Sting Ray City

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STING RAY CITY



GRAND CAYMAN







When I stepped up into the van that would take me to the boat for Cayman’s Sting Ray City excursion, I said something about Cayman not being a backpacker’s kind of place. The driver glanced back at me and said a bit accusingly, “A bit old for that, aren’t you?” I was surprised that he had said this out loud. So was he, I think. He tried smoothing it over by saying, well anyway, he was too old for backpacking. I told him that was how I managed to travel for the last two summers. Then he did the, “Oh, you’re much younger than me” thing, and we exchanged ages. He was surprised that I was two decades older than he (or was he feigning it?)



I had a nice chat with Mark, my driver and owner of the boat, Moby Dick, while he drove to the marina. I joined about twenty other tourists and locals of all ages and we motored out toward the sand bar where we would have the opportunity to interact with sting rays. We exchanged stories on the twenty five minute ride to brilliant turquoise shallow water. The sandy bottom was almost blindingly white. We could see the shadowy forms of dozens of various sized rays as they darted about the boat.



Mark gave an informative talk about the sting rays, including a description of their stingers, and he cautioned us not to thrash around and get stung. He demonstrated how to hold these unusual creatures, how to feed them squid, and how not to get a sting ray hickey. We were told to leave our fins on the boat; I couldn’t even wear my booties. That made me nervous because I don’t like being in the water with a mucky bottom, where you don’t know what you are stepping on. I had no need to worry. The bottom was clean white sand. There was a little seaweed hanging in the water and I jumped every time a piece brushed my arm.



It took me a while to get my balance, clear my mask and get oriented. I was having trouble keeping my head above water, since I am short. Finally I found a shallower area and then discovered that I would have my head under water most of the time anyway. That was what the snorkel was for.



There were maybe ten boats in the area, each with about fifteen to twenty people in them, so getting a photo of the rays without a human arm or leg in the way was tricky. But get them, I did. We could stroke the sting rays as they swam by. They liked to rub themselves against the snorkelers, too. Twice, with help from the boat staff, I got to hold a ray in my arms. It was a unique experience, and one not to be missed when you visit Grand Cayman.



Afterward the boat moored a little way off on a nice shallow reef. We snorkeled for about three quarters of an hour. On the drive back to my apartment, the driver and I chatted some more. We had both been to many of the same great dive destinations over the years.



But the “old” thing was still rattling around in my head. It divided and spread. I got to thinking about my mom and dad who had both lived to a ripe old age. I remembered my dad hiking on the Pacific Crest Trail at 90, and my hiking/scuba buddy scornfully asking if he would have to hike with me when I was that old. Of course I said jestingly, “Of course.” With these memories bombarding my skull the song, “Oh, my papa” got caught in my head, and I found myself wishing lyrics and greeting card sentiments could be a little more realistic. I can’t remember my daddy holding me on his knee, or changing my tears to laughter or ever understanding. But I do remember that I enjoyed conversing with him more than with any other man I have ever known. He knew so many things, he could fix just about anything, and he always had something interesting to say. Of course he had an opinion about everything, too. He could be tough, hard headed and ornery. Sometimes he was the very definition of “curmudgeon”. But he was also an inspiration. At 96, shortly before he died he said, “I had a good life. I wouldn’t have changed a thing.”



I guess the moral of this story is, maybe it isn’t such a bad thing when we sometimes stick our foot in our mouth by saying aloud something we have been thinking. I would have missed the chance to ponder and appreciate the long and interesting life of the man who introduced my kids and me to backpacking if Mark hadn’t said, “Aren’t you a little too old for that?”



Thanks, Mark.

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Photos

A close encounter.
There were so many people in the water, I had to work hard to get photos without human arms and legs.

A Pair of Rays, synchronized swimming...
You can just see the tip of another ray in the corner of this photo. There were a lot of rays.

One other person with a snorkel
At first many people were uncomfortable with the rays.

Too close to a boat prop.
The ray is healthy.

Comments

[D MJ Binkley]

Profiling
Not good when they think they have you figured out by taking a quick look at you. Age is a mental state and sounds like you are still a young traveler. We've been to Sting Ray city and the only bad thing is too many people rough up the sand. I'm glad you had the time to ponder. Enjoy

[Never too old]

The driver's statement took me by surprise. I forget I am so much older than some. He was very nice to me, actually.
Guess I got lucky; although there were many people I was able to get many really good photos of the sting rays. It helps if you wear your mask. Thanks for the kind words.