Ventosa which is touting itself as a kilometer of art detour. We are thinking of outdoor sculpture and other works that can stand up to the elements. We work our way into town without sighting nary one
The Scallop shell display
This symbol for the Camino is the only discernible art in the 1 kilometer of art to Ventosa. piece of what we could recognize as art. The same result has been encountered by others and we all have a good laugh as we feel we have really been tricked by the locals. There is a lovely cafe, however, and we have a good rest stop. On the way out of town we climb a small hill to San Saturnino church. It is locked up tight but we do finally find an original work of art. There is a home with one blank side wall facing the church and on the wall have been affixed many different styles, sizes and colors of scallop shells. It is really striking, this and the cafe keep the side trip to Ventosa from being a complete hoax!
The route today is rather jagged and rather zig-zag in an attempt to keep us off or too near the A-12 that carries heavy traffic and many huge transports.
We wind our way up through an isolated pass between two small hills where we find little stone 'altars' erected by pilgrims pausing to soak up the mystery of this mythical place. On the left is 'Alto de San Anton,' site of an early pilgrim
Manicured to a skeleton
These trees are a frequent sight. Except this one boasts a pair of shoes on a limb. hospital while on the right is ''Roldan's (Roland's) Hill." Here we are led to believe Roldan slew the Syrian Muslim giant, Ferragut, with a well-aimed rock. Roland liberated the town (where Ferragut ruled) and freed the captive Christian knights of Charlemagne's army.
We leave the wide farm track through vineyards, passing near a beehive hut in front of a gravel works.
Next is a long graffiti poem written on a wall and translated by its German author, "Pilgrim Who Calls Who?"
Soon we find ourselves in Najera but must travel to the far end, over the River Najerilla. This bridge needs to be quite sturdy as this river has a long history of playing havoc with this town, once the capital of Navarre in the 11th and 12thc. The Old Town is sandwiched between the river and a high rock face that acts as a dramatic backdrop for its ancient Castillo.
We will be busy with a 'field trip' during our rest day tomorrow so decide to visit Monasterio Santa Maria de la Real with its magnificent Royal Pantheon hosting the burial places of many of the Kings, Queens and knights of Navarre. The pantheon is
Stone piles and statue
Roland slaying the giant moor and freeing the town in a separate part of the church and passing by this area one enters a cave. The church was built at this spot following the legend that the son of Sancho the Great, Don Gqrcia, followed his hunting falcon into this cave and came upon a statue of the Virginia Mary. The church also has interesting choir stalls bearing pilgrim motifs carved into the seat rests.
Hostal ciudad de Najera is quite charming and we have a pleasant room, purple walls. It would really be quite idyllic except for a most noisy family across the street. We venture out and have a mediocre dinner in Old Town. We have stopped by one enticing spot but she will not open until later in the evening. This is a common situation. We are usually very tired in the evening and would like to clean-up, go out for a meal and then come home for a early departure to slumberland as that alarm goes off way too early in the dark!
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Bob Ferguson
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Subman Blog
Harlan/Karen: Great comments. Enjoy them all. bob & LaRae