Underground city: like a giant rabbit warren

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I'd not realised just how ill my husband was when writing last night's blog, but during the night it because quite clear, he was feverish as well has retching with a jippy belly. I thought he might need a doctor. However, I walked down to the pharmacy (getting into town only takes 10 minutes once you know the way) and the pharmacist despite saying he only knew a little english was very helpful. I'd say he knew a lot of english, enough to discuss all symptoms and I went back to our hotel with three boxes, each with hand written instructions.

Glyn had not slept much in the night, so left him to sleep whilst I read. By midday I realised that he was not going to be able to get out and thought that at least I should pop out for a while as there was nothing I could do.

But Glyn did not want to miss out and took some imodium. He thought he would be ok. We drove to Nevsehir and because there's no signposts, we drove all over Nevsehir. This town is not small, it has a population of around 100,000, so getting lost there is particularly infuriating. Naturally no one we asked could give directions.

So again I eventually gave in to data roaming and used google maps to get on our way. Through dusty farmland and deserted hillside towns we eventually made it to Kaymakli which is where one of the underground cities is located. It is not as big as Derinkuyu, which we'd originally wanted to go to, but quieter which was a better option with Glyn still so ill.

As always with all tourist sites, there's a bunch of guys outside desperate to be your guide. We stood in the wonderfully cool entrance as one guy insisted that there were 4000 rooms and we would surely get lost forever. Glyn was feeling so ill, we really didn't have the patience for the sell, let alone being able to have a guide, we needed to move about as and when was good for Glyn.

Kaymakli is said to have housed thousands of people from the 6th to 9th centuries. With 5 levels that cover about 1 sq mile, it is thought to have 8 levels. It's not for the claustrophobic, not a jot.

Even at my height of just over 5 foot, some of those tunnels were low and I was squatting so low that my bum was on my heels. I had a small back pack for camera gear, but with so many low tunnels and tight steep steps, I got sick of it dragging on the ceiling as I stooped, so I wore it in front of me. Glyn is 6 foot 3 inches, this was difficult for him regardless of being ill as well.

But I'm so glad we went, it was amazing, like a giant rabbit warren with so many rooms. Some of the entrances were mere holes in the walls and barely recognisable as doorways that we squished through, continuing along this extensive labyrinth.

We just about didn't get lost - there were blue and red arrows and we guessed that the former meant the route inwards and the latter outwards although this didn't always hold true. There were plenty of dark rooms for Glyn to steady himself as other tourists went past. It wasn't too crowded but there was no room for back-tracking either, once you are in there is no space to turn back. Never mind swinging a cat, a cat had no room to swing a flea.

After an hour or so we came back to the entrance and Glyn really was in such a bad way that there was no option but to head back to our hotel. We stopped briefly on the way back so that I could take some panoramic shots of Gorome, I bought Glyn some juice that he quickly vomited. When we got back, he managed to sleep a while and so did I. As much as we both hate not being able to go out and see stuff in this amazing area, it's also nice to relax and we couldn't pick a nicer spot to do so.

In the evening I walked up to the sunset spot which is about 10 minutes uphill. I missed my hubby being with me but I think I got some good photos and enjoyed the atmosphere.

Afterwards I walked into town, some of the route was rather dark and I jumped out of my skin when some guy spat behind me. I feel pretty safe in Goreme but I have read stories of single women being attacked in Turkey, the worrying reaction from officials was that as they were women on their own, what did they expect? So I kept to myself and walked quickly, only stopping to fuss a ginger cat, help a grey kitten get into a bag of discarded crisps and fuss another black and white kitten. I found a store to buy fruit juice for Glyn and a couple of bottles of beer for me that were 4 tl each. I also got some tinned stuffed vine leaves for tea, with Glyn not eating for over 24 hours, I've not bothered myself apart from the hotel breakfast and an icecream.

I so hope Glyn gets better soon, we have an overnight bus to Fethiye tomorrow and he's very unhappy. I'm sitting on the terrace with my beer listening to the town, which like all tourist towns, comes alive at night with the kind of music that no one listens to apart from when they are on holiday.

Kaymakli:

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Comments

[Stacey Conley]

Turkish delights
I love the caves- so very cool. Feel better Glyn