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Wednesday evening: I am tonight, adding on a blog in honor of two of our best friends, Keith & Danielle Kelley.
First welcome home Keith from your El Camino walk. This is a spiritual pilgrimage walk that takes weeks and weeks to do in Spain, and is done by foot, around 700 km. Keith researched it, and talked about it for 6 years till he did it with his daughter Tanya, who stayed for a smaller portion of the walk. The rest he did by himself.
It took blood, sweat & tears, determination, and well, family support, and in the end, Keith's inner strength & physical endurance to do it, and his perseverance paid off. This walk for many is something that gets into your blood; while it may be a bucket list for some, it can end up owning you, taking every bit of your endurance, courage, patience, and fortitude. And I have to say reading his blogs were a daily event. It's physically, mentally and emotionally draining to do this harsh walk over some steep terrain, being tested by the sun/heat, rain, bugs, wildlife, and walking with strangers & sharing accommodations with them. And talk about putting your feet in a meat grinder daily.
In the end, Keith, you did it. He did it on his own terms with lots of soul searching. I'm sure Keith (if you or Danielle are reading these blogs) you have come home somewhat tired, feeling beat up, but exhilarated and with a heart and memory full of experience that will forever change you; both of you. I am adding this blog in last minute after a day of sun, fun and well, nothing extraordinary compared to their journey. So for god sakes I hope you will forgive me if I have made a spelling/grammar error. For those of you that wish to share this story of Keith's final blog for his trip, please copy this link:
http://www.travelblog.org/North-America/Mexico/Quintana-Roo/Isla-Mujeres/blog-848925.html
I love a blog that has 3 things.
1) fun or funny (keeps you engaged) with a sense of humor (we all require this)
2. informative (we want to know what others see on their travels/vacation and how it affects or changes them)
3) heartfelt where the writer shares a bit of him/herself and you get to see how a journey can change your way of thinking. Where we let our guard down (I felt this way on my trip to Paris.)
Keith managed to do them all.
When I read his final blog which is why I copied this in, I was crying; literally tears were flowing down my face as I tried to gracefully wipe them away. And it so happens we were watching the men's final of Wimbledon. So Al looks over and see tears streaming down my face and he's like, "Sal are you ok? It's just tennis"! I had a loss of words to say how his final blog of a 6-7 week journey hit me. When he wrote about seeing Danielle's late sister Michelle encouraging him on his final leg, well...ahem, very moving.
And when you read below where Keith crossed the so-called finish line of his journey picturing all his deceased loved ones waving him on, well, very touching. Keith has endured loss; loss of his father (his dad would affectionately me that "Quyon gal" & I thought the world of him), and the loss of his brother David, a gentlemen among men). I was always so welcomed into the Kelley family, and they made me feel like one of their own. And Danielle, Keith's wife is one of my best friends in the world had her own journey while Keith was away. Not easy to be apart after 3 decades of marriage and having to "re-create" yourself and read about your husband's emotional & physical journey without being there to help, love or care for him except from afar. Good for the two of you. I think you two warrant an "El Camino" tattoo or a T-shirt?
So if you will, here is Keith's final blog on his 500 km walk on the El Camino. I tried to paste it in from his blog. I hope I didn't miss a thing Keith.
The 10k will be a mixed bag today - some climbs and descents - natural for about 5k and then a 5k walk into the outskirts of Santiago and on into the city centre. I will try to take in every view - hear every sound.
I come across one last snail - I ask her to say goodbye to and thank everyone/ everything for me - the stunning variety and beauty of the birds, insects, animals and fauna along the Camino have been a very pleasant surprise - the snails especially along the path have provided me with much bemusement - so many varieties, sizes, shapes and colours - so many. She says she will be happy to do so - with the exception of the cows - they step on and kill thousands of her brothers and sisters weekly - she has no use for them at all - I say I understand and that in fact I too have a few bones to pick with them as well. I ask her if I can take her picture - she says ok if I get her left side - her good side. I do. Picture attached.
Outskirts of Santiego
For the first 5k I see no other pilgrims - I am starting to think I took an alternative route by mistake. I keep stopping and checking my trusty John Brierley's "a pilgrim's guide to the Camino de Santiago" to insure I am on the right path. I am - I think. I should have taken a guide book 101 course.
It is threatening rain - if it does I will not even pull out my Sail "on sale special" smurf blue raincoat or Sea to Summit orange/black backpack rain cover. I am defiant - COME ON RAIN - LET ME HAVE IT - GIVE ME YOUR BEST SHOT - It doesn't even try.
Out of nowhere I see three large animals prowling at the top of the next hill. Are these the last of the famous pilgrim eating wild dogs? Really - now - of all times - I can't be late - can't go back. My heart races as I plan my escape route - none - I could not outrun my dear snail friends if I had to let alone three wild dogs - I keep walking slowly - the dogs approach - I keep my head down and don't look at them - I try to act calm - I have my trek poles in a death grip ready for action - I hope they can not smell fear. They sniff a bit and then leave - only big strays - thank God - she has come through again.
I carry on. I pass the outskirts of the airport. I can hear the planes - can't see any. I pass some huge tv studio lots - both are mentioned in the guide book - I am on the right path.
I walk into Monte del Gozo and past the huge monument erected commemorating the visit of Pope John Paul II - it is huge - I hope he left them a substantial thank you gift - I do not stop - I do not take a picture - I have more important business.
