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Published: November 2nd 2014
During the first 24 hours in Hanoi we booked our trip to Ha Giang province and got our bearings one again around the streets of the old town. We arrived around lunchtime after a two and half hour flight from Kaohsuing and caught a taxi into the city. We were in Hanoi last year but didn't even notice the long colourful mosaic wall which lines the highway into the old town. It is four kilometers in length and highlights the culture and history of the country in a brightly coloured mosaic tile banner.
We were welcomed warmly at the Hanoi Guest house (we stayed there last year) and after dumping our bags set out to rediscover the chaos which is Hanoi old town. Of course we got totally lost - we were trying to find Hoan Kiem Lake but kept heading in the wrong direction. The lake is the centre of the old town - on one side you have the narrow congested tourist streets lined with guesthouses, cafes and shops whilst opposite the streets are wider and lined with faded examples of French built houses, luxury shops and hotels. After the orderliness of Taiwan traffic the pandemonium of the
streets in Hanoi was a little daunting. I actually got hit by a motorbike and ended up with a cut and a bruised shin. We were both not at our best after a 4.30am wake up call that morning.
Once we had got into the swing of just walking into the traffic, not stopping or changing our speed, the traffic just weaved around us and we were able to cross without any problems. With our trip organised and paid for we relaxed over a drink at one of the bia hoi (freshly made draught beer) street side bars which spring up every evening in the Old Quarter. We chose a bar in one of the tiny lanes leading back from the main narrow crossroads where there are dozens of tiny tables and stools set up to sell bia hoi as it was a much quieter area to sit. Over the years we've been coming here these bars have gradually encroached onto the road and sitting there amidst the constant stream of pedestrians, street hawkers and motorbikes was an experience we didn't feel up to in our tired state. Each night we were in Hanoi we ended up going back
to the same little stall and enjoying a snack and a few drinks.
The lane was hung with red lanterns in the evening and as I don't drink beer one of the more expensive bars in the street allowed me to buy a gin and tonic and take it down the street and perch on tiny stools to keep Jerry company whilst he enjoyed his fresh beer. In fact after the first night the staff seemed to always have a fresh drink waiting for me on the bar when I went in! The price of the glasses of fresh beer is gradually creeping up though - it once was only 2,000 dong a glass - but it has now risen to 5,000! Which makes it 25c a glass...... We had dinner that evening in a small cafe nearby where we enjoyed chatting to a retired American couple who live between the US, Hanoi and Bangkok. They began importing Vietnamese embroidered fabric pictures to supplement their retirement income ten years ago. Today the business has grown to such an extent they get the fabrics framed in Bangkok and shipped home to be sold in a purpose built gallery they have
since established in Boston. They have staff now in each city and the venture has far exceeded any original expectations they originally had.
Next day we explored the old streets - dozens of them, each one selling the one type of produce. Eg one street sells items for sewing - buttons, sequins, cottons etc - all in bulk plastic bags. There are actually 36 official guild streets and they each sell a different product. One street is lined with silk shops, another only sells plumbing supplies and yet another only sells paper products. They are lots of fun to explore and as well you have the endless tourist shops selling embroidery, vibrantly coloured laquer items, propaganda posters, T shirts.......
That evening we had a lovely meal and a drink or two at the lovely Avalant Restaurant, set on the roof of the big building which overlooks the lake and a big busy roundabout with a fountain in the centre. It was a fabulous view and we booked a table there again for after our return from Ha Giang. The next morning after greeting our driver Tuin, we left the city for our six day trip to Ha Giang.
Upon our return to Hanoi we did more of the same. We had considered doing an overnight trip to one of the villages near Hanoi but after our wonderful experience in Ha Giang we decided not to do it. We had never visited the new city and the area around West Lake so we caught a taxi down to the enormous square which fronts Ho Chi Minh's impressive mausoleum but due to the 60th anniversary of the end of the French Colonisation celebrations the previous weekend the square was still closed to public access. The streets of the city were still decorated with garden beds of red and yellow flowers, over the streets were hung large light displays which glowed with red daisies of an evening and houses and shops were strung with the Vietnamese flag.
We had no intention of revisiting Ho Chi Minh which was as well because he was holidaying in Russia having his annual facelift. From there we walked through the streets until we reached the causeway leading to West Lake. Unfortunately the leaning pagoda on it's shores was closed for the next couple of hours and though we planned on returning we never
did make it back. We enjoyed exploring the back streets which lead off the enormous expanse of West Lake, debated about hiring a bike to ride around the ircumference but soon decided in favour of a coffee and salad roll at one of the lovely French delicatessens which dot the streets. This area of Hanoi is crammed with upmarket shops and chic cafes - a real contrast to the old town. We checked out the loos at the gorgeous Intercontinental and Sheraton hotels (it's always great to have fresh towels and hand cream when you use these 5* facilities!) before catching a taxi to a shopping area just outside of the main part of the old town. We spent an enjoyable couple of hours there shopping with much less pressure from sales people then those in the main tourist area. This resulted in a visit to the post office to post a parcel of the odd bits and pieces we had purchased in the previous month.
I did want to revisit the Temple of Literature though. It's a really peaceful place and the grounds were full of young uni students who were having their graduation photos taken there. The
girls were really sweet, they wanted their photos taken with us and we were happy to oblige. They were all dressed in traditional Ao Dai dresses (a very elegant floor length narrow skirted dress worn under a split tunic) and prior to their photo sessions groups of them were sitting on the benches at the park entrance taking rollers out of their hair and redoing their makeup. The temple was founded in 1070 and is dedicated to Confucius. it also became the site of Vietnam's first university the same year and honours Vietnam's finest scholars - hence the reason university graduation photographs are taken there.
We walked home and stopped to visit the Women's Museum. On a previous visit it had been in a state of renovation so the displays etc were very disorganised. We thoroughly enjoyed this visit though - particularly the video about the many women street hawkers. These women are trying to support their families by selling goods - flowers, fruit or T shirts - to tourists and locals alike and struggle to make any sort of income. At night they sleep in dorms they pay 25cents a bed and travel back to spend a day
with their children fortnightly. Once again a lesson in our lucky we are to live in Australia. The museum also included colourful and well set out displays of the daily life of the women in the many different minority groups. It was a very interesting and informative display
For our last two evenings we ate at the highly rated restaurant at the Essence Hotel. The food was served on beautiful tableware in a very serene environment and it was not particularly expensive. Hanoi has certainly got much busier since we first came in 2001 but it still hasn't lost it's charm despite the large number of tourists who come here. There is still a real feel of traditional living very close to the tourist areas and it's great that it is one country where you do not see the big yellow 'M' - though most of the other chains are here now. Once there was only one ATM in the city now of course they are everywhere. They still unfortunately only give out small amounts of cash per transaction was 5 million dong which translates to only about AUD $280. As a finale to what is still one of
Bamboo bird cages
The birds were all singing loudlyour favourite cities we both enjoyed a massage on our last afternoon in the city. Hanoi - great fun! We will be back I'm sure...
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Cheryl
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Ahhhh, the memories
Your blog brought back so many fabulous memories Linese. I spent a total of 7 days there - four at the start of the cycle and another three between visiting Burma & Lao, so I got to see and enjoy so much of this fabulous city. It is the one Asian city that I would love to return to. Cxxx