Sleepless in Split, Now Taking on Turkey

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After eating up the leftovers in our fridge and packing our bags once again, we headed down to The Riva to have a nightcap in order to use up most of our Croatian Kunas. After enjoying the nightlife on the promenade, we made our way back and prepared for our early morning departure. A shuttle was to pick us up at a corner near our place at 4:30AM to take us to the Split Airport. While reading before settling in, I thought I would just check a couple of things regarding the shuttle and hotel when we reached Istanbul. While scanning through my emails from the hotel, I came across a tidbit I had missed before leaving home. They wanted to be paid in Euros of which I only had enough to cover our shuttle in the morning and two more in Istanbul!!! I became quite frantic at that point as to how I was going to manage this blip. This little adventure began shortly after midnight. I woke up Curtis and explained the dilemna. "It will be fine. We will just ask them how much it is in Turkish Liras and get some from the bank machine in Istanbul," whereupon he promptly rolled over and snuggled back into slumber. I may have growled. Typically, the night before a travel day is always rather sleepless for me, especially when we first began using the train system and taking buses. So unable to sleep, I began researching the Zagreb Airport to see if there was an Exchange Office and the rate I would pay to change Kunas (of which I had only 40) to Euros. Around 1:15 AM I suddenly came across another, more imperative, bit of information. This one sent me flying right out of bed! Apparently, as of January 2015, it was necessary for all people travelling to Turkey to have a visa as well as their passport before entering the country. I just about had a coronary!! I sat up at the table, shivering in my nightie, trying to find out all I could about this visa (while Curtis was counting mountain goats or Croatian wild boars). After reading and re-reading websites, I finally came across the information that saved our bacon. I was able to apply online and get an instant visa for both of us! So by 2:00 AM, for the low price of $140 USD, I had the e-visas saved on my ipad. I was no closer to solving the Euro problem but decided there wasn't much more I could do at that point. After more tossing and turning, now worrying about whether or not the shuttle appeared at 4:30 and then thinking of the day ahead which involved three flights to reach Istanbul, I am not overly fond of flying. I am definitely better than I was years ago but sometimes the fear tends to creep back in, especially knowing I was about to do all three flights drug-free (Ativan is usually my flying friend). I finally fell asleep around 3:00 AM shortly before the 3:30 alarm!

At 4:20AM we stood on the street, remarking to one another that it would be quite a problem if he didn't show up. Luck intervened and a shuttle appeared! Our flight to Zagreb was uneventful and quick, pretty much up and down. Once we arrived, and still obsessing about the money issue, I went to the Exchange Office and asked how many Kunas I would need for the amount I owed the hotel. The lady calculated it out and I found the bank machine. Returning to Curtis, Euros in hand, he just smiled, knowing I would not be at peace until I had resolved it.

As we went up to get our boarding passes for the flight to Belgrade, the girl asked for our visas. Thank you to the angel who lead me to finding that very necessary information in the wee hours of the morning! Our flight from Zagreb to Belgrade was on a prop plane, not my favourite style of plane for sure, but again it was just over an hour so not too painful. Our final flight of the day was on a large plane and we were in the 3rd row, so lots of leg room. Upon landing at the massive Ataturk Airport we made it through the long line at passport control without an issue and went out to the Arrivals area to search for our shuttle. After perusing the sea of signs being held up, Curtis finally spotted the one that said, "Susan Cayne"! Our driver took us to the van where upon we embarked on quite the ride through the busy city of Istanbul. It is very much like Toronto for sure! Soon we left the new part of the city and entered the Sultanahmet area where we got our first glimpse of the mammoth Blue Mosque and the Aya Sofiya. They are absolutely gorgeous and as it turns out, our hotel is only a couple blocks away! We met with the hotel owner's brother who told us that we didn't have to pay until tomorrow!!!! Glad I fretted about that all night! Our room is very quaint and as we unpacked a few things we were charmed by the call to prayer. Truly a beautiful sound emanating through the city streets.

As we awoke early we were happy to see blue skies and sunshine. However, this was relatively short-lived. As we ascended up to the top floor of our hotel for breakfast we were disappointed to see that the clouds had moved in and it was raining. We lingered over our coffee and tea before heading out to explore.

As we rounded the first corner past our hotel we stopped into a travel agency and booked a cruise along the Bosphorus Friday afternoon. After struggling with the bank machine (which also gives out Euros after all my fretting!), we then headed up to the Blue Mosque. As we went up the steps amongst the crowds of people a young, good-looking Turkish man asked if I had anything to cover my head when I entered the mosque. I said,"No" that I would borrow one inside. He then walked along with us chatting amicably about the Blue Mosque and telling us that it is very busy right now and it was always better to come back later in the afternoon. He then took us around the side, still talking a mile a minute. I turned back to Curtis and the young man said, "It's okay, I am not a tour guide but I will just show you a couple of things." He then stopped at the Obelisk of Theodosius, the Serpentine Column and the Rough Stone Obelisk, giving us a brief history of each. Next he lead us to where the Arasta Bazaar was and went on to say that his family has a carpet store there. Conveniently, that is just where we ended up! We were treated to a lesson on how carpets are made, the different techniques and styles based on area of Turkey they come from, the types of patterns, the length of time it takes to make different ones, the list goes on and on. By this time we are downstairs, where other tourists were sitting and buying rugs and sipping tea. We were brought delicious apple tea and dozens of rugs were laid out before us on the floor. A fabulous array of colours, patterns, and sizes swam at my feet. If the kind man had his way I was buying a carpet at that moment because, in his words, "If you see what you like, then you buy it, you don't need to think about it!". We graciously shook his hand, took his card, and thanked him for all of his time. He walked us out and we headed back up to the Blue Mosque. Wow, didn't see that one coming!!! I'll say one thing, they are smooth salespeople, right from the helpful young man who regaled us with a brief history lesson to the carpet seller. It runs like a well-oiled machine for sure. We just laughed, wondering how many other unsuspecting tourists would get the same spiel as we did!

We then did wait in line to enter the majestic Blue Mosque. This place of worship is only referred to by tourists as the Blue Mosque, as the Turkish people call it the Sultan Ahmed Mosque. The line was long but moved fairly quickly. I got a stylish piece of blue sheet to cover my head and we then had to remove our shoes and put them in a bag as shoes are not allowed inside. The stench of smelly feet was quite overwhelming as we made our way down the hall. I kept blaming Curtis but he said that it was definitel NOT his feet!

As we entered this majestic place of worship we were in awe of the beautiful tiled domes. The walls were adorned with gorgeous tiles, especially blue ones, thus the name "Blue Mosque". It has one main dome, six minarets, and eight secondary domes. The beautiful stained glass windows let a myriad of colours stream in, assisted by chandeliers. Apparently these chandeliers have ostrich eggs on them which were to avoid cobwebs by repelling spiders! Might need some ostrich eggs at home!! The floor of this Unesco World Heritage Site is covered with Turkish rugs. The area where the men go to pray was very large and we sat mesmerized as several men performed their prayer ritual.

Next we walked to the Topkapi Palace, where a long line waited, moving very slowly. Instead we opted to visit Hagia Irene, a former Eastern Orthodox Church. It is one of three shrines in Istanbul devoted to God's attributes by the Emperor Constantine. Today it is useed for concerts due to its acoustic qualities.

Next it was onto the Aya Sofya or the Hagia Sophia, is a former Greek Orthodox basilica, later a mosque and now a museum. Throughout history this church was rebuilt three times, the last time in 532. This incredibly beautiful church gleamed with mosaic tiles, many of which are still hidden under plaster to this day. We went to the upper gallery via a series of ramps which were made of white marble slabs, very slippery for sure! Upon leaving we came to a column that had a worn copper facing piereced by a hole. This was known by many names, the weeping or crying column, sweating or perspiring column, or wishing column. According to legend it was blessed by St. Gregory the Miracle Worker and that by putting your finger into the hole it can lead to ailments being cured if your finger comes out moist!! Don't this I really want to know why my finger would be wet after following several hundred people who had already inserted their fingers!!! We found the Aya Sofya an extraordinary place, entrenched in Byzantine history, religious importance and beauty.

Later we went around the corner to a spot recommended by our hotel called the Meat House. Not a very Turkish name but the food was fantastic. We chatted with three young people who were from Australia. They regaled us with details of their unplanned trip while we told them about our "near carpet buying" experience earlier. We shared stories and thoroughly enjoyed their company. After finishing our lentil soup and chicken shish, we ended with apple tea and then went for a walk back to the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofiya. What is beautiful by day is stunning at night! The domes and minarets were lit up against the clear night sky. The fountain in the huge area that separates the two changed from colour to colour. People were strolling around, eating corn off the grill or ice cream. We checked out a few restaurants for our next dinner out then made our way back through the streets to our hotel.

Istanbul is truly magnificent. Was I worried coming here? Maybe a little bit. I think several of our preconceived ideas cloud what this city truly is - a wonderful place, steeped in history, a mecca of worship, and culturally rich. We are looking forward to our cruise along the Bosphorus on Friday afternoon to get a glimpse of this beautiful city from the water.

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Photos

Blue Mosque
Sultanahmet

Serpent Column
or Spiral Column

Comments

[Monique in Motion]

Blue Mosque
Beautiful combination of mosque, flowers, fountains and sky! Best, Monique