Line up for Compostela
Typical street
I carry onto a series of old wooden slatted bridges only 5 feet wide -old metal hand railings- hovering 40 feet over massive highways and rail tracks - are you serious Camino - trucks/cars and trains wizz by underneath vibrating the slats under my feet - my heart beats at dangerous levels ( actually I think they are all dangerous at my age) as I hear the slats squeak under my weight - there are even a few missing slats - I do not look down - I can't use my trek poles as I fear one will fall through - I pray no more slats break as I cross over - now would not be a good time to have to be heli-rescued- I carry on and over - WHAT FEAR OF HEIGHTS - IS THIS THE BEST YOU GOT - I regret yelling this instantly.
I walk on and all of a sudden there it is - the city sign SANTIAGO on the outskirts of town - it is across a busy highway on a small island of land surrounded by other highways - inaccessible.
My eyes start to well up - I wipe away the tears.
Back of cathedral - I think
I look over again - I can now make out a huge canopy tent behind the sign- I didn't see that there originally ? - and there appear to be people under it - could it be our 6 Irish angels from Cork - I try to see through my tears - I start to make out some faces..
I see my father, grandmother, brother David - they are cheering me on, I see Mo and Jeanne as well - It doesn't make sense. I see Anne - she is raising a glass of red wine - I see other friends, aunts and uncles, relatives long passed. I see Michelle - she is leading the chorus - everyone is cheering and telling me to finish it - you can do it!
I wipe more tears from my eyes. I look back - They are gone.
But wait - now I can make out Danielle. I see Tanya - she is waving one trek pole (our sign for everything is alright) & Shane - Zachary on his shoulders,James and Conita, Karin & Eric - I see Keidon climbing a bean stalk with Jack and Alexava sitting perched up on a Gruffalo's shoulder - their ok Grandpa she yells, really nice - And our Gabriella, in a pink body suit doing a pirouette. Go grandpa
go I hear.
image
There are hundreds of people cheering - mom, Richard and Debbie, aunt Ruth other family & friends' familiar faces. Glen and Carla are yelling - St. Hubert's - Thursday ? I yell back - sure - Think I'll try the ribs.
I wipe away more tears and when I look back again they are all gone too - never there? There is no one there. No canopy. Just the city sign across the highway - cars zooming by.
I compose myself - give myself a shake - I realize there are in fact hundreds of Pilgrims walking by. I take a deep breath and start to follow. I get maybe 200 meters and stop. Someone is whispering in my ear - at first I don't recognize the voice and then it comes to me clearly. It is you kind reader - my constant companion. I now clearly hear what you have to say and realize you are correct.
I turn back and walk back 200 meters. I wait until I see no traffic and I hobble over to the island. I set up my iPad
images my new favourite meal
and step back. I take the perfect selfie - the ultimate selfie - the selfie of all selfies - I finally did it - I'm the selfie King of the World.
And It is at that exact moment I realize My Camino is finished - complete - over. I made it to Santiago. I could not walk the entire 800 km - I did what I could - 500 will do just fine thanks. As my fellow pilgrims Mark and Debbie pointed out : "The Camino has been there for a thousand years or more. It will still be there a few more years yet. This is supposed to be something we will cherish when we have lost our teeth and are sitting in a rocking chair talking to our great grandkids. Not something to do over a feeling of guilt or failure."
They are right - it will be there in the future if It calls me back - it will be there long after I am gone.
The Camino is different for everyone yet the same - I believe we each get what we need from
it - nothing more - nothing less. For the devout Catholic Christian the significance of the religious aspects of the walk must be overwhelming - quenching a great thirst for spiritual experience - this is not lost on me.
For me though the churches and other religious establishments take second stage to the Camino itself. The Camino gave me more than I could handle - all that I wanted - physically and emotionally - exactly what I needed - no more - no less.
I walk into Santiago following the yellow arrow and scallop shell way markers - I will miss them too.It is another 4km to the city centre - there are now hundreds and hundreds of pilgrims coming and going like ants on an anthill. I hear bagpipe music luring us into the square - I enter the square - very much like the beginning of my walk - there is no fanfare - I don't even think I walked past the live webcam - I hope none of you got up early.
There are over a thousand people mulling about. I feel lost / confused. Two young Asian
7:30 mass - money shot - swinging of the incense
girls see my confusion and ask "pilgrim's office." I say yes and like so many other times on this trip two strangers go out of their way to guide me over to my destination - they smile, say congratulations and disappear.
I line up for over an hour- I am in line with other exhausted, bewildered Pilgrims from all over the world - guides speaking several languages move us along - it is my turn - I hand over my Pilgrim's passport and receive my Compostela - it's official - I pay the 2€ for the protective tube.
It's over.
Note from Sal:
I was moved by this blog, and hope you were too. I can't wait to see you Keith & Danielle and hear about your journey.
Signing off now; nowhere near any El Camino except in my heart, after reading Keith's blogs. And love to you too Danielle; loved your emails of your journey too that you felt you could share with me.
PS to follow Keith's journey, please click here: http://www.travelblog.org/Bloggers/Kelprigrim1/
Love you both, Keith & Danielle.
Sal & Al
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Home and Away
Bob Carlsen
Keith was our Blogger of the Week on 29 June...
the Moderators recognized his efforts and wonderful writing and can only agree with you! That's amazing you are friends. By the way, you are also in the running for BoW this week. Good luck! Oh, for those who want to read Keith's blogs go to: http://www.travelblog.org/Bloggers/Kelprigrim1/. Another great Camino blogger is http://www.travelblog.org/Bloggers/Why-Walk/.