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Published: February 9th 2015
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I read somewhere that you should scare yourself once a day.... well, at Salinas Bay in Costa Rica I got a years worth in 2 days....
We came north from Guiones on the Nosara coast to cross the border into Nicaragua. As Salinas Bay was conveniently along the way, it would've been unforgivable not to stop off and check out the legendary kite surfing destination with its famed white sand beaches, turquoise blue water and consistent wind (sixth windiest place in the world, according to the locals), in a massive bay that stretches across the Pacific coast border of Nicaragua and Costa Rica.
The drive north from Nosara showed the contrast that is modern Costa Rica. It commenced as more delightful Nicoya Peninsula - rough dusty roads round sandy headlands, stunning secluded beaches, dry tropical forrest, farms and cute villages, clear rivers to cross and a picture of tranquil rural Tico life.... But as we got nearer the international airport at Liberia and the tourist destinations of Tamarindo and Flamingo Beach we started to pass gated condo developments, billboards in English, mega resorts and sealed roads; it's mass tourism, US style, and we were rushing through...
Salinas Bay
is an 18km dirt road away from the Panamericana highway at La Cruz, the last town before the border, and we arrived at Blue Dream Kitesurfing Resort in the twilight. Blue Dream is a dusty hotel on a dusty road beside a windswept bay... beautiful in that rustic, tumbleweed kind of way...
The owner, Nicola is Italian and has lived kitesurfing since the first kites started to appear in the mid 1990s. He employs a bunch of instructors who are friendly, unkempt and totally committed to kiting. And they can rip up the water with the best of them...
Nichola's first comment, on hearing I wanted to kite was: "have you been out in 40 knots?" Well, no, not really... "you know, today we were using 3.5 metre kites in 42 knot winds..." ...Whew, I'd like to see that... on Utube...
Kitesurfing is much about matching the kite size to the conditions, the stronger the wind, the smaller the kite. In windy Perth I use 8, 10, 12 and 14 metre kites, which handle conditions from 15 to 30 knots. Once I was out in 32 knots with my 8 metre and it was a wild ride...
but 42 knots on a 3.5 metre kite! Now that's another dimension....
After a heroes breakfast (rice and beans) we hit the kite beach.... 'allo, it's windy - trees flattened, stinging sand, tops blown off the chop - it was howling, 40 knots and gusty! But the Blue Dream guys were confident, and I was trusting, so they set up a 5.5 metre North Buzz kite, kitted me with harness, safety leash, impact vest - I had a rashy, specs, hat and little idea...
Launch was interesting, little kites are so fast, in fact, that's their best and worst feature. I discovered, they are so chaotic, and unforgiving - if you're in control, you can fly them anywhere, but if you're not, it all comes unstuck very quickly...
I was launched, took a run out into the bay, got a bit of control, lost it, got it back, and was off and running... after a few runs a couple more kites were launched and the session was unfolding. We zipped back and forth at unprecented pace, fell and recovered, and sweated the worst gusts. I felt sorry for the beginners, taking the reins of a kite for
the first time...
We spent 2 days at Salinas and I kited four long, exhausting and exhilarating sessions. At one point I was underpowered on the Buzz and changed to a 7 metre North Rebel, a strong kite. But the wind picked up to over 40 knots and I was totally overpowered and had to ditch the kite and retrieve it using the safety line - it's that close to the edge in this kind of wind. Another time I was powering along on the Buzz and the wind stopped altogether, for 5 seconds, before resuming its fury... I was totally offguard and almost dragged across the bay. I jumped a little, but worried a lot, that a gust would hit mid jump and take me over a hill. I saw Nicola jump and as he came down he powered the kite to soften the landing, and I swear he went 40 metres sideways before crashing out in a spray.
So kiting Salinas was fun, if unnerving. I'm glad I did it, for the experience of such strong wind. But I'm comforted by the knowledge that Perth's steady and somewhat sedate Fremantle Doctor will be awaiting next kite
season...
